23,948 Garden Web Discussions | Vegetable Gardening

I don't burn my plants. But I place 150 gallons of water in there to absorb and release the heat.

I have 2 of that type of greenhouse. they do require at least twice daily attention. Mine are wide open even at night if temps will be 38 degrees plus. I have put real small plants in mine when it was still cold out. I put an electric heater with thermostat set at 