24,795 Garden Web Discussions | Vegetable Gardening

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woohooman San Diego CA zone 10a

The oil might kill the mites, but yes. You should rinse off the plants a few hours after applying soap, before letting them back in sunlight. Neem oil should take care of them. Best way to apply insecticidal soap is at dusk, rinse in morning.

Kevin

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aptz

Great ideas thanks Dave. I was planning on using drip tape which I beleive has standard spacing but emitters may be a better way to go. And, yeah I do think grouping plants into like watering needs and having valves for individual lines may be a significant part of the answer.

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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

Even with drip tape all you have to do is snip a couple of extra holes near the water hungry plant. You aren't locked into the standard spacing.

Dave

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zeuspaul(9b SoCal)

The Mother Jones info is dated. Perhaps it is why Kellogg changed the product. Amend is now OMRI listed and OMRI listed products do not contain biosolids/sludge composted or otherwise.. I have some of the old product and the new. The label is different and so is the smell.

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williammorgan(6b)

Thanks for the link. I will definitely look into neem oil. Sorry I took so long to reply. After I did that strenuous project I went onto another one...TAXES! lol totally drained me in more ways than one.

I've grown Golden Bantam before. It's very small. Funny there's a 3 Stooges episode where Curly was biting on the cuckoo clock's weights and after Moe confronts him he say he thought it was Golden Bantam which is about the same size.

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williammorgan(6b)

Yeah Andy, corn is really sensitive. I figure I only have last year's seed to lose. I could replant later. Oak leaves aren't out yet but are starting here. Traditionally you plant when they're the size of squirrel's ears. However you still can get some cold so it;'s always a good idea to have something like straw or row covers to protect them over night.

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triciagrace07

Thank u! Good to know, I'll get it and stir fry

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sunnibel7 Md 7(7)

You also show signs of having something farmerdill told me last year was called brown bead. Cut out the browned sections there, they don't taste good. (You probably were going to do that, anyway :) )

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pnbrown

Since it is there, and it's a small area, I'd leave it and see what happens. Perhaps do not mix it in, and try a large-seeded crop like potato, sun choke, runner bean etc. if it works out poorly you could remove the sand later.

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lilydude

I've been adding sand to heavy clay soil for over 40 years, and it always improves plant growth. I grow some of the rarest and most difficult plants on Earth in clay soil amended with sand. It is best if the sand makes up at least 25% of the soil by volume. Don't listen to the hysteria; just try it yourself. The main problem is that you need to wait until the clay is workable: not too wet, not too dry.

But remember that there are many other variables that you need to worry about, such as adjusting soil acidity and providing fertilizer and water at the right times. Hopefully, there is plenty of sun in that area, or you aren't going to have much luck with veggies.

If you want to understand how sand interacts with clay and silt to make soil, Google "soil triangle". Loam and sandy loam soils are the best garden soils for general-purpose gardening. If you have clay loam, you can make loam or sandy loam by adding sand. If you have pure clay, you probably need to replace it with purchased soil. My rule of thumb: any soil which produces a good crop of weeds or grass can be amended to make good garden soil.

One of the best things about using sand is that the improvement in your soil is permanent, because sand does not decompose like compost. So you won't have to spend the rest of your life lugging compost and digging it in. On the other hand, it's always a good idea to add a little compost every year. Mulching with compost is the easiest way to do this, and helps to keep the soil cool and moist.

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feethanddooth

i do sweet peas and do 4 per square. any more would be a mess

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aptz

In the past I've planted well over 9 seeds per square for beans and have gotten excellent results. It really turned the area into a jungle of beans. I wouldn't recommend doing more than 9 seeds per square, but I've really been poor at thinning in the past (still not my strongest area). But, we did get a number of large harvests. One of the things about intensive gardening you do likely get less per plant than what you likely would get if you didn't plant intensively, but because you have more plants in a given area you often get more from the area. That said, intensive gardening does require the soil to be in really good shape and to give proper care to the plants. Also, don't expect to be taking many photos of your harvest and having large sized items. Intensive gardening and giant pumpkins don't go together.

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zeedman Zone 5 Wisconsin

"Sorry, but I've got a bad case of cabin fever......"

Nah, that's just gardener's frost bite. ;-) Got a pretty bad case of it myself. I'm wondering if all of the transplants I've got indoors will get planted on time, or whether they will die waiting for good weather (as most of them did last year).

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wertach zone 7-B SC

OWW Zeedman, that hurts when you baby them, then lose them!

