23,948 Garden Web Discussions | Vegetable Gardening

I wonder if they're sent back to the seed companies so they can be stored under proper humidity and temperature controls for resale the next season. Most regular retail shops wouldn't have the facilities and the seed companies would likely want to protect their reputations, given it's their brand on the packets. Just musing. I have no problem buying older seed (for many things, not all) as long as the germination rate is still high.

They(nurseries) stop selling for economic reasons, not because of this law, that law, or seeds becoming old.
For them the floor space/shelves are valuable. So why bother to keep something on the shelf that practically nobody is interested in buying it. That is why some stores have a clearance sale( like 29 cents per packet). The seed company does not want some odd numbers of seeds to be returned to them. It will be more costly for them to do all the paper work and handling. So they authorize the resellers to do whatever they wish with the left over.

Unfortunately, this year I learned what a tomato fruitworm looks like.

I don't have good luck with Italian pole beans

I will only plant bush beans, not pole beans

I hate SVB

I hate rabbits

Too much rain is worse than not enough

Keep better eyes on my tomato plants for disease

Standing at the garden and staring will NOT make it grow faster.

Start certain peppers and tomato seeds earlier

I can buy carrots very cheap at the store

Understand the varieties that I plant

One summer squash plant is plenty for two people

I like the Florida weave for my tomatoes

Take care of weeds on a regular basis so its not so overwhelming

I like the Silver Queen Corn

ltilton has a point... I don't recall planting (or harvesting) Charentais, but I sometimes buy seed on a whim,when I find it cheap...... & I do recall a cantaloupe seed I started as a transplant that didn't do well in the garden & ended up in the compost .......... Though this melon has an oval shape, where Charentais appear round...

Not all. I have a Charentais called Escorial that has an oval shape, specially when young.

Westy - you need more space. LOTS more space.

I know we need more space - this is our daughter's condo in Rock Creek area - we're building in Erie but the lots still aren't big enough for me - 25 feet between houses - shallow front yards, back yard is like a large city lot. I wanted to go to the mountains - but it's WAY more expensive up there and Colorado ANYWHERE is more expensive than Illinois. I belong in the north woods of Minnesota where I was born! (except the season for growing veggies there is about 3 months.

Westy

In my cool climate, Annie Oakley has been by far the best-yielding. I suppose that may not be the case everywhere. Clemson Spineless is a dud here.

Grew CS when I lived in SoCal, and was pretty happy with it. Kept me in okra all Summer, but then, I had a lot of plants. It grew to over 6' tall there, with few branches..

As mentioned by Slimy_okra, the choice of okra may depend upon the location & climate. In my Northern location, summers are hot, but short... so I need a variety that bears quickly, and can tolerate a few cool nights. "Pentagreen" has proven to be reliable for me. It bears quickly, and will branch heavily if given space (I use 18-24" spacing between plants).

Tried to grow CS when I moved here, but it doesn't do well in this climate. That was the case for quite a few varieties that I tried, including some that were described as "good for the North". Most would start to get leaf browning just about when they started flowering, and only bear for a week or two before dying. "Pentagreen" has proven to be more robust... I recommend it for those of us who get snow & summer in equal measure.

"I knew a gardener was being born." Good on you, Susan! Not every child has contact with gardening at home.

Our daughter wanted to bring on of my big tomato starts to school for show-and-tell this spring (Grade 1). The Black Krim was ready to go out and had flowers already, so I just put transplanting off a couple of days so she could take it to school. I said they could open up one or two flowers to look at the structure and tip it out of the pot to see the roots. Apparently her classmates found the roots the most fascinating part. :)

Susanzone5, that is such a cool story! Thanks for sharing. That is why I started this thread. You just never know what cool plant might make it indoors. Glad you got to share some of your gardening with your students. I love the idea of bringing a plant for show-and-tell! I bet if more kids were exposed to plants, we'd have more kids interested in gardening and eating veggies.

What makes the wood spongeworthy (ha ha) is that there be fungi in it. No fungi, hugel does not work. And there is a difficulty in that most fungi eat either hardwood or conifer. They have very specialized enzymes. If you are in a place without conifers, and you bury dry pine, it might not work. Really, hugel was invented to get something out of large rotting logs or firewood which had taken too much rain. If the log is rotten, there are short term benefits as well as long. The benefits are essentially a strong micorrhyzal flora, lowering water and fertilizer needs. You also have a long term barrier (leaky of course) for all your percolating chemical fertilizers, and the wood is slightly more water retentive than clay, and significantly more than sand.

Based on what glib says, framing lumber won't workin a hugel or buried deep in a raised bed as that kind of wood isn't spongeworthy or doesn't have a lot of fungi breaking it down.

Maybe I'll just find another use for this junk wood.

Those are sort of old wounds that have healed.
Maybe some slugs (or other insects scratched/ ate the skin.

Thanks! they are really not hurting anything... so for now I'll leave them be... there is a insect war going on out there (I've seen some pretty amazingly huge insects out there this year) so hopefully there will be some casualties in my favor.

Go, Dan! I am betting they will be fine. I have found in past years that I actually get more snaps (and better tasting ones) from the fall crop than from the spring one....the weather only gets cooler as time goes on. By the time the plants start blooming, you should be over the hump. (or close)

Thanks, Donna. They're lookin' good. Actually, we have a cold front on the way, which will reduce the heat stress on them. That's where the temperature drops to the mid-90s. Get out your sweaters! Yeah, that's what a mid-August cold front in central Texas looks like ...

If you can get 15 bells off a plant that size you're doing just fine...especially that far north.

We like green peppers and we'll probably grab a few. It's just been fun to watch.

I know every time I work in the garden I stink. My DW says "you smell like the outside."
Sometimes I don't even sweat, I'm just harvesting a few tomatoes, and I still end up with the outside/garden smell.

Smell, pleasant or offensive is a subjective thing
A lot of people love the small of tomato leaves. I do not care one way or the other.

Daconil is sometimes now labeled Fung-oil. Active ingredient is chlorothalonil. Probably the most effective very-wide-spectrum fungicide available to home growers.

This post was edited by ltilton on Sat, Aug 10, 13 at 20:05

Depending on where you live in Zone 7, your best bet might be to plant a new crop of cucs. You have plenty of time to make a good crop. In my area, once the plants have been producing about two months, they start to succumb to all kinds of pests (pickleworms especially) and fungii. I think they are just old and tired, so I cut my losses, pull them out, and replant. If I had room, I would have a new crop ready to come on, but I don't. The break from them makes us glad to have them again in a few weeks.

Too bad they let it get that size... Magda, when picked at a fairly small size (no more than 1/3 the size of that one) are absolutely delicious.

Edie

True Magda is an excellent mideastern zucchini as is Barq. this one is definitely not Magda or any one of middle eastern varieties.

These types including Basima, Alexandria etc light green with no grey zuke markings even when oversize.