23,821 Garden Web Discussions | Vegetable Gardening

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aloha10

Try it. I am in zone 6 near Cape Cod and I am still harvesting sweet lettucce by cutting back old plants of black seeded simpson and Paris Island Cos. I must admit that my table is supplemented by area farm stand lettuce as well. In your area, I would suggest planting some new lettuce in a cold frame for fall/winter harvest. Sometimes Jack Frost beats you in the game but it is a lot of fun playing.
Good Luck

    Bookmark     September 4, 2013 at 8:45PM
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elisa_z5

Yes, I definitely have cut bitter lettuce to the roots (just cut off, no need to dig up and replant) and gotten sweet lettuce growing from the old plant. Especially now that the weather is cooling down, this could work very nicely. Watering well reduces the bitter factor, too.

    Bookmark     September 4, 2013 at 10:16PM
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nc_crn

GW has a FL Gardening board, btw...it seems to be well used.

http://forums.gardenweb.com/forums/flgard/

Here is a link that might be useful: GW FL Gardening Forum

    Bookmark     September 4, 2013 at 5:57PM
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littlehomesteader(8b)

nc-crn,

thanks for the tip. it's my first day on GW and a bit overwhelming.

-littlehomesteader

    Bookmark     September 4, 2013 at 9:28PM
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seysonn(8a WA/HZ 1)

If you have/had other squash growing nearby, then the seed from this one could POSSIBLY be off as well.

    Bookmark     September 4, 2013 at 3:07AM
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thirsty_dirt_77(3a)

It could a spaghetti squash.

I grow a "Small Wonder" Spaghetti squash that is smaller in size and looks a lot like that. I see its starting to change to a yellow color too.

Maybe your seed package had a few foreigners in it. :)

    Bookmark     September 4, 2013 at 4:05PM
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zeedman Zone 5 Wisconsin

To me, some edamame actually tastes better when ripe. I try to pick at the first sign of pods yellowing, or when the first leaves in the row begin to yellow... particularly if the variety has seeds with colors other than green, since later harvest will bring out those colors.

But if they get riper than that, then as long as the pods are not yet brown, they are still usable. The beans from the yellow pods will not be as sweet, but you can use them like butterbean limas.

    Bookmark     September 4, 2013 at 3:31AM
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jimster(z7a MA)

Don't base your decision solely on the pod color. Open a couple of pods. The pods should be filled out and the seeds should be green and tender.

FWIW, my pods are not filled out yet.

Jim

    Bookmark     September 4, 2013 at 3:18PM
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jean001a(Portland OR 7b)

Garden huckleberry is a Solanum species,.

See this page -- has an image for garden huckleberry
http://www.tradewindsfruit.com/content/garden-huckleberry.htm

To my eye, the leaves are different
- garden huckleberry rounded or blunt at tips; lots more images if you do a web image search
- Leaves in image from OP are pointed.

As said earlier, don't eat until 100 percent certain.

Here is a link that might be useful: search for garden huckleberry

    Bookmark     September 4, 2013 at 1:57PM
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nc_crn

eastern black nightshade.

Though it contains poisons, they're not easily taken up by the digestive system and most people can handle them without danger...that said, they're not good eats.

    Bookmark     September 4, 2013 at 2:42PM
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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

Yeah a frequent discussion over on the Growing Tomatoes forum here. More common with some varieties than others but basically it is caused by over watering/heavy rains during development.

Preventing splitting is one of the primary reasons for picking at color break and ripening indoors out of the sun and heavy water exposure.

Lots of discussions about it on that forum.

Dave

    Bookmark     September 4, 2013 at 1:27PM
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donna_in_sask

I've always read to keep tomato and potato plants apart because they are in the same family and share the same diseases.

    Bookmark     September 3, 2013 at 11:23PM
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ltilton

Sometimes I've found tomato volunteers in the potatoes. And everywhere else.

    Bookmark     September 4, 2013 at 10:09AM
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ceth_k(11)

@ pnbrown : That happened to me too. The outside of the corn ear looked nice and pretty, even the silk dried to a very dark color. I picked it thinking it had matured enough just to find the whole ear was not filled with even a single seed.

    Bookmark     September 4, 2013 at 4:03AM
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pnbrown

Ceth, I mean an ear with no husk but with kernels - usually with kernels only on one side and a misshapen ear. It's pretty strange to see, the silk and the kernels but no husk.

    Bookmark     September 4, 2013 at 7:18AM
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aloha10

The holes look like those caused by tomato fruit worms/ corn earworms. They have bothered my tomatoes but not peppers. Both Spinosad and BT work well against these little monsters. Also go on daily egg patrols. The little eggs are laid near the small fruit on both sides of the leaves. To date, this year, I have kept them under control. Good luck to you.

    Bookmark     September 3, 2013 at 9:07PM
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zeedman Zone 5 Wisconsin

Not sure what the coffee contributes to the mixture... I've used a similar formula for years, with just purified water (hard water tends to clog the sprayer). I also add rubbing alcohol to mine, it paralyses the bugs long enough for the soap solution to do its work. It works wonders on squash bugs, aphids, and ants, but you do need to cover the entire insect for it to work.

Soap solutions make great low-toxicity bug killers, but soap & oil can cause leaf burn on some vegetables. Using a potassium-based insecticidal soap (such as Safers) will reduce the likelihood of damage. If dish soap is used, you can rinse the leaves off after the bugs are dead, maybe 15 minutes after application.