I just raised the lights again on my tomatoes and peppers, I started from seed 4 weeks ago.

I was planning to plant them this week, under a hoop, but the weather is too bad. They are getting too big for the solo cups and no end of bad weather in sight.

I'm going to run out of head-space for the lights and I'm probably going to have to re-pot them again. If I do I'll have to rig up lights somewhere else unless it warms enough to harden them off outside for the second time........

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seysonn(8a WA/HZ 1)

Just this past Thursday alone we got about 2" of rain. It rains almost constantly up here. And the thing is that we get NO run off, because the rain is very gentle. It never pours down like down in GA. That is why I have raised bed with well drained soil. I have also covered the beds with black plastic , leaving just a 8" circle hole for the tomatoes. So most of the water runs off.

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terry_neoh(5b)

If you get standing water in the moat, can you drain it? Use a hose for a syphon? Bail with a bucket?

Here is how we grow tomatoes when it's overly wet.

Here is a link that might be useful: Floating garden

This post was edited by terry_neoh on Sat, Apr 19, 14 at 14:06

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sunnibel7 Md 7(7)

I never really thought about it and don't recall it ever coming up. I would mostly just eyeball them for healthiness and decide based on that. Are the roots pliable, not brittle and dry? Are they free of mold and not slimy? Then they are probably good to plant.

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bananastand(4b)

I checked the brand last night-- it's Dutch Valley. They are sealed in plastic and covered in dirt, so hard to inspect them too directly.

Here's what they look like:

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seysonn(8a WA/HZ 1)

Potatoes are just like tomatoes (first cousins) . They can grow in a wide pH range ( 5.5 to 6.8 ?) . But usually they(potato farmers) make potato soil more acidic( low pH about 6) that is just to prevent scabs not because of productivty or plant's health. Since you are not going to sell your crop, a few scabs is not going to matter much. Just grow them in the same pH range as you do tomatoes, peppers,..

What may affect potato productivity is POTASH for better tubing. So fertilize with a high "K" fertilizer.

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terry_neoh(5b)

Add some crushed dolomotic limestone (agricultural lime) with your potting mix. This will help neutrilize the soil if it is too acid, and it will add magnesium.

Many plants, especially solanaceae (tomatoe, peppers, potatoes, eggplant) need magnesium to form chlorophyll (the green stuff in plants). It, quite literally, can't hurt.

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thecuriouspeasant

Slimy Okra I think you're spot on when you say:

"Overwatering compounded by too-cool nights can easily do them in, usually by triggering a fungal infection. That would also explain why your okra, cantaloupe and cucumber seedlings are doing the worst of all."

I *think* this is what has happened. Everything else seems to be doing splendidly! Well darn, I was quite fond of those heirloom tomatoes. Guess I'll just start more seeds this weekend. You live, you learn.

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Shnookums

Thanks so much Tracydr and everyone else.
I planted the seeds about a week ago in egg cartons and have been watering them once in the morning and once in the afternoon, none have sprouted yet but I'm sure they'll take some time.
Cross your fingers for me! :) x

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tracydr(9b)

Crossing my fingers! If any of your seeds are for peppers you may want to put them in a warm spot so that the soil is about 75-80 degrees. Tomatoes, too. Move them off the warm place when you see them pop up.
Celery ,parsley and cilantro (coriander) also do well in fall. Arugula is very easy, just sprinkle seed on the ground and keep it damp for several days.

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nancyjane_gardener(Zone 8ish North of San Francisco in the "real" wine country)

Oh my! Zone 2???? I find it amazing to see what you are able to grow in zone 2! LOL Good for you! Nancy

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wayne_5 zone 6a Central Indiana

nancyjane, Perhaps you could save one bed for winter planting. Cover crops are nice for beds not in use.

I planted the first planting of sweet corn [of 7] a couple days ago. Also we planted part of the potatoes, set out the rest of the early broccoli, set out the early butterhead lettuce and spinach, and sowed beets and carrots. The ground is working up nicely.

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planterjeff(7b Grant Park Atlanta)

I am In Atlanta, and I can say that our weather has been having a few uncharacteristically cold nights of recent. And by recent I mean all month. I think you will see them grow healthier over the next three weeks when our soil temps get well above the 60 degree point. Right now our soil has been hovering around 45-50 which can be a little cold for them. Especially if you started them indoors.

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mosquitogang201

Thanks for the help everyone. I will look into amending the soil and plant again in a few weeks. I have always had good luck growing ornamentals and trees in my soil but this is my first year vegetable gardening.

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