23,948 Garden Web Discussions | Vegetable Gardening
Wow, Nc-crn and Seysonn! Maybe I should try some of the cooler tolerant varieties you all mention. I had no idea there were so many tomato varieties until this year. Good to know that there are some for cooler climates. I wonder how my plants will fare. Kind of an experiment. I am in the PNW, too Seysonn. In my area we get pretty hot summers (usually) and pretty cold winters in Eastern Wa. Not quite as cold as Montana. The last four years, I've noticed a pattern of very warm Septembers and sometimes warmer Octobers. In turn, our Junes have been chilly and rainy. So odd! Makes it hard to plan because we can get frosts in September so it is always a roll of the dice. Wish they had more of these types in the cucurbit family, particularly squash. Tried the butternut bush squash and wasn't too impressed.
Armyworm is kind of a general term, but that's what those are. Bt or spinosad will easily control them, but they can be sneaky. In fall I find them in the bottom of cabbage heads, hiding and eating and making a mess.
Here is a link that might be useful: armyworm life cycle
I have no paper, but the role of water/nutrient exchange through leaves are better understood. Stomate and cuticle movement of water/nutrients take up an extremely small (practically negligible) amount of water whereas small ionic transfer of nutrients can take place.
It was thought in the past by some that excessive rainfall or overhead watering of plants was causing excessive leaf expansion, but ultimately a big issue in plant loss was found to be the top weight keeping the roots from setting up the very important and extremely small micro/mini rooting systems that are crucial for development causing an abnormal amount of plants to not survive the seedling stage (this doesn't count abnormalities such as damping off, etc). Water film weight on leaves and the amount of top growth vs root system can be quite dramatic on top plant weight once transplanted out of a stable seedling container and into the field when wind starts kicking around unless the seedling is firmly settled into it's new home. Weight + wind in a seedling in the ground that isn't firmly settled can break small root networks before they're fully formed. The big part of root systems, even the tiny branches, aren't as important in the big picture as the extremely tiny micro/mini roots and root hairs which come in contact with more surface are in the soil. A tiny as heck small visible branch of root can have 100s-1000s of hair-or-less-sized micro-branches coming off of it...stuff that stays in the soil broken off when you pull a plant up because they're so fragile.
When vulnerable plants are grown in a relatively wind-pressure-free greenhouse, and especially under misting systems, you don't see these issues.
I called it an "outdated notion" because...even though I've never read an actual study about the top-watering-leaf-growth issues, I have seen it mentioned in older gardening books.
If I were gardening where the weather was warm, growing season was long( like South and California), then I would buy smaller healthy plants. But if I was gardening somewhere that has long cool start (like Seattle, WA, wher I am), I will buy the BIGGEST seedling that I can find and afford. It makes so much difference.
I found out that if you let the fruit get completely orange they can get bitter &/or if changes the taste. I found that they are at their best if you pick them when they still have their green stripes. I found their flavor to be similar to black beauty they just aren't as soft. They have a mild flavor that will take on whatever flavor you toss it with.
You are welcome ! Don't worry you will learn fast.
About fertilizers:
I also made raised bed this past spring and filled the wit top soil and compost.
To further enhance, I added this bagged STEER MANURE (compost) both from HD and Lowes. On top of all these I added some ALL PURPOSE granular fertilizer ( I think it was 16-16-16 OR 12-12-12). You can use the general direction on the bag. Now. after you mix and all these, really work them together and water the bed and let it sit a few days so the fertilizer is partially absorbed to the soil. I would AVOID over fertilizing. After your plants grow, you will be able to read them. And also then, different plants will have different requirement in terms of N, P and K.
Well it is getting late for fall planting in zone 6. Most fall crops would already be planted a month or so back. But if you have some short-season (low DTM) seeds for lettuces, cabbage, spinach, chard, kale and such you might still be able to get a harvest from some of them. And you can still get your garlic planted if you hurry.
If you can enclose them in a low tunnel or a clothe of some kind to add a couple of weeks to your season and keep the soil warm enough they will do ok.
