23,948 Garden Web Discussions | Vegetable Gardening
Hi there, You say that it is your radishes turning yellow, I had the same problem a mini crop of cherry tomatoes, i Tried to solve the problem by taking the plants out with all the soil still around the roots and added more potting soil with topsoil, sometimes i have found that the compost and the potting soil is too strong for the seedlings too handle ( to acidic) or even just not enough nutrition. But i managed to save the plants, well most of them at least, some of them were too far gone, and what i would do is also too secure the roots a bit more, once sprouted i would gently compact the soil around the base too better absorption of water and minerals. And also I would try a small shade net as well from say 9 in the morning till about 1500, then remove so it still gets sun but doesn't burn to a crisp or just get too much sun. Maybe you've tried everything i mentioned but everything has worked for me in the past. So goodluck, hope you have success with this.
If your in clay I would suggest going up as opposed to tilling deeper.
Best thing, ADD ORGANIC MATTER!!!
Whatever you have that will break down and be ready for spring can be added, assuming it will not throw off your ph. I would stay away from the branches unless they are smaller than about 1/2" dia, otherwise they could take too long to break down.
Normally I add leaves, manure, and ash -till that in about 6" deep then add a layer of leaves / mulch on top. In the spring I till that top layer in and plant.
Good luck
If I were to do it , I would take all the top good portion out. (pile it on the side)Then dig inside the box , a good shovel depth. Then add compost, About 6 to 8 bags. and mix everything real good. Then return whatever you took out. Add about another 4 to 6 bags of compost/manur and mix it all together. Clay when amended with organic matter is good.
If you do this. you will have more than enough depth for just about any vegetables.
In general, you need a minimum of 10 to 12 inches of good mixture.
With a 4'x4' it should not be very hard to do.
Interesting. You have chosen the perfect variety to work with, because although Merit was bred by Asgrow and released in 1961, it is now owned by Monsanto. A re-selected strain will take a few years, but if you start growing a few plants just for seed and select for top characteristics, you can do it. Merit is a Golden Bantam type, most likely hybridized for earliness and rust resistance. Several seed companies sell improved strains of Golden Bantam, so you could even do your own crossing by interplanting the two varieties. Good luck!
As stated already, uniformity is important to many growers. I have planted an op yellow meal corn that has some stalks pollinating 2 or 3 weeks before the last ones. I had a very nice acorn squash volunteer that produced nice ones the next year, but since then things have deteriated into orange ones and long bullet shaped ones.
PN & Fusion, thanks for steering me clear of Beauregards as I'd much rather have good tasting really sweet potatoes. Beauregards are the mainstay at nurseries around here in Spring, they must be like hybrid tomatoes - look great, easy growing, but taste bland?
Wayne, thanks for the tip on suppliers too. I'll also continue to scan the produce sections of stores here while the harvest iron is hot. Of the 2 I've already bought the Jewel Sweets are sweeter than the Red Garnets. I had never heard of either one till seeing them at the market. But then again sweetness has a lot to do with growing conditions and soil types.
I had a feeling you were in Australia. :) When you say 25-30 degrees, I assume you mean Celsius, if so then that would be 77-80*F. Those temps are fine to plant watermelons outside. Just as long as the lows don't drop below 10*C. Soil temp also plays a factor but I assume the soil is sufficiently warmed. So plant them outside if you want. Just harden your seedlings off before planting.
As for starting plants inside with lights, the length of time seems okay (keep it consistent!) but the light needs to be directly above the leaves of the plants. As close as possible without burning the leaves. A fan blowing gently on the seedlings also helps to make them stockier and less leggy.
And if I were you, I'd do a search here about using peat pots for starting seeds. In theory they sound like a good idea (you plant the whole pot and don't have to disturb the plants' roots) but in practice they don't seem to be. Lots of people have had problems with them. The main issues are that they dry out too fast when starting seeds. They restrict the plants roots when planted whole in the garden because they don't compost quickly enough. And if the rim of the pots aren't completely buried below ground then the peat wicks away the moisture from the roots and dries them out. So cut or tear away the peat pot before planting.
Rodney
Technically, plants do produce cholesterol...but practically, it's a rather insignificant amount when it comes to human consumption and humans can't uptake them efficiently.
