24,795 Garden Web Discussions | Vegetable Gardening

I use half inch conduit for trellis frames. I got a roll of heavy wire at Lowes that I use to anchor the vertical conduit to hold up in high winds. I use it for tomatoes by running lines down from the top and weaving from side to side. Works great, and breaks down easily. I use PVC elbows to connect the vertical and horizontal bars.

Grandad, your growing season is so different than ours here in Massachusetts, obviously. I see how the plastic can keep the plants from rooting the runners if you are going to pull them out after a main harvest.
We have less sun than we started out with now that the neighboring trees have matured. Not much we can do about that. I used to be able to grow full size tomatoes but now I stick to the cherries.
Jonfrum, anchoring is another way to go too. ItâÂÂs so interesting how people find their own adaptation to different ideas. Thanks.

I think you can plant and grow successfully JUST ABOUT ANYTHING you want in that space, with 6 hours of sun, down in Memphis, TN. I am gardening in a situation that I get hardly 5 hours of direct sun and I grow tomatoes, potatoes, pepper, cucumbers, squash, garden bean, chard, ... all kinds of herbs.
Here are some plants that wont mind even less direct sun:
---- chards, parsley, sage, rosemary, lemon balm, any member of onion family (chives, onions, leeks, shallot,) any member of cabbage family,
But it might be a bit too late for some of them to start from seeds but you can always buy plants and plant them.

Thank you both for your responses, I appreciate it-great suggestions. Seysonn, we actually just planted a whole 8x4 bed with seeds of Swiss Chard and Kale. I know Kale especially is supposed to be a cool season plant, but we use Kale in smoothies and would be covering up up bitter tastes anyway. When you say it may be too late are you referring to the bitterness as the weather gets hot-or an issue with germination and growth? Thanks!


To make matters worse the conditions which slow the basil growth also favor many basil diseases. That is my main reason for only early starting disease resistant varieties like Nufar, Emily or Genoveser. Also use a potting mix with biofungicide if possible as added insurance and then you still need to keep young seedlings warmer than most other crops. Temps dipping into the mid 40s often leeds to "Tanning" of the leaves; low of

boil baking potatoes and an onion in good stock. Add spices and salt to taste (I like a little chili and salt). When cooked, blend the soup with one or two handfuls of sorrel leaves, stems removed. serve immediately. the secret is to blend instantly when leaves and soup are in the blender. then the soup will stay a bright green. if you wait, it will turn grey. Baking potatoes are much easier on your blender than waxy. Sorrel soup with waxy destroyed our previous blender.
I also add tallow or olive oil to the soup when serving. This is served in April and for Thanksgiving here.

Sorrel leaves effectively 'melt' when heated so you can make a quick sauce for grilled or fried fish by just cooking some gently in a little butter. It has the acidity you need and fulfils the same function as a slice of lemon.
Or you can make it slightly fancier by adding the fish juices and some crème fraiche.


We don't mulch in Zone 3 - maybe we should but the asparagus seems to emerge when it is ready - We would actually rather it come up a little later as others commented - the early warm break in the weather kicks everything in gear and then Mother Nature reminds us that winter is not over yet - the Asparagus has to shiver in it's boots for a day or two.



"Same thing with kale and chard. Once bolted, they're done. "
Not so, for sure, IME. I have had chard plants go 3-4 years in well-protected locations. Kale plants are well known to produce for longer than that in greenhouses or very mild climates, though I have not had one go for more than about 3 years.


Thanks terry_neoh for all those possible problems, it's really good to know all these. I will definitely look them up for more info and see if I can dig around to see what's down there.
And, the pollination, yes, I've been going out each morning with a tiny paintbrush to pollinate if I have to. It's kind of fun! I've also tried to plant more flowers around to attract the bees.
Thanks art_1! I had high hopes for Mel's Mix, but it was disappointing. The mix was just too light and needed more "substance" as my neighbor told me.

Looks like you may not have selected a suitable compost element for your Mel's mix. I've been using homemade compost in Mel's mix for years and it works well, as advertised and expected. Also, the bed doesn't look raised to me. The idea is to use Mel's mix on top of the native soil, not incorporated into it.

I am sorry you are having trouble, but it is tough starting out, when you haven't seen good (and bad) growth cycles before.
Did you remove the cover after seeds popped up? One problem can be too much humidity and too little light.
Since I don't have grow lights I try to get them by a window as soon as possible. And with the top of I prefer watering with a mister.
This may not help, sorry. Maybe watching some (more) seed starting videos will help.
In terms of how much time you have, have you found a garden calendar (online) for your area. I found one for my zone with nice "do this now" and "you are late" instructions.
Good luck.



Thanks for the helpful comments. I am taking them to heart. The okra seedlings are doing well inside. Soon they can go outside.
Being a new transplant in PNW, I am also trying to germinate and eventually grow some okra. But I am not holding my breath. I used to grow them back in Atl. GA area for years, with no problem. Okra is basically a Southern plant with Hot and LONG growing season. Unless they is a one bred for cooler climates that I don't know of. Everywhere I go, all I can find is CLEMSON SPINELESS. Not a good one : It gets woody before you can say AAH.