Google 'fall gardening in New Jersey' pulls up several fall gardening discussions over on the New jersey Gardening forum here you might want to check out.
Dave
Like Dave said, It's kinda late but you may also be able to pick up some transplants if your area calls for things like broccoli and other longer DTM veggies can go in this late. A lot of brassicas et al can hold up to LIGHT frosts pretty well.
Kevin
In an effort to try to get this back on track, I would pass on the 2 back pack sprayers simply because of the weight and cumbersome issues. When something is difficult and uncomfortable to us we tend to skip using it when needed.
Of the remaining 3 I would choose the Chapin 21220XP Premire 2-Gallon Pro Poly Sprayer for the following reasons:
1) readily available replacement parts with reasonable prices
2) easy to clean anti-clog filter as that is the most common problem with any sprayer
3) the brass vs. poly components
4) big mouth opening makes the base easy to clean too
5) adjustable spray patterns on nozzle
6) clear color of tank makes tracking liquid levels easier than with the blue tank model
Dave
Dave - I have a 2 gal sprayer like the Chapin that I use for herbicides. In terms of weight and cumbersome issues, I find the backpack spray much easier to carry around and use, once it's on my back, despite being heavier.
Lugging around 16# by a handle is cumbersome indeed and hurts my hands. The strap that comes with it is worse than useless. I ended up this summer fastening the thing to a dolly and hauling it around that way.
Backpack sprayer also reaches a lot higher for spraying fruit trees.
This is a discussion forum, not a place where you can order seeds. If you are looking for people to trade seeds with then please go to the various Seed Exchange forums here.
And for Gourd seeds the Gourd Gardening forum also has a seed trading forum.
Thanks.
Here is a link that might be useful: Vegetable Seed Exchanges
after a lot of help her3e, thanks everyone, and looking at a lot of reviews and youtube videos i decided to for now go with the Earthwise TC70001 .. just 100 bucks which is less than half of what i planned on so worth a shot especially since it won't be to break new ground but to mix new stuff we'll be putting in, which i am beginning to stock pile now .. little every month till we have enough in a few months just in time for the new garden season
Hi. I live in Gilbert, SC - about 2 hours south of you. I sowed my carrot & rutabaga seeds about a month ago. I had absolutely no problem with germination. I kept the soil constantly moist -- I sometimes misted them 4 times per day. Root crops do not transplant - you need to direct sow. I have heard of covering with burlap or a shade cloth until germination - keeps our hot, hot sun from drying out the seed for those who cannot mist more than 2 times per day. Good luck with your second sowing!
Meg: Good deal! Just to let you know, you don't need an elaborate setup and lights to get going. Just a standard shoplight fixture and a couple tubes.--- around 30 bucks total. I use T8 6500K "daylight" tubes. No need to have actual expensive GROW lights. That, and a couple of shelves, and you're good to go.
Deborah's right about root crops needing to be direct sown. Onions, however, actually do better as starts IMO. Also, most root crops are pretty early DTM. So, holding off a month or so before sowing should still get you a crop. Plus, they hold up to light frosts pretty well.
Check with your local county extension for a planting calendar.
Good luck.
Kevin
I've never used them as a dye, but once the berries are dried, just putting several in room temperature water will create a dark purple 'tea'. I would guess hot water would work even better. No idea if this will work as dye - just saying I don't think the color is real hard to extract.
You have to wait the normal period to get watermelons that are any good. It also helps to have kept the plant to no more than 2 melons on late rounds....important to put that energy into one or two melons rather than a litter. You can also cover the vines on a frosty night to prolong the season.
In my experience, tomatoes make little progress once nights fall into the 50's, probably because it's early afternoon before the fruits warm up from the night before. You can wrap mature green fruits in newspaper and keep them in a cool place, then bring them out to ripen one at a time. I'll do that with the perfect ones, and make green tomato relish with the rest. 46 last night, great for collards and kale, bad for tomatoes.
Thank you for the responses. On the not of disease does this look like blight? It's. On my cherry tom .