23,948 Garden Web Discussions | Vegetable Gardening

Go, Dan! I am betting they will be fine. I have found in past years that I actually get more snaps (and better tasting ones) from the fall crop than from the spring one....the weather only gets cooler as time goes on. By the time the plants start blooming, you should be over the hump. (or close)

Thanks, Donna. They're lookin' good. Actually, we have a cold front on the way, which will reduce the heat stress on them. That's where the temperature drops to the mid-90s. Get out your sweaters! Yeah, that's what a mid-August cold front in central Texas looks like ...

If you can get 15 bells off a plant that size you're doing just fine...especially that far north.

We like green peppers and we'll probably grab a few. It's just been fun to watch.

I know every time I work in the garden I stink. My DW says "you smell like the outside."
Sometimes I don't even sweat, I'm just harvesting a few tomatoes, and I still end up with the outside/garden smell.

Smell, pleasant or offensive is a subjective thing
A lot of people love the small of tomato leaves. I do not care one way or the other.

Daconil is sometimes now labeled Fung-oil. Active ingredient is chlorothalonil. Probably the most effective very-wide-spectrum fungicide available to home growers.

This post was edited by ltilton on Sat, Aug 10, 13 at 20:05

Depending on where you live in Zone 7, your best bet might be to plant a new crop of cucs. You have plenty of time to make a good crop. In my area, once the plants have been producing about two months, they start to succumb to all kinds of pests (pickleworms especially) and fungii. I think they are just old and tired, so I cut my losses, pull them out, and replant. If I had room, I would have a new crop ready to come on, but I don't. The break from them makes us glad to have them again in a few weeks.

Too bad they let it get that size... Magda, when picked at a fairly small size (no more than 1/3 the size of that one) are absolutely delicious.

Edie

True Magda is an excellent mideastern zucchini as is Barq. this one is definitely not Magda or any one of middle eastern varieties.

These types including Basima, Alexandria etc light green with no grey zuke markings even when oversize.

If the end of the ears continue to not develop, I have to wonder if they had enough phosphorus and potassium [in relation to N] to develop the grain. How are any other garden crops doing?

I am wondering if the problem is drought damage...see link.

Here is a link that might be useful: tip fill

This post was edited by wayne_5 on Fri, Aug 9, 13 at 22:05

Given the adequate spacing I'm inclined to agree with Wayne, probably not enough water. The bottom part of that ear is fully mature. The tip 40% indicates a lack of some factor most likely water.

Water deficit is easy to see on corn. The leaves wilt and curl at first during the hottest part of the day. When they are wilting most of the day you will get ears like that picture.

A picture of the plants might help if further assistance is needed.

Thanks guys, I will just have to keep checking. The baby ones grew rapidly but these sicilian varietys I planted later and seem to take longer.

Thanks guys, I will just have to keep checking. The baby ones grew rapidly but these sicilian varietys I planted later and seem to take longer.

Generally, potatoes need about 3 months( plus /minus 2 weeks) .
So I would plant the fall crop about 90 to110 days before my first frost date. Also, consider planting early varieties so that you won't be caught by surprise if you get a real early frost.

P.S>
I WOULD USE THE BEST OF ANY THING FOR PLANTING, JUST LIKE BREEDING IN ANIMALS WORLD.

Yukon Gold is an early variety of potato, which means you should have plenty of time to get a crop in.

Also keep in mind that the relevant factor is soil temp, not air temp. Plant them deep and use cold water, also a mulch to keep the soil cool and damp.

As the temperatures here get into the triple digits with full sun, and don't drop much below 80F overnight, I have to say that leaving a drip system on continuously wouldn't hurt anyone here a bit. I have large plants in heavily mulched patches that still need regular soaking every two or three days. Large plants (8-foot cherry tomatoes, 4-foot peppers) suck large amounts of water out of the soil in these temperatures, and frankly it just has to be replaced. Mulch keeps the water from evaporating from the soil, but it sure doesn't keep plants from sucking it out of the soil.

But I agree that if your patch is well drained, you have nothing to worry about, whatever your climate. If you have mud, that's a problem.

Thanks everyone! Most plants are looking pretty good a couple days later. I may have lost 1 tomato plant, but it's the one I've had horrible blossom end rot problems with.

I think the OP made it clear he was leaving conventional gardening behind. Those mineral salts will disrupt the soil food web.

"Punch" is not necessarily desirable with most crops. A low-dose but steady diet of nutrients - regardless of the type of source - is usually preferable.

Dave

I took this pic yesterday morning, and he was still there in the evening when I checked. He picked the wrong plant if he wants camouflage.

I have some (or at least one) in my garden. I tried to catch him just so I could look at him closer but he jumped between leaves before I could.

The bug is a brown marmorated stink bug. It's a nymph (youngster).

The bands on the insect's antennae indicate that it's a brown marmorated stick bug. Hand pick and kill them all. That said, I think your cukes are deteriorating from old age. They are not long-lived plants.

Yep... Firefox with the adblock plus add-on. GW lags every now and then, but all those issues you mentioned, seysonn... I never get that.

Kevin

Thanks , I switched to Firefox.