    Bookmark     September 3, 2013 at 2:50AM
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ldj1002(8b)

Alcohol and sand. Alcohol makes the drunk and they will get in a fight and stone each other to death with the sand.

    Bookmark     September 3, 2013 at 12:36PM
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CaraRose

Something has eaten some of my chard leaves so bad that there was just the veins left.

I think it might be slugs. No sign of caterpillars.

    Bookmark     September 3, 2013 at 11:22AM
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margo99

Cara
That's what I thought too, until i went out at night to look. I couldn't see anything in the daytime. If it is slugs, you will see them at night.

    Bookmark     September 3, 2013 at 11:45AM
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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

So we are talking about cantaloupe rather than winter melons, muskmelons, bitter melons, watermelons, etc.

BIg difference. :)

This particular variety is a grey and has no netting.

From it's detailed description:

Neither early, high-yielding nor easy to tell when ripe, this true cantaloupe without netting ripens very slowly, a golden-tan color spreading from the blossom and becoming pebbly. Cut from the vine when the blossom end is soft and the color has changed halfway up the fruit, then allow to sit until you can no longer resist its alluring perfume. Some will split and must be consumed immediately and some will be duds. Overripe, though sometimes still good.

Dave

    Bookmark     September 1, 2013 at 11:07AM
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insteng

I can tell mine are ripe because about two days before they are ready to pick the raccoons come in at night and raid them.

    Bookmark     September 3, 2013 at 10:20AM
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sunnibel7 Md 7(7)

You can either put them right back in the ground or keep them in a cool dry place until you are ready to plant them. Either way will work. I always plant a mix of sizes, because after all you want the large ones for cooking, but you need the small ones to replant and keep your shallot bed producing big ones to cook with... :)

    Bookmark     September 3, 2013 at 9:28AM
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seysonn(8a WA/HZ 1)

I think we should try to tolerate others opinions in any discussion. And also , try not to be offended by the opinions of the others that do not concur with that of ours.

IMO, Certain experimental issues about gardening are not backed by solid scientific and near scientific experiments. Sometimes by coincidences certain things happen and then people see a co relation there. I give you an example. We know about BER in tomatoes. We also know that it is somehow related to Calcium. Now, Joe, The Gardener experiences BER and starts adding calcium to the soil. Shortly after, BER stops from happening. Joe TG, concludes that, IN ORDER TO PREVENT ber YOU SHOULD ADD TOMS PILLS TO THE SOIL. But what actually, JTG experienced was likely just coincidental:, The weather changed, the soil temperature changed, the plants grew out of bigger, soil pH changed(due to the amount of water in the soil, fertilizers..) and BER stopped.

It can be the same thing with most of co planting situation.
So , if one is a pro or con when it comes to BEANS and ONIONS, he should do as he wants. As far as I am concerned, it shouldn,t make any difference. Unless, the beans shade the onions too much.

    Bookmark     September 3, 2013 at 2:47AM
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pnbrown

Yes, since the thread title clearly states "beans" I should have just left the observation about peas out.

The reason I put it in - five years ago - is because I believe the taboo is about perennial onion in association with Pisum. Somehow it got applied wholesale to all legumes, even though legume is a massively varied clan. Seysonn is correct, one cannot make assumtions, for example, it is possible that garlic does not exudate as freely as A.cepa v. proliferum or aggregatum. It is possible that soil temperature is a big factor, and that might be why Pisum planted in cool soil can be affected and other legumes planted in warm soil are not ( I can imagine that exudates break down much more quickly in warm soil). And/or Pisum is uniquely vulnerable.

I'm sure nobody bothered to look at my links but the research has been done which indicates a suppressing effect can happen.

    Bookmark     September 3, 2013 at 7:25AM
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soilent_green

Fun experiment, isn't it? Thanks for posting your updates, the progress has been fun to follow.

I too urge folks to experiment if you have the space. It can be quite fun to see the results, and you might get something you like out of the effort.

Photo shows what I got from saving and replanting seed of a hybrid beefsteak tomato. This is the third year now. IMO neither have spectacular flavor but better than the hybrid from whence they came.

I am ready to drop the beefsteak but the paste is a very useful variety to me. The pastes ripen to a wonderful "heirloom pink" color which the photo does not properly represent. Productive plants, fairly long shelf life once picked. Very meaty, very little juice, gel, or seeds (so few seeds that it takes considerable effort to save enough for next year). Makes a great bulk filler for my processing, I add my favorite heirlooms for flavor.

Regarding height of your plants, I have an indeterminate tomato plant in a container that is now over ten feet high and still growing. Never pruned the suckers. Still producing blooms and fruit at height. Was supposed to be variety "SubArctic Plenty" but doesn't quite fit the bill. 1" to 2" fruit size in clusters is similar, though. Very healthy, productive, cold and heat tolerant plant, producing many mediocre but acceptable tasting fruits by my palate. It was the first plant to produce for me up here so it has earned my respect. Being that I have no idea what the variety is, I have saved seed so I can grow it again.

Possible it is SubArctic Plenty that crossed with something else in the garden of the person from whom I received the seed. Either way it has been fun to grow and amazes family and friends who see it. Have lots of requests for plants for next year...

Have a good day,
-Tom

    Bookmark     September 2, 2013 at 12:33PM
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nickrosesn

So I cut some of the vines that had red tomatoes and both me and my parents tried one of the tomatoes. I have to say that I'm not really a tomato person but to me they tasted good. The parents said it tasted better then store bought and it was less juicer then store bought.

    Bookmark     September 2, 2013 at 8:44PM
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