24,795 Garden Web Discussions | Vegetable Gardening

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theforgottenone1013(MI zone 5b/6a)

Absolutely. Preferably 3 or more holes. If you don't they will suffer root rot.

Rodney

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gardenper(8)

When you are comfortable that the seedlings are doing well, then feel free to cut one that you don't want, or just pull it out carefully. Throw the remnants into compost bin.

You can also eat it when it is still smallish, so you could pull and eat, leaving behind some to get larger.

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sleevendog (5a NY)(5a NY)

I actually plant mine much thicker than that. I divide my mesclun bed in half or thirds using a scrap timber/stick of wood as a visual divider, loosen the soil a bit using my fingers as a rake. Densely sprinkle seeds on top, pat down, then add a dusting of peat. Water well, then add some sticks resting on the bed edges to give it a bit of light shade to get going/germinating. Start the second half of the bed two weeks later. (i keep the un-planted half covered and weed free)
Planting thick keeps it nice and clean suppressing weed growth.
I would suggest sprinkling 'more' seed, if you have it, on the left half of your bed and top with a bit of dry soil if you don't have peat. Water well, and use this as an experiment.

My mesclun bed is a bit different...2.5 x 6ft. but raised as yours is. Divided. Last weekend put in a variety that does not mind the cold. Another will go in that does not mind the heat, (late june)...I get salad all summer as one needs pulling as one is harvested.
Growing thick and cutting with scissors the first harvest, you will get a second growth harvest from your first planting. And no weeds.
...Then back to the cool season mix the end of august for a good fall crop.
I buy three mixes in bulk so i have plenty seed and a better price in bulk.
Any leftover seed i grow indoors in those clam-shell grocery containers for micro greens all winter.
I end up with so much in an area just a bit bigger than yours that i drop off bags to the senior center a few times every summer. (with all that extra zucchini, : )

-not bulk as in enormous...just 1/4 lb amounts.
for example, the braising mix does well early in cool soil...the all-star is great in summer...then braising in the fall...the spicy micro mix i put in weeks ago and it survived a late snow fall without any cover.

-i do grow a variety of head forming lettuce in another bed, but mesclun is always ready to add to a salad of other bigger leaf varieties.

Here is a link that might be useful: salad mix

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seysonn(8a WA/HZ 1)

Some kind of "CHOY" for sure : D

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aldigirl

Many thanks for all your answers, I have 5 of them so will be bok choi-ing it for a while x

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lilyd74 (5b sw MI)

Whack it off at the base, the roots will not re-grow. If by some odd chance they start to, a second whacking will take care of any residual growing energy left in the roots.

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tishtoshnm Zone 6/NM

For the record, the seed potato always gets mushy, it is not a sign of any affliction. I too would peel, cook and eat it without hesitation.

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peapod026

Thanks guys! I am leaning towards thinking these plants just had inconsistent watering and they petered out from it! I'll know for next year!

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howelbama(7 NJ)

Here it is.

Here is a link that might be useful: upright zucchini

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emorems0(PA - 6a)

I only start pruning when it starts getting powdery leaf mildew. It always hits the lower leaves first, I try to never prune above the lowest fruit. I figure a cut leaf stem is better for the plant than holding onto a spore-producing diseased leaf. Then I treat the upper leaves. I battle PLM on my zucchini every year, but my plants last through the whole growing season because I'm able to get rid of the diseased leaves fairly easily. As long as the PLM stays under control, the plants will keep producing zucchini. I don't know that you'd need to prune if you have an overall healthy plant, nothing wrong with keeping the lower leaves as the plant grows up unless the leaves are diseased.

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centexan254 zone 8 Temple, Tx

If it were me starting this late in this wonderful state I would go with peppers, and egg plant that is on your list. I would buy the largest most mature transplants I could get. Starting either from seed would take way too long to get growing to the point that you would get anything near to ripe fruit off of them. Once the heat of mid June hits you will not see much if any fruit set till the heat wave breaks in late Sept.

I would suggest hot weather lovers this late. Things like green beans, okra (I have love hate with it. I love to eat it. It is easy to grow here. The problem is anything short of a flame thrower has limited effect on the fire ants that will keep crawling over the dead ones to get to the fruit, then they burrow inside of it,and ruin it.) If you have room for it summer squash does great, as do most any melons. Plant the vines in the corners, and you can trail them over the edge leaving room for the other veggies.

If you like the greens then plant radishes. Though the heat tends to make the root like a pencil if you are lucky. Like a piece of yarn if you are not. If you want good radish then avoid rich soil as it makes for great greens from them, and small root.

