23,948 Garden Web Discussions | Vegetable Gardening
Coleman does recommend a shallower box -- (I think it's 8 inches in the front, 12
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elisa .... mine is about 15" front and 30" the back.Probably I will burry it 2 to 3 inches.
I will have two shelves inside. The back shelf will be about 20"H and one in the middle about 10"H(sort of like wooden steps). Under the shelves will be used to store things like empty pots/trays and also put trays to germinate seeds. I like deeper box better. It has more air volume and the temperatures don't fluctuate as fast. Plus it can accommodate some taller seedlings as well.
Sounds like how our fall started over here in Maryland. Especially the part about wanting to calm the allergies and green things up. It did finally turn into quite a nice fall here, with some warm days, some cold days, some sunny days and some rainy days. The good thing about the weather is it is variable. It always changes eventually!
Seyson, you're rain and drizzle all the time, aren't you?
I'm just north of SF in the wine country (Sonoma, NOT Napa!). Very Mediteranian.
But this year is even dryer and warmer than I've ever remembered!
I hope we aren't in for another drought! Nancy
Zackey .... those are called bulbil. You can the escapes after certain stage and keep them in water for a while. The bulbils will mature(like wild onion bulbils). Then you plant those and you'll get small single clove garlic. If you plant them again, then you will get normal garlic.
Garlic bulbils don't always produce rounds in the first year. I used to think this too because of everything I had read. Last fall I planted some bulbils and most of them that I planted made whole bulbs this summer but they were small. Below is a link showing the small bulbs.
sweetlydark- How big are the bulbs in the picture and do they have individual cloves or not? Where were they planted (inside or outside)? Were they in pots and if so, how big were the pots? How much light were they getting? I know it's a lot of questions but the more info you provide the better.
Rodney
Here is a link that might be useful: My Bulbil Experiment
on the root ball. The more you can loosen the roots, the better. But ,of course, you should take care to not break anymore roots than you have to. Put them in really good soil and water in well. If you live in Zone 5, you probably ought to provide some protection from cold too, like floating row cover, cloches or a cold frame. I suspect the plants were marked down drastically because it's very late for them to go into the ground and make much to eat this year. As the weather gets colder, the plants almost stop growing, if they don't freeze to death. But I live in Zone 8, so I could certainly be wrong! Good luck. You have very little to lose, so it's cheap experience.
Thank you, donnabaskets!
I'm actually on the outer banks of North Carolina right now, helping a friend with a very small garden. It is SO fun to plant things in this zone (I think it's 8) that I know won't freeze, and may not even vernalize. Back home it's snowing!
It almost looks like a Lemon cucumber crossed with the plants that the supplier was saving for seed. Lemon cukes have a shape similar (not quite the same) as the round one in your pic but obviously the color is way off for a Lemon cuke.
And there's only one way to find out if it's edible: taste it. There's no point in waiting around as cucumbers are edible at nearly any stage.
Rodney
Before I initially I posted this thread, I had done a google search for "camel manure fertilizer". I had read that it is very popular in Australia. But I just now did a google search for "camel manure fertilizer UAE" and got this info from a veterinary site here in UAE:
"Dogs that are walked on the central grassy reservations pick up lots of ticks. We believe this is because the lawns in Abu Dhabi are fertilized with camel manure that includes loads of ticks..."
So I am giving up on that plan! d
Hmm. Not too surprising about ticks. But of course if you're going to dig the manure in, not sure what difference it would make. For the lawns, I'm pretty sure it isn't dug in. I think ticks require blood feeding at each several-month stage of their life-cycle to survive. So I would think if you got some older, dried up patties, you might be good to go.
Instead of using hose sprayer, I use the garden pump sprayer. Then can also add your favorite recipe for them aphids. This way I can do it surgically with less amount of water and more effectively. This past season I had major aphid problem on just my eggplants. I used Sevin dust. NO GOOD. Spray was better.
With only 4 plants you could easily take a bucket of soapy water to them and wash the leaves by slooshing them in the bucket and cleaning the leaves with your hands or a sponge. There's really no need for sprayers or chemicals on 4 plants.
I have found great differences in leaf shapes and in taste from different packets of seeds. If you find a variety you like, then stick with that seed. If you don't like it, yank it up and try different seed. What is in the photo doesn't look like sylvetta to me -- my sylvetta has always looked almost feathery with very small, deeply indented leaves.
Also, if you really like a variety you can let it go to flower (the flowers are also edible) and to seed, and just leave it alone and you'll probably end up with a self seeded patch of arugula you like. (works most of the time -- though sometimes it doesn't come true.)
If you're buying seedlings, just grab a leaf while no one is looking and taste it to see if you like it :)
Johnny's selected seeds has a number of different kinds of arugula, with descriptions of each, and their seed is true to form every time (I'm had some companies where one year it's great, the next year not.)
Yes, there are different breeds. Generally the more lobed the hotter. None is really "better": in a dish that requires spice, or for pesto, the lobed ones are best. Even for mixing with tomatoes lobed is best. For straight salads we mostly prefer the milder rocket. You can make it milder with more watering, partial shade, and growing season.
Lobed varieties are smaller than cultivated varieties, but culture matters just as much as variety when it comes to size. The very same bed and very same pack will give me different size of plants depending on season and watering.
EARWIG is often overlooked. Because they are snicky. They come out at night like slugs and snails but the are smart and run away and hide. They hide in similar fashion to slugs in the cracks, under rocks/stones, ...during the day. They eat much bigger holes than flea beetle. Also they start with the parts of the plants close to the ground(like slog/snail) while flea beetles eat the top most leaves. Of all these insects, slugs damage is more severe. A big fat slug can eat a whole seeding in one sitting.
Another thing is that flee beetles love peppers and eggplant, tomatillo .... all in the nightshade family. FB damage is only critical when seedlings are very small and not when on the established plant.
One more thing: Slugs have chewing/eating pattern similar to caterpillars. The will not usually eat in hole or circular pattern.
This post was edited by seysonn on Wed, Nov 6, 13 at 5:53
Glad I found this thread, hiding (ahem) in a post about rain.
I've just recently become enthralled with the idea of growing corn for grain. I"d want it for polenta mostly.
Is there a specific grain miller anyone can recommend? Researching them was overwhelming.
It shouldn't need any protection in your zone, except maybe from hungry deer (I've heard they're all over the D.C. suburbs). One easy thing to do is clip branches from one of the Christmas trees that get put out for recycling, and lay them over the spinach for a bit of protection as we go deeper into winter.
That was a good method, Elisa. Thank you. I did similarly with my tarragons.