23,594 Garden Web Discussions | Vegetable Gardening


Lacewing larvae. Just ordered mine yesterday. If you insist on spraying, do what Rodney said, about 3-4 days apart at dusk. Rinse plants with plain water a couple hours later or in the morning. Then move onto a weekly schedule after that.
And if that don't do it, try the same with neem oil.
Kind of difficult in AZ. One shouldn't use ANY pesticide when the temperature is over 80F. At dusk, it's well over 80 there, no?
if so, then do the spraying first thing in the morn before it's too hot. Make sure you rinse before the heat comes for the day.
Kevin

I sprayed with just a dishwashing soap and water, it looks like it got a good amount of the little suckers, and plants seem fine, I will keep with this until I can tell if it goes one way or the other. It was a little disconcerting seeing the entire leaves covered with insects. We are finally cooling down here only 100 to 108 degrees this week with lows dropping a little below 80, Thanks for the info.

Your string is awesome. :)
I started Guelph Millennium from seed in 2004 (if memory serves) and have a bed of two dozen here myself. Wonderful, wonderful asparagus variety. Our patch is completely neglected a still produces thumb-thick spears for a good six weeks and ferns taller than my six-foot hubby.
The last three or four years, we've been having the same issue with something eating the sides of the top of the shoots, causing them to curl. What's different in our case is that the nibble seems to be happening *before* the spear breaks the soil level. Because of that, my suspects are either asparagus beetle larvae or cutworms.
I've been over to my local greenhouse here in town and to Early's in the city and both places have recommended Sevin. I'm not comfortable using something that indescriminate, though, so I'm still in wait-and-see mode. Last year was the worst year yet (over half the spears had damage), which is why I was looking into control measures. This year, though, there were only a handful here and there. I wonder if the seemingly never-ending winter thinned out some of the pests.
Roughly what percentage of your spears are being damaged? Are you able to wait it out and see if this is something long-term or short-term or is the damage too much?
A mistake I learned I'd been making was using the ferns themselves as winter mulch (seemed simplest just to tuck them over where they lay). Apparently that provides ideal habitat for asparagus beetles to overwinter. I'll be doing away with them this fall and using straw instead. Hopefully that will improve the situation next year. We'll see.

macky77 my asparagus is also Guelph Millennium. :)
I never even thought that they may have been eaten when the were below the dirt but I think its very unlikely. I check (and count) everyday and I'm pretty positive they were fine one day and nibbled a few days later.
We are having a bad year for grasshoppers and about the time I noticed the nibbling we were at the peak (hopefully) of the infestation. Out of the now 60-ish spears maybe 1/2 dozen were nibbled so I'm not too concerned - just annoyed and wanting to prevent further damage.
It seems like every spear that was nibbled had enough damage done to halt their growth but I noticed new spears coming up beside the damaged ones already.
As for the asparagus beetle, I'm not sure how far north you are but I think we are safe from threats of them - unless of course you'll actually caught them!!
If your spears are being damaged below the surface could it be grubs? (japanese beetle larva) We had grub issues in our potatoes a few years ago - they would eat holes in the potatoes and leave exposed tracks around the potatoes making them very difficult to store. We ended up spraying with nematodes a few times in one year and haven't had much of an issue since.
We got the nematodes from Natural Insect Control - http://www.natural-insect-control.com
They were also very helpful in identify the pest. It might be worth contacting them to see what they have to say.



I planted 25 crowns of asparagus this year so you're a year ahead of me but I can tell you what I've discovered in the process.
I was told that a "light" harvest can occur the second year and the following years you can normally pick what you want. When they say "thin" I've heard(read) it being compared to the thickness of a pencil.
Asparagus have male and female plants and the male tend to produce larger spears because the females put more energy towards seed production. I planted Guelph Millenium which is an all male plant so I don't get seeds and my spears will(should) be larger.
When I talk to people about asparagus I compare them to a tulip. The crown is like the bulb where energy is stored for next years spear productions. The more asparagus you allow to go to fern the more energy the crown stores for next year - don't remove the fern until it has died back in the fall or you may not have any asparagus next year because the plant was unable to store energy for spear production. Thin spears are generally female and are a result of little energy being stored, larger spears means more energy was stored.
When your female plants go to seed you can either pick the seeds or allow them to drop and then next year you'll also get asparagus growing from those seeds.
I don't see anything wrong with harvesting from the second growth as long as the spears are aren't too "thin." :)
When you're done harvesting your asparagus for the year and allow it to fern out I read that this is the time to fertilize. Fertilizing with a high nitrogen fertilizer allows the fern to grow and therefore transfer energy into storage for next year.
Like I said, this is mainly what I've read and don't have much first hand experience yet. Good Luck


Thank you for the replies! I went out to the garden this morning to see if I could figure out how many male/female blooms I have. Of about 30ish blooms, I could only identify 3 females. I guess that could be my problem, huh? Any clue why there are so few females?

The goal is to have at least 1 pumpkin be harvested before it starts gettin cold. I doubt we have that many 80+ degree days left in this growing zone.
And here's the thing...there are side vines/branches beginning to sprawl over the collards & watermelon & such..and clearly, we all kno that they don't intend on stoppin anytime soon. Sooo, I'm wondering if I can snip those guys off, but keep any others that aren't strangling my others w/ their tendrils..

Nice recent harvests everybody! Great pics!
If you want to take a look at my most recent pepper pics, click on the link below.
Thanks.
Kevin
Here is a link that might be useful: Link to my post in the hot pepper forum
This post was edited by woohooman on Thu, Aug 8, 13 at 19:28

I love to grow eggplants and I love more eating them. I lov them fat an plumb because I cut and fry it, boil it and add vinegar and lemon juice and diced red pepper. I pickle it too. My woman like the long skinny ones she peels the inside and stuff it with rice and ground beef. I plant the black beauty and few trees of whatsmacall it to produce the long skinny ones for stuffing. When this thing works it over produce and the trees grow huge I had to put stakes for support. Last season I had 25 huge trees and now I just ate some pickled ones from a jar.

Sicilian are big and plump, good for eggplant parm, grilled, fried plain, sauteed in pasta and roasted. If picked early enough the skin is usually tender, except when roasting. Asian are smaller, ideal for dicing up in pasta and other vegetable dishes, good on cabobs on grill, and sauteed in scrambled eggs or omlets since there smaller. Both could used interchangably though. Asianhave less seeds so better for people who cant digest too many seeds cause its less to take out. In the past I found I got a larger abundant of sicilian. Sicilan coukd be very seedy for people with
some digestive problems.
This post was edited by krissylovesplants79 on Wed, Aug 7, 13 at 15:34


There is a guy named TravisE here who grew gigantic pumpkin that I think you should really have at look here at this address below:
http://forums2.gardenweb.com/forums/load/cornucop/msg0600431112829.html
The guy is really awesome! You should ask him about it!




Sad to say I think it's too late. I have found that b sprouts have a very narrow planting window which opens and closes the first two weeks of June in Z 6.
You can direct seed kale, collards, kohlrabi and lots of other stuff now, though.
As planatus says above, it's probably a bit late for brussel sprouts now. His suggestion about direct sowing of kale is a good one, if you like it. A detailed description of how to plant kale can be found here:
http://alan-chadwick.org/html%20pages/techniques/garden_plants/veg_photos%203.html
Here is a link that might be useful: Alan Chadwick