23,948 Garden Web Discussions | Vegetable Gardening

Pritavit is sold by Osborne seed co., and probably others too. It's an F1 hybrid so I can't save seeds unfortunately.

Thanks! I'll check them out.

I will try the hot pepper approach what dilution would work best.

Has anyone used the scarecrow sprinklers against squirrels? I can see frightening a deer, raccoon, possum, or cat with one. But squirrels are pretty resilient to water. In their tree-top nests, they get rained on all the time. So I have to wonder if they'd just laugh off a scarecrow sprinkler. Bath time!

I'm not sure, but in the linked article it sounds like they are talking about "flower sprouts", the somewhat new veg that Johnnys seed company is pushing.

The only reason why you would cut the tops off regular brussels sprouts is to promote even sizing of the sprouts for full stem harvest.

Of course, you can eat some leaves if you want but I personally think kale is much tastier....

-Mark

No, Mark, I assure you they talking about Brussels Sprouts. They are so ubiquitous here that you only need to say 'sprouts' and everyone knows you mean Brussels Sprouts. The tops are cut off after the sprouts have been harvested. As I said, they are sold as a separate green vegetable in their own right here in the UK. There is no tradition here of cutting off the tops to promote growth, only to harvest them as greens.

Until you have tried sprout tops I would not dismiss them. We eat them a lot in winter - they are tender and delicious, not tough like the lower leaves, which we do not eat. If you Google 'Sprout tops' you will get a lot of hits for recipes.

Here is a link that might be useful: More on sprout tops

we leave all roots in especially legumes, it all adds and all helps.

len

Here is a link that might be useful: lens garden page

I chop up all the residue...tops and bottoms and mix them into the soil a bit along with any amendments....and perhaps plant a cover crop if growing time permits. Things are really nice by spring planting time.

same plant

last photo

Well like I said, I haven't tried using tulle. I was just giving a suggestion based on old posts.

disappointed in row covers/will netting work for cabbage moths?
http://forums2.gardenweb.com/forums/load/cornucop/msg0422501923825.html

French Tulle Netting
http://forums2.gardenweb.com/forums/load/cornucop/msg0505305828412.html

Help me kill the Flea Beetles eating my Eggplants!
http://forums2.gardenweb.com/forums/load/cornucop/msg0620524021153.html

The last two links say that using tulle keeps out flea beetles.

Rodney

French or Nylon tulle comes in many shades of color and tightness.Tighter ones can keep all insects out, even mosquitoes. So you wouldn't want to cover cucurbita with it because you need pollinators.

Thank you guys so much! I can deal with ugly potatoes! :)

Next season try (or tell the dudes planting to try) scab resistant varieties...especially if lowering the pH isn't an option.

It won't 100% wipe out the issue, but it helps moderately to greatly lessen scab depending upon variety selection.

You use those same planters for lots of crops, don't you?

Did you make them yourself?

I've used them for potatoes, beans, peas, and cukes. They came with the house. Just cleaned them up a bit and painted them. They're pretty old and made of pressure treated wood. Very heavy, not sure I'd recommend them.

Tokyo Bekana?

@ jrslick : That is absolutely right! I eat this veggie all my life and still don't know it has a japanese name. Thank you very much jrslick!

In the southern zones , You have to plant them real early. Like in GA, I use to plant them 4 to 6 weeks before last frost and would dig them sometimes in july. That would like 110 days or so. Then you can also do a fall planting, Like late July.

Climate is a limitation, fersure. But then, it presents a challenge!

And for another example, yews are deadly poisonous to us in all their parts. Deer love em.

My wife puts hot peppers and garlic on everything she feeds me. Is she trying to poison the dear [sic] ? ed - 5/4/14

This post was edited by albert_135 on Thu, May 8, 14 at 17:47

Your okra plants sound just how mine look, except I have no okra yet. But suddenly there are a ton of flowers on many branchy ends, so we'll see.

Honestly, seysonn, zone has little to do with it.

This is the first year I have begun to understand the potential of okra, which is nice because another couple of dudd years on it would have put it on my why bother list. Very few of my purple tomatillos are actually purple but they are growing well so it is nice to have a few successes. My season though has mainly been hot and dry, are temperatures have been exceeding the normal average and while our drought has improved a teensy bit, it is still ongoing.

I don't see it much different than spraying rose pride on my mildew prone roses before they get powdery mildew. It's a lot easier to prevent it than to cure it.

It pays to first understand how something actually works.

It is a big difference is between treating or preventing an airborne fungus disease vs. killing a live pest.

Bt only works after it is eaten. It isn't a repellent, it isn't a contact pesticide. It has to be ingested, chewed up, swallowed. Plus once diluted it is only effective for a short period and in liquid form (to inject it) it will all just drain down to the base of the plant anyway.

So you'd be wasting most if not all of it on the off chance that some borer might just happen to enter the stem where the Bt was injected and just might come in contact with some it still active and just might happen to eat some of it.

Dave

I still see no difference. I'm spraying the roses on the chance that mildew spores will land on it and infect the plant. The spray has a longer effective time than BT, obviously, but it's limited too, that's why I have to spray every 1-2 weeks (and failing to, I get mildew infestation like I did last year and beginning of this year when I got negligent about it).

Since at this point I'm positive my plants WILL get SVB. No matter how hard I search for eggs, I'm going to wind up with them. It's not a matter of if, but when, then at some point my weekly injection will overlap a point of time when they're too small for me to see obvious signs of them, but already inside eating, and kill them before they do too much harm.

I got to them with injections this year before they did enough damage to kill the plants, but they still did enough damage to hurt production and weaken the plants. Taking a preventative approach, I may be able to kill them before my plants are weakened. You do a series of injections up the entire vine, and the amount you inject is actually pretty low to fill the cavity in the vine. I only mix a cup full and after injecting six plants, I still have some left over that I usually spray onto my broccoli.

This post was edited by CaraRose on Fri, Sep 6, 13 at 12:18