23,948 Garden Web Discussions | Vegetable Gardening
Sorry, I meant it was too late for me in zone 5, I should have started the broccoli in July. By the time I finished that sentence, I had forgotten where you were. I'm very distracted these days. I'm saving broccoli seed I bought this year for next, don't think I'll plant spinach this fall (may do lettuce) if I ever catch up with everything else around here (still haven't renovated the strawberries or pruned the raspberries).
I've never tried the burpless cukes.
Agree with the above posters that dusting/spraying the stem with Sevin has contributed most towards deterring the SVB. I have used this practice for several years with great success... being careful to dust ONLY the stem. However, after a rain the dust or spray needs to be reapplied. Also, after the stem reaches about 18 inches, I typically let the SVB's have the plant.
I believe the dust works more of a deterrent -- keeping the moth from laying an egg on the stem. For those who do not like Sevin, I am sure there are alternatives, perhaps some which are organic alternatives. I have not tried the (non-organic) synthetic pyrethrins type dusting powders yet but I would guess that these would work just fine. (Check the label.)
zackey: I slice mine open as far up the stem as they are hollow and as far down as the roots allow - usually 5 or so inches, depending on the size of the plant. The cut needs to be straight in the direction of growth so that it doesn't cut across at all. Then I pry it apart and kill whatever I see inside and generally scrub around with the razor blade, again, in the direction of growth, until I am satisfied that nothing could have survived. Then I wash out the insides and cover everything with dirt. Then I water every day. It seems to work as long as you plan on losing half of your plants.
This post was edited by Creek-side on Fri, Aug 16, 13 at 21:56
Most flowering alliums are frown from bulbs but it is possible to grow them from seed.
Hybrids will not come true from seed of course. Sow ripe seeds as soon as possible or store in a fridge and sow in spring or indoors. Without cold storage the shelf life of the seeds is very short. Most will germinate within 12 weeks. It will take several years for plants grown from seed to reach the flowering size.
There are many 'how-to' discussions on the Allium forum that the search will pull up as well as into on the Bulbs forum and the Perennials forum.
Dave
Thank you gentlemen.
Allium flowers and seed pod are very much like onion(Round globe formation). I thought that it should not require refrigeration fo dormancy purpose.
I will try to germinate some right away and will refrigerate the rest for spring.
ronjason, I'd be saving the seed and planting it in the spring. Lettuce seeds are usually true to the parent unless there's a lot of sow's thistle weed (wild lettuce) growing nearby. Really, you have nothing to lose if you sow it as soon as it is ready, you may have some young lettuce before freeze up.
ronjason, I'd be saving the seed and planting it in the spring. Lettuce seeds are usually true to the parent unless there's a lot of sow's thistle weed (wild lettuce) growing nearby. Really, you have nothing to lose if you sow it as soon as it is ready, you may have some young lettuce before freeze up.
They may or may not be 'pickling' cukes. Possible? Sure, but there is no way to tell for sure as they are all deformed due to poor growing conditions. The ones in the picture all suffered from inconsistent soil moisture - mostly too dry - levels while developing.
Dave
Here is a link that might be useful: Pictures of normal pickling cucumbers
Weather doesn't read the calendar. Frost dates are just an average, and it's always possible to have a longer growing season.
Since peppers are edible at any stage, the OP has plenty of time to get some green peppers to a useful size, particularly if the weather turns warm. I personally have little use for green peppers, and if the OP only wants red ones, it's too late for that. But a lot of people do like green peppers, and if the OP is one of them, I'd say to leave the plants and not write them off just when they might start producing.
But obviously, this is a personal decision, not a right-or-wrong thing.
This post was edited by ltilton on Thu, Aug 15, 13 at 15:18
Thanks so much donnabaskets! Yeah, we never know what mother nature will serve up! Gardening offers up a challenge that a lot of folks aren't willing to take on, but if you truly derive enjoyment from gardening, you'll continue to learn & grow in your hobby...... Next year will be better! ;)
OBTW............. my hens say "thank you".......
Kats, just to add to my first post above - My local Aug 23rd planting date for a fall garden is approximately 8 weeks before my area's first frost date, so to follow my schedule you'll need to adjust your planting time accordingly for your area's first average frost date.
Four plants in a 20cm pot? So each one has 5x5 cm of root space? They got a few inches tall and then stopped? No big surprise. You've got the equivalent of a foot-tall basil plant in that small pot. In my basil plot, the plants are at least a foot or a foot-and-a-half apart. Has this worked out for you before? I don't think it would work for me.
yep too much all at once, with my pumpkins i look at them careful, and if they are nearing maturity then i watch the weather, but the fruit in your case still very much edible.
len
Here is a link that might be useful: lens garden page
The main will probably grow laterals.
The broken part is a history, unless it had previously grown roots. Then you could cover them, water them, fertilize them ..
I feel for you. Today I was caging the last of the peppers and broke the top (flowering) of a jalapeno plant off just b/c I had 1 little branch under the bottom ring when I pushed down, though I was supporting the top of the plant to guide it through the ring. Should have done them when they were smaller, but some of the cages were in an old trailer I couldn't get open, needed DH to open the door.