23,822 Garden Web Discussions | Vegetable Gardening

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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

In an effort to try to get this back on track, I would pass on the 2 back pack sprayers simply because of the weight and cumbersome issues. When something is difficult and uncomfortable to us we tend to skip using it when needed.

Of the remaining 3 I would choose the Chapin 21220XP Premire 2-Gallon Pro Poly Sprayer for the following reasons:

1) readily available replacement parts with reasonable prices
2) easy to clean anti-clog filter as that is the most common problem with any sprayer
3) the brass vs. poly components
4) big mouth opening makes the base easy to clean too
5) adjustable spray patterns on nozzle
6) clear color of tank makes tracking liquid levels easier than with the blue tank model

Dave

    Bookmark     September 16, 2013 at 12:17PM
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ltilton

Dave - I have a 2 gal sprayer like the Chapin that I use for herbicides. In terms of weight and cumbersome issues, I find the backpack spray much easier to carry around and use, once it's on my back, despite being heavier.

Lugging around 16# by a handle is cumbersome indeed and hurts my hands. The strap that comes with it is worse than useless. I ended up this summer fastening the thing to a dolly and hauling it around that way.

Backpack sprayer also reaches a lot higher for spraying fruit trees.

    Bookmark     September 16, 2013 at 12:54PM
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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

This is a discussion forum, not a place where you can order seeds. If you are looking for people to trade seeds with then please go to the various Seed Exchange forums here.

And for Gourd seeds the Gourd Gardening forum also has a seed trading forum.

Thanks.

Here is a link that might be useful: Vegetable Seed Exchanges

    Bookmark     September 16, 2013 at 12:21PM
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nancyjane_gardener(Zone 8ish North of San Francisco in the "real" wine country)

Perry- NICE!!!!! I got a leaf mulcher from a yard sale for free! It's been my neighbor's best friend for 5 years! LOL Nancy

    Bookmark     September 13, 2013 at 9:51PM
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stoic

after a lot of help her3e, thanks everyone, and looking at a lot of reviews and youtube videos i decided to for now go with the Earthwise TC70001 .. just 100 bucks which is less than half of what i planned on so worth a shot especially since it won't be to break new ground but to mix new stuff we'll be putting in, which i am beginning to stock pile now .. little every month till we have enough in a few months just in time for the new garden season

    Bookmark     September 16, 2013 at 12:14PM
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Deborah-SC(8a)

Hi. I live in Gilbert, SC - about 2 hours south of you. I sowed my carrot & rutabaga seeds about a month ago. I had absolutely no problem with germination. I kept the soil constantly moist -- I sometimes misted them 4 times per day. Root crops do not transplant - you need to direct sow. I have heard of covering with burlap or a shade cloth until germination - keeps our hot, hot sun from drying out the seed for those who cannot mist more than 2 times per day. Good luck with your second sowing!

    Bookmark     September 15, 2013 at 10:53PM
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woohooman San Diego CA zone 10a

Meg: Good deal! Just to let you know, you don't need an elaborate setup and lights to get going. Just a standard shoplight fixture and a couple tubes.--- around 30 bucks total. I use T8 6500K "daylight" tubes. No need to have actual expensive GROW lights. That, and a couple of shelves, and you're good to go.

Deborah's right about root crops needing to be direct sown. Onions, however, actually do better as starts IMO. Also, most root crops are pretty early DTM. So, holding off a month or so before sowing should still get you a crop. Plus, they hold up to light frosts pretty well.

Check with your local county extension for a planting calendar.

Good luck.

Kevin

    Bookmark     September 16, 2013 at 4:03AM
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yukkuri_kame(Sunset 19 / USDA 9)

I've never used them as a dye, but once the berries are dried, just putting several in room temperature water will create a dark purple 'tea'. I would guess hot water would work even better. No idea if this will work as dye - just saying I don't think the color is real hard to extract.

    Bookmark     September 15, 2013 at 10:02PM
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seysonn(8a WA/HZ 1)

Don't need to extract color. Just dry and powder them and soak is warm water. The solution can be used to color. But I don't how stable the color will be.

    Bookmark     September 16, 2013 at 1:40AM
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wayne_5 zone 6a Central Indiana

You have to wait the normal period to get watermelons that are any good. It also helps to have kept the plant to no more than 2 melons on late rounds....important to put that energy into one or two melons rather than a litter. You can also cover the vines on a frosty night to prolong the season.

    Bookmark     September 15, 2013 at 5:18PM
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chaman(z7MD)

Wait till tendril shows change in color to brown.Remove the shoots if any seen growing.

    Bookmark     September 15, 2013 at 6:52PM
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veggiecanner(Id 5/6)

I am using some raddishes to add hummus.

    Bookmark     September 14, 2013 at 10:11PM
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qbush(6, NE MA)

I have used Hakuri Turnip, and Daikon to add humus. I plant them thickly, harvest small, and leave half or more to grow on, and die in the fall. My family of three can't eat all of them!
I just till normally in spring, roots have decomposed. This year I grew onions, Alisa Craig on that bed, and had a good crop, despite a late start. Next year it will be carrots.

    Bookmark     September 15, 2013 at 10:43AM
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glib(5.5)

In my previous garden I had numerous voles problems, and as soon as I would goon vacation snakes would move in. But they will not stay if you visit the garden even every second day and I did have to poison the voles eventually. I tried for a long time to establish owls, building a box nest out from a design on the Internet. No luck. The only sustained respite was when a female fox had a burrow at the end of my property, but at some point she moved on too.