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howelbama(7 NJ)

I'm so glad I don't have to contend with fire ants! That must be horrible.

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planterjeff(7b Grant Park Atlanta)

That eggplant is kicking my black beauties butt! It looks nice. I put mine out 4/10 and its not that nice yet!

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mdy113

thanks guys. sadly dont really have the space for another even bigger planter on my patio, (got a lot of other veggies growing). if it doesnt grow to its full potential i guess it may have to do. the planter pot is a little bigger then pic may make it seem, but i guess we will see what happens.

i will def put a stake or two in, i see what u mean, especially if fruit will set in soon and start to take off, will need some support

like i said i never grew eggplant before so hopefully i get at least 1 or 2 to make some eggplant parm later this summer! lol

Mike

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ltilton

I don't know if it's effective on blights, not being listed for same, and I don't get PM on tomatoes, so I use chlorothalonil on tomatoes and potatoes to prevent blights. PM is a big problem for me here on curcubits.

Both PM and blights are in the better-prevent-than-they-to-cure category of problems. Noting that two different organisms cause different diseases called "blight".

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FrancoiseFromAix

I did spray my tomatoes, and they don't suffer from it (I mean, those that were not overwatered !)

My stupice have flowers and little green fruits, and are doing great. They're loved by snails, but with the garlic, not so much.

My zucchinis and butternut squash were getting sick, I sprayed two evenings and yesterday at lunch time when it was cloudy, and they're cured.

But then I sprayed all of them, so I don't have a not sprayed one to compare.

Perhaps it's just a coincidence and they would have get cured in the same way if left alone.

I didn't do it scientifically to compare.

It's just the simple organic way that people do here and taught me.

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sunnibel7 Md 7(7)

Could be spider mites or it could just be sunburn from not hardening it off enough before planting out. I lean towards the second, except the newer leaves look to have some speckling too, so check under the leaves for little moving dots.

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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

Lack of water? No. Inconsistent soil moisture levels, yes. Too dry, too wet, too dry, etc. - causes edema patches in the skins. Sun scald can also contribute to the problem. It is apparently in a container, correct?

Dave

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acorn922

Thanks for the response.

Yup, it's in a container. If the soil moisture gets consistent, will the pepper's skin start to smooth out, or is it too late?

Are wrinkled ones still edible?

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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

Be sure to plant it in blocks rather than long narrow rows for best pollination. Would also suggest staggered plantings rather than all at the same time.

I use blood meal for the 2 staged supplemental side dressings needed.

But I also plant on 6" centers so would plan on 200 - 250 seeds per row and thin if needed to avoid spaces that don't germinate.. Spacing can be adjusted depending on if you are planting by hand or with a seeder.

As for garlic - do you really plan to plant 90 foot rows of garlic? If you use the normal 6-8" spacing that's a LOT of garlic!

Dave

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stuffradio

Thanks for the Corn suggestions. I am considering using one of those manual wheel seeding things. It has two wheels, a chain on it and a place for the seeds in the middle.

For the Garlic, I'm growing to be able to sell it. I have 400 plants growing right now, so I should be able to get 2000 max next year.

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daninthedirt(Cent TX; HZ10, Sunset z30, USDA z8a)

Check out Tromboncino squash. Easy to grow, and since they are moschata, they are resistant to vine borers. Pretty odd (and very edible).

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kudzu9(Zone 8a - PNW)

I'm with zeedman on the durian...

Here is a link that might be useful: Durian

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jimster(z7a MA)

I trust what Darrel Jones says and I learned something today. Ten feet and possibly fifteen more to go!!!! Wow!!!! That would be amazing.

Jim

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JeNolan

Hi All,

I ordered and grew "Skyscraper White Sweet Corn" from Gardeners Choice, I believe. Gardeners' Choice filled the order but was not responsive otherwise.

My corn grew to 14 feet and provided large ears of ghostly white sweet corn, very tender. I've always wanted to try it again. It was definitely not feed corn; and all my neighbours were amazed. One expert said I wouldn't get any ears off it because it had grown too tall.
I got 18 ears off 7 plants.

Perhaps GC isn't careful, but they weren't lying for me.

je

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wertach zone 7-B SC

The container soil is probably the biggest factor.

Soil-less mix and/or potting soil lets the roots develop faster.

If you had dug a hole the same size as your container for your in ground tomatoes and filled it with the same soil they would probably be equal.

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johns.coastal.patio(USDA 10b, Sunset 24)

I think I found the website. It says that the broadcast rate for all those products is 1 tablespoon per square foot.

I don't think that could really hurt.

"Feeds continuously up to 9 months" though, so only once per season.

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