23,594 Garden Web Discussions | Vegetable Gardening
I don't intentionally tressil any of my heavy vines, but they always climb my fence. When they do I "sling" them with really cheap knee high panty hose. I slip the fruit in the sock and tie the to to the fence. The panty hose expand with the growing squash or melon and I have yet to have one tear open. I started doing this with ones that had runs in them when I needed a quick sling, now I buy a pack at the store every year just for this purpose.
Ye, sorry. Link below is to same question from earlier in the week with more info.
Dave
Here is a link that might be useful: To late to plant corn?
I did see a few insects that looked like red ladybugs but moved faster a week or so ago. Trying to remember if they were on the beans or something else, but I'm sure it was somewhere down in that 3000sf area (or the edamame just across the road from it). Not sure if it was Mexican bean beetle or bean leaf beetle. I haven't seen any eggs or larvae.
http://extension.entm.purdue.edu/fieldcropsipm/insects/bean-leaf-beetle.php
Raining right now, but maybe I can get out to spray this afternoon. Rain expected Sunday too.
Here is a link that might be useful: Mexican bean beetle
@uscjusto nothing strange about it. There's always that one post from the "holier than thou" person.
I don't see that as "holier than thou". I was wondering about such a quick move myself? Usually you have a minimum of 30 days, and usually you know ahead of that time.
I haven't rented for a long time, but most of those rules are the same, unless you get a 3 day eviction notice. Nancy
My Blue Lake bean plants usually go full tilt until about now. They are slowing down as of late. The Mexican bean beetles set in about now as I noticed a few leaves today that had larvae under them. Grabbing all that I can before the carnage begins.
I yank them all up and put them in a trash bag and then start the 2nd crop before Fall.
My beans have yet to get vigor.
Not quite sure about that. Planted seeds June 1st. Vines are over 10' & look healthy, but are just (barely) starting to flower.
Ash, maybe next year try some pole beans along with your bush beans. That's what I do, & usually it works...just not for me this year.
Its a bag worm. Ussually found on pine trees and if there is a lot of them they can strip a tree of all its needles really fast. Check out your spruce and yews they like the short needles best. I've seen them strip a 6ft blue spruce in a couple of days and crawl dragging their bag to the next tree. They are bad news if not dealt with.
Watermelons only flower on new growth. If you don't keep them growing with at least moderate vigor they stop any meaningful flowering. I need to fertilize every 2-4 weeks because my soil is very permeable. That means nitrogen leaches away quickly.
Properly done I can harvest fruit off the same plant late June until October. But two plantings make it easier. About 2 months fruit off each.
Another culprit could be slugs/snails. But normally they are more active earlier in the season when the plants are small seedlings or just sprouting. The thing about s &s is that they are out during the night. To find out you have to inspect at night with a flash light.
The orange-copper nocturnal beetles are asiatic garden beetles, and to me a good reason for you to check for them is that you have the same damage to basil and peppers. This is exactly their feeding pattern at my house. Also mint and sweet potatoes and chard tend to get targeted.
I have over a dozen cucumber-melon varieties that I grow. They come in all shapes and sizes. The picture I attached is of a round variety I grew called Carosello Tondo Massafra.
The benefits of growing cucumber-melons are that they are burpless (don't cause indigestion), they are bitter-free, and they grow quickly in the heat. They also tend to be rather disease resistant. I often grow these varieties and post pictures of them on my blog, listed below.
Note: Though I am sharing the following picture, I do not give permission for it to be used without prior consent.
Here is a link that might be useful: Scientific Gardener Blog
mandolls, I dug back through my garden notes and found this:
"May 28. Cukes are surviving but took transplant hard. Diva looks best, all three seedlings alive. Early Spring has died back to 2 of 4. Both vars. beginning first leaves after seedling leaves."
It seems that we had high wind around then that may have beat them up a little. The Early Spring cukes completely fizzled.
Will recall this thread and file a future report if and when the Divas get to work.
hortster
The tomato/potato is experimental on my part. I alternate it with other fungicides like daconil.
PM is what it's specifically listed for. It's not an all-purpose fungicide. I wish it did double duty for DM, too, but alas not.
Sprayed all my squash again with the Neem. Really want to get back on top of this powdery mildew stuff. Already today the squash look so much better than they did on Monday when I last sprayed them. So today being Friday that means 4 days in between sprayings. Now I should be able to go back to weekly spraying. Actually I would like to keep to a spray in just under a week. That should work well.
I had to wait until late in the day, I just came in from spraying. Not that it is hot. I could have sprayed in the middle of the day as temps are really mild. But the bees were out all over the squash all day. Lots and lots of honeybees. I don't honestly know what they were doing but they were at it ALL day. Not in the flowers, they were landing under the leaves and then looking like they were eating or vacuuming along under the leaves. And only on the leaves that had powdery mildew. How really strange. I guess eventually they had enough and went home or it just got late.
I was using my battery powered wand sprayer again. Found a spray setting that works really well and the spraying didn't take as long to do this time as it did the first time I used the sprayer.