23,948 Garden Web Discussions | Vegetable Gardening
Pine needles work well for me, luckily my neighbor has a lot of pines and he rakes up the needles for me and I give him veggies in return. Grass clipping from my yard also work well, they don't get slimy unless they're over 4"+ deep, will dry out fast in the sun. Also collect neighborhood leaf bags in the fall but these are used mainly for compost mixing. Not sure if I'd ever use pine bark? Pine needles work great for strawberries and placed under ripening cantaloupes too.
You have to use what is locally available, free or at reasonable cost. When I was gardening in GA, there was plenty of pine needle and other tree leaves everywhere. I never paid for mulch.
Wood chips is fine as mulch around the trees and shrubs but not in the garden, for the reasons already mentioned. On the other hand , I personally never liked things like card boards and newspapers as mulch. They seem too foreign plus they get slimy and mushy when wet. Grass clippings I can tolerate. But the best mulch material are: Straw, Hey, Pine needles and tree leaves(Oak, Maple..). All of those will become excellent soil amendments.
what is the production if eaves and pods for a tree? I do not dare try them, but I will visit a friend in Zone 9 for Xmas, and I am bringing him seeds (readily found on Ebay). He has lemons, olives, and fejioa and it does not frost every year. I guess that there they will lose their leaves but survive outside. He also has rabbits and lots of space, so he may plant a dozen.
For the Ca in unavailable form: all one needs is to eat the leaves with a little vinegar and a fraction of the Ca will be absorbed (or lemon juice, or anything acidic).
I mix 1 quart cold strong coffee,a tablespoon dish soap and 2 tablespoons veg.oil
It is best to spray directly on them early in the morn when they are more active
They normally congrigate around tomatoes and other ripping fruit
You have to sneak up on them as they hide at the slightest movement
it also kills the nymps if sprayed under the leaves
it works on squash bugs also
Some growers use boiled tobbaco instead of coffee
Charlie
I sprayed garlic tea all around the bed containing the carrots, the fencing and the wood of the raised bed. We'll see if that has the desired effect. I have seen the (?) bunny in the garden several times just hanging out in the shade, eating some fallen pears, but so far, no more damage to the fencing on the carrot bed.
Maybe in about 7-8 weeks assuming that winter doesn't come on too soon. Be sure to thin them out well as beet seeds are little seed clumps that will send up 2-3 beet sprouts. Carefully thin these clumps down to one seedling without distrubing the remaining root, and then thin these single seedlings out to about 3" apart.
Rat traps 3. dogs 1. But rats were still munching on tomatoes at night.
So we went to second generation poison stations after conferring with a professional. The rats are supposed to feel sick and stay in their burrows and die rather than run around and die outside in the open.
There is nothing we can do about neighborhood rats but maybe we can cut down on them in the yard. time will tell.
Recently we have had good luck getting tomatoes as they reach the breaker stage- before the rats get them.
Cats are definitely the best answer. Before we got ours, the mouse population was destroying our machinery. They ruined a lawn mower, ate the electrical parts of our truck and - they got into our camper and procreated gangbusters! That damage was unbelievable. I was vacuuming up baby mice.
Once we moved out to our farm property full time, we put out a welcome sign to cats. Ours are all neutered and are indoor/outdoor. Mostly outdoor but they come in regularly for 'lap time'. They take care of squirrels, rabbits, moles etc. and are care-free for the most part. (We do feed them but only mornings.)
Dan,
Well not just the proto-squash, actually the flower itself too. The whole thing is quite edible. I regularly pick the male squash blossoms and eat them in a variety of ways.
The reason I am suspecting the cool weather is because last year, in the fall I planted some acorn squash, mostly as an experiment to see if they would be able to give me something before it got too cold, and after the SVB were gone. They started off real good, but unfortunately where I planted them ended up getting very little sun later in the fall, and when it got cooler. I noticed they started producing many female flowers while the plants were not very big. Maybe the cool weather tells them to hurry up and start producing fruit so it can reproduce.
I have all female blossoms on my bn too and it's sad, every blossom just drops off, not ONE squash on a most vigorous, and healthy vine. It's too late now, I'm sure, if even ONE flower manages to become pollenated. It's very disappointing. Last year I managed to harvest at least 4 per plant. Not amazing but better then zero:(
oops, correction, I think the blossoms are all male, no bump under the flower.
This post was edited by christripp on Fri, Aug 23, 13 at 8:29
Moringa Oleifera is a marginal die back perennial here at 1000 feet, but we are far away from the equator. We get light frosts a few times a year.
Yes Moringa S. is supposed to be a bit hardier.
How cold does it get?
I suppose you could design on a south-facing slope with thermal mass, reflecting ponds Sepp Holzer style, but maybe more effort than it is worth to grow something marginal.
There is a group in Spain, I believe, looking to breed Moringa O for a mediterranean climate.
Most popular bell is Green to red, followed by green to yellow, green to orange, purple to red, white to red. I don't know of any bell that starts yellow, altho some of the white bells like Blushing Beauty may be ivory at an early stage. I also don't know any bell that grows upright, so I also suspect you have a hot pepper. Definitely not a Golden Belle or Golden Cal Wonder.
Actually, I found a chart I drew up and it looks like I planted mesculin in the box that bolted like crazy. Checking it out, looks like it's the mustard tendergreens that were the culprit.
Just thought you might like to look over text and photos all about growing lettuce. It's a great presentation and very informative. From the link below, click on "Techniques" then on "Lettuce". EVerything there is based on the organic methods of the great horticulturist, Alan Chadwick. If you follow the techniques closely, you'll have much less bolting to deal with. One of the most important things to remember is that when you transplant seedlings into the final beds, never get water on their leaves for three days or so. Just water around the roots after planting out, and that should hold them until you can water overhead later. The reason is that water on leaves stimulates leaf growth, but what you want is for the plants to get their roots well established first.
Here is a link that might be useful: Alan Chadwick