Long story short...technically, yes...realistically to human consumption and intake, too insignificant to even count it as a source.
Plant cholesterol is rather ignorable compared to the good they do, especially the role of some other plant compounds in blocking uptake or otherwise helping the body pass other "bad" cholesterol from meat sources. Just a fyi...
I prefer fall gardening!!!
Two things will make it even better. Here in Los Angeles, it seems that any fall patch will become flea beetle haven and hurt summer eggplants. As I expand fall patch, I'm cutting down on next summer's grow area. That's sad!!! Fall seedling is SLOW to start from seeds, at least for me, so I usually have to buy them. Only if I could overcome ...
We addressed that too - sounds like drainage trenches/pipe are in order, and raised beds would help. Up to the OP as to what he wants to put in the raised beds, sounds like the soil he is digging out of the trenches won't be good enough, he'll have to add something to it. IMHO, organic matter and maybe some bought topsoil, in yours, sand, but it's his decision. I hope we could help, he's got a lot of decisions to make and a lot of work to do to fix the situation.
Sorry if this has already been mentioned, I didn't completely read all the post.
My yard was always wet and there was nowhere to drain it to, new construction all around me has built up their yards running everything to mine. I planted a series of willow trees specifically placed in the lowest areas.
It completely solved the issue. Before I would have standing water for 2-3 weeks after a good rain, and the soil would remain wet for most of the summer. Now it's gone within a day or so.
Not to mention, the weeping willow was growing about 10 to 15 feet per year, and the corkscrew willows that line the south property line now tower over the box elders, so I can finally cut down those overgrown weeds.
The foot candles charts available are usually found in greenhouse publications since that is where fc measurements are applicable - indoors under artificial/supplemental lighting.
And unfortunately few of them I'm aware of address many vegetables since they aren't a really common GH crop, at least not to the degree of many other plants. Although some of the hydroponics websites and texts may offer more vegetable details.
Keep in mind with outdoor sunlight it isn't just the fc/lumens that is important but the color spectrum of exposure. That is why diffuse or shaded sunlight isn't as effective as its spectrum is quite different.
Dave
Here is a link that might be useful: Clemson Univ - Indoor Light requirement
Thanks you all for your valuable comments.
Dave,
As for my cross posting, frankly I was not aware about cross posting prohibition guidelines. Can you please guide me to the link so that I could read it thoroughly. I tried finding the link by myself but couldn't happen to locate it.
Just one question, if a problem/question, like this current thread under discussion, is actually related to multiple forums, is it still not allowed to post it?
Thanks
Below is a link showing how to build your own EarthTrainer. It's a self-watering container made from plastic storage totes.
And here is the link to the main page: TomatoFest EarthTrainer
Edit: I should mention that I haven't built one of these nor have I grown in them so I'm not sure how well they work.
Rodney
Here is a link that might be useful: EarthTrainer Construction Guide
This post was edited by theforgottenone1013 on Thu, Oct 24, 13 at 15:41
OK. The only way to deal with this problem is to eradicate the rats.
@ OP: If you are against using bait/poison, How about a LIVE rat trap (aka have a heart). Like the one shown in the picture below. Years ago I got the instruction from internet and make one myself. But if money is not the object you can buy them at the nurseries.
RAT MOTEL; THEY CAN CHECK IN BUT CANNOT CHECK OUT.loll
I've been seeking to get some poultry, but have hesitated cause the mice are attracted to the seeds they can be dealt with it.
This post was edited by ZaraMorant on Wed, Oct 30, 13 at 9:20
Cotton seed oil is just more saturated. Sunflower seeds oil should be close enough. They are originally solid.
The oil itself and the soap do not destroy the spores. They just create a film/layer that spores cannot get in. It is the same idea with milk and water. So, IMO, low fat milk is better that skim, because of the oil's film and sealing effect.
Neem Oil, I think,, does the same when it comes to PM. But it also repels some insects. Again,, I don;t think it kills anything .
Thanks for the link, danzeb. Checked it out and at the bottom of the page, 3 veg oils are mentioned: cottonseed, soy and canola. It looks as though cottonseed is better at controlling insect pests than the other 2.
If I can't find cottonseed oil for sale here, I think I will try the canola and will post the results. Cheers.