23,948 Garden Web Discussions | Vegetable Gardening

Thanks Wayne!

generally speaking, sweet potatoes like water. Slips will thrive for a long time in a gallon jug of water as long as they have warmth and sunlight.

They will like a thorough soaking every once in a while. But waterlogged soils, not good. Drip irrigation is good.

SP vines are quick to wilt, but quick to recover.

Sprouts are far more productive indoors. After much selection, I grow sunflower shoots in compost trays in a sunny window sill, and broccoli and fenugreek in jars (no medium). Shoots take two weeks, sprouts one week. My biggest problem is keeping the bag of compost in the garage unfrozen, since I use fresh compost for every new batch of shoots.

I doubt that root crops can be grown successfully indoors. You need more than one foot of soil. Root crops can be eaten through the winter, but they need to be in the root cellar, which in my case is totes full of moist sand in the garage. Carrots and parsnips dug up during a thaw are the best tasting root crops, better than anything you can grow indoors.

I tried posting on the growing under lights forum, but it's been kind of dead over there.

Well I didn't necessarily mean posting, just reading all the huge amount of info that is already there about gardening under lights.

But yes it is slow right now on that forum as it is out of season. It will pick up there after outdoor harvest time in mid to late October.

Dave

To me growing beans and peas as dry goods, is just pointless, economically speaking. Unless they are RAE and exotic. Alot of dry beans are sold for about $1/lb-$2/lb.

My dry beans are so much better than store-bought that I can't hardly eat them anymore.

I have a community garden where I grow my potatoes and leaving them in the ground is not an option. I dug mine a couple of weeks ago and they were in milk crates until I could get them stored correctly. I thought the milk crate allowed for good air circulation. I was going to try the newspaper layering technique but before I could get that done, about 10 potatoes rotted out of about 100 lbs. Right now, I washed most of the potatoes and have them drying on a screen on saw horses in my garage. I am going to let them dry well for a couple of days and then go through them again to check for any with signs of rot. We will see how this works.

So what do you do with the potatoes that have been next to the rotten potatoes and have that nasty rotten potato liquid on them?

"So what do you do with the potatoes that have been next to the rotten potatoes and have that nasty rotten potato liquid on them?"

Wash them off and use first.

Definitely bottle gourd.
I dont think that this gourd can cross with musk melon or squash. Actually its seeds are WAY different from musk melon seeds and squash too.

I think the lady just got her seeds mixed up. Gourds and muskmelons can't cross pollinate because they are from two different genuses.

Rodney

If you have/had other squash growing nearby, then the seed from this one could POSSIBLY be off as well.

It could a spaghetti squash.

I grow a "Small Wonder" Spaghetti squash that is smaller in size and looks a lot like that. I see its starting to change to a yellow color too.

Maybe your seed package had a few foreigners in it. :)

To me, some edamame actually tastes better when ripe. I try to pick at the first sign of pods yellowing, or when the first leaves in the row begin to yellow... particularly if the variety has seeds with colors other than green, since later harvest will bring out those colors.

But if they get riper than that, then as long as the pods are not yet brown, they are still usable. The beans from the yellow pods will not be as sweet, but you can use them like butterbean limas.

Don't base your decision solely on the pod color. Open a couple of pods. The pods should be filled out and the seeds should be green and tender.

FWIW, my pods are not filled out yet.

Jim

Garden huckleberry is a Solanum species,.

See this page -- has an image for garden huckleberry
http://www.tradewindsfruit.com/content/garden-huckleberry.htm

To my eye, the leaves are different
- garden huckleberry rounded or blunt at tips; lots more images if you do a web image search
- Leaves in image from OP are pointed.

As said earlier, don't eat until 100 percent certain.

Here is a link that might be useful: search for garden huckleberry

eastern black nightshade.

Though it contains poisons, they're not easily taken up by the digestive system and most people can handle them without danger...that said, they're not good eats.

I've always read to keep tomato and potato plants apart because they are in the same family and share the same diseases.

Sometimes I've found tomato volunteers in the potatoes. And everywhere else.

@ pnbrown : That happened to me too. The outside of the corn ear looked nice and pretty, even the silk dried to a very dark color. I picked it thinking it had matured enough just to find the whole ear was not filled with even a single seed.

Ceth, I mean an ear with no husk but with kernels - usually with kernels only on one side and a misshapen ear. It's pretty strange to see, the silk and the kernels but no husk.

Not sure what the coffee contributes to the mixture... I've used a similar formula for years, with just purified water (hard water tends to clog the sprayer). I also add rubbing alcohol to mine, it paralyses the bugs long enough for the soap solution to do its work. It works wonders on squash bugs, aphids, and ants, but you do need to cover the entire insect for it to work.

Soap solutions make great low-toxicity bug killers, but soap & oil can cause leaf burn on some vegetables. Using a potassium-based insecticidal soap (such as Safers) will reduce the likelihood of damage. If dish soap is used, you can rinse the leaves off after the bugs are dead, maybe 15 minutes after application.

Alcohol and sand. Alcohol makes the drunk and they will get in a fight and stone each other to death with the sand.