23,594 Garden Web Discussions | Vegetable Gardening
I eat grapes all the time and no, I don't buy organic. I wash them of course but I know that commercial growers must be spraying with something. I can't control these things but I can control what I spray in my own garden. I try and stay away from toxic. So far the only two things I have ever used on the veggies are a Neem oil product (for the squash) and a Daconil product (for the tomatoes).
Well, I've never grown a pumpkin before so this should be interesting. Probably a dumb question but when will they turn orange and be ready to pick? Early October I assume? Judging by their current size in mid-July they are going to be massive in Oct.
BTW, it turns out that my neighbor planted them in her garden so it must have been transferred to my flower bed by an animal. These plants are voracious...they took over her whole garden. The leeks she had growing there a few weeks ago are M.I.A.
I wouldn't worry about the very lower leaves turning yellow. When you let the plant to grow on its own(no pruning , no trimming) eventually some leaves have to go. On top of that too much rain, I trim all such leaves, especially if the are less than 10" from the ground.
I think you are doing the right thing by NOT fertilizing. I would 've done the same. Let them start bearing some fruits then give them a light dose.
By the end of the season, my tomato plants have lost about the lower 18 inches of leaves. I am in such a different climate than you, I don't know how this translates, but, I will say if the plants are otherwise vigorous then losing some lower leaves is nothing to worry about and in fact, trying to stop it might be a losing battle.
Impossible to advise you. You need a soil test to determine if you need to fertilize.
I have a soil test done annually, and get fertilizer recommendations. If my soil has adequate N-P-K when I plant, I am advised to not add (side dress) fertilizer during the summer, as watermelon does not need it. (Not a big user of N, and P & K will stay in place in your soil through the growing season.)
Spend the $15 for a soil test from your state Ag. college for a test and fertilizer recommendations and forget asking for opinions from people who have no idea where you even live.
I tell them what I am growing, and I am advised when and how much to fertilize onions, cucumbers, tomatoes, corn, beans, peppers, muskmelons, asparagus, and not to fertilize lettuce, carrots, radishes, and watermelons beyond the beginning of season basic fertilizer added to the whole garden.
The cost of the test will save you money you will otherwise spend on unneeded fertilizer.
Yes you can double the dose to get the 10 10 10. If they look like they are growing well your ok. Mine are really starting to run, but I grow in containers and the fertilizer requiremants are different. Growing in the ground requires less fertilizer.
NEVER prune eggplant!
Zoysia, just ignore those websites that tell you to prune eggplant. It's a load of steaming manure. There is nothing to be confused about - take the advice of eggplant growers on this forum.
Every sucker or shoot you prune away is costing you eggplant fruit. Secondly, there is a perennial misconception about eggplants needing to ripen. Eggplants should never, ever be allowed to ripen. They are not tomatoes. Ripe eggplants are inedible.
Why are indeterminate tomatoes pruned? Well, because if you're an intensive grower with limited space, you'd stake them, train them vertically, and cram as many tomato plants as you can into that space. You're basically converting horizontal space to vertical space, with a significant drop in production per plant, but this is compensated for by increased production per square foot.
When space is not an issue, and fungal problems are minor, pruning is unnecessary at best and deterimental at worst. A healthy, bushy plant, whether that is a tomato, eggplant, or pepper, will yield you the most fruits.
Squash bug eggs!!! I just got done inspecting my butternut plants for them and found five clusters. Inspect all of your leaves and you are sure to find more. Like others said soak the plants and the adults will crawl up to dry out on the leaves. That is how I hunt them. lol.
Thanks digdirt, that sounds pretty reasonable. I'll cut off the water for a day or so and hope they scare over. One other thing I forgot to mention is that I gave them a little miracle grow yesterday. Do you think that may be related in some way? Would spraying the cracks with a little hydrogen peroxide be helpful?
Thanks digdirt, that sounds pretty reasonable. I'll cut off the water for a day or so and hope they scare over. One other thing I forgot to mention is that I gave them a little miracle grow yesterday. Do you think that may be related in some way? Would spraying the cracks with a little hydrogen peroxide be helpful?
Maybe it's yellow jackets or some other type of wasp taking care of them for you. On numerous occasions I've watched yellow jackets hunting, killing, and flying away with cabbage worms. I've also watched them doing the same thing with asparagus beetle larvae and also, unfortunately, with swallowtail butterfly caterpillars.
Rodney
Stress, probably inconsistent water. Watermelons, contrary to popular opinion, don't like an abundance of water. We have had a wet spring and summer this year and the poorest excuse for watermelons I have had in over 60 years. Not unhappy tho, Things that have been "iffy" for years are producing in abundance.
Thanks farmerdill! I've never had much luck growing watermelon, so I'm not terribly shocked at this occurrence! Just hadn't experienced this particular problem......... LOL!
I use drip fertigation & mulch well, but may have got things too wet........ I dunno.....
And yes, if your garden is producing anything in these turbulent weather times, one should be grateful.
Direct seeding cukes is always the best option assuming it is done properly and at the right time. Same for most all members of the family.
Consistent studies and reports show that direct seeded cukes will always quickly catch up and surpass transplants, are less susceptible to early disease and pest problems, and often out-produce the transplants because all the early stress factors transplants have to deal with are avoided.
Dave
I always direct sow cukes. They are super easy to start this way and grow quickly. No need to start indoors which is a lot more work. The only issue I have is that the sprouts can be munched on by slugs so I sprinkle a little iron phosphate slug bait around them.
I usually sow them sometime in late June, which is on the late side, but that is because they grow faster than the tomatoes and I like them to mature at about the same time (for cucumber/tomato salads).