    Bookmark     September 14, 2013 at 5:10PM
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macky77(2a)

We had the shoulders munched off most of our carrots a couple of years ago. Last year the carrots were untouched, but this year again, we have a couple of rows that are munched again. The teeth marks are obvious in places and they're larger than mice. Moles? Anyway... we have rows that we were more diligent about weeding than others. Those areas where you can see the ground between the rows are un-munched. Carrots are fine. The rows where the weeds got away from us, where there's a nice low canopy where whatever-rodent-it-is can maneuver unseen by predators, the carrots are munched. Obviously, we need to keep up with the weeding, but next year I'm also going to put an extra foot between my carrot rows as extra protection. I'm hoping that will do the trick. We don't have many snakes here, only very small garden snakes that we rarely see (maybe once every two or three years). We've got loads of owls and hawks and other birds of prey, though. I need to make sure the birds can see around the carrots so the moles (or whatever they are) don't feel safe in the rows.

    Bookmark     September 15, 2013 at 10:03AM
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ceth_k(11)

Look like some squash vine borer damage?

    Bookmark     September 15, 2013 at 3:20AM
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susanzone5(z5NY)

I agree with Itilton. Your fertilizer is fine and is probably washed away by now.
The lower leaves will get that way as the plant matures. I pull them off. Make sure they are watered and you may want to put a shade cloth over them if you're in a hot area. Most lettuces have gone to seed (bolted ) by now and people are starting on their new crops for the fall.

Also, check under the lower leaves for insects or other critters that may be eating the roots and stems. That can cause wilting, too.

    Bookmark     August 21, 2013 at 8:34AM
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CarloMartin947

I'm just wondering if you might prefer to try gardening organically. Good composted cow manure, compost, etc, will add humus to your soil and provide nutrients that are gentle on your plants. This page could help:

Biodynamic French Intensive Method

Here is a link that might be useful: Alan Chadwick

    Bookmark     September 14, 2013 at 4:42PM
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glib(5.5)

We got down to 34. The tomatoes appear to be alive, though they may have been helped by the heat given off by the driveway.

    Bookmark     September 14, 2013 at 11:18AM
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edweather(Zone 5a/b Central NY)

Yeah, we plant container veggies around our 20,000 gallon swimming pool. A nice heat sink for the first few cool days of fall :-)

    Bookmark     September 14, 2013 at 2:28PM
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zeedman Zone 5 Wisconsin

Probably a little early yet, but if they don't like the soil temp now, the seeds will germinate when cooler weather arrives. When I lived in San Diego, I planted crimson clover in October, along with garlic & other winter crops (in separate locations). Broadcast some oats & peas into the clover as well. The peas didn't have time to mature before it was all turned under, but I got to harvest a lot of pea shoots.

    Bookmark     September 9, 2013 at 8:48AM
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elsa_ca(S z15 USDA z9CA)

Thanks for the responses.... harvesting pea shoots, that's interesting! I think I'll post a new cover crop question inspired by that comment.

    Bookmark     September 14, 2013 at 12:15PM
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wertach zone 7-B SC

I know a lot about computers gymgirl2, but I don't know much about phones. Sorry.

Have you looked in to buying a Bluetooth keyboard for it? They may have the home and end keys.

    Bookmark     September 14, 2013 at 11:29AM
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woohooman San Diego CA zone 10a

Or you can just hold the left mouse button down on the scroll bar.

Kevin

    Bookmark     September 14, 2013 at 11:40AM
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ltilton

If the rootball is that tangled, the plant may be too old and rootbound for successful transplanting.

    Bookmark     September 14, 2013 at 9:30AM
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sunnibel7 Md 7(7)

It is plant specific to a certain extent and it depends on how much root there is whether you want to try to spread the roots out. Plants that are small and not root bound don't need their roots spread out, and plants that don't have their roots messed with have less transplant shock. But sometimes you get transplants that are root bound and if those roots aren't spread a bit the plant likely will never thrive. But once you do that, they need extra attention paid to keep the roots moist at all times while they recover from their "surgery". And even with that done, a really badly root bound plant may remain stunted. Good luck can be had with that method on plants that are just becoming root bound, though. All transplants need a bit of extra water while they send their roots downward, but non-rootbound ones don't tend to need the TLC for as long after tranplanting as do the root bound ones.

    Bookmark     September 14, 2013 at 10:10AM
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CarloMartin947

It's good to leave it if you can, but if the result is too snarled with old roots and stems, it's just as effective to remove them to a compost pile and allow the decomposition process to proceed a bit further. You can always add that well-rotted material back into the bed for the next crop. This link might help:

Biodynamic French Intensive Method

Here is a link that might be useful: Alan Chadwick

    Bookmark     September 13, 2013 at 4:53PM
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bejay9_10(zone 9/10)

If you are in zone 10 - as I am, this is the time to renew the soil and be ready for seed and seedling planting. October and November are our biggest planting months for the cool weather crops.

I'd dig out all the roots unless the planting area is not to be used until later time. The matted roots will not be a very hospitable place for young plants to try to push roots into.

In colder climates, with impending snow, the wet soil would soon reduce any roots and provide mulch for later plantings.

If you intend to plant soon, however, as I am, it would be best to dig deep and amend the existing soil with compost, bone meal, etc., and if any disease is suspected, stretching a clear sheet over the bed first - letting the sun "solarize" the soil first - would be beneficial.

I'm already ordering my seeds and amendments - getting ready for the big "October" push - here in zone 10.

bejay

    Bookmark     September 14, 2013 at 8:40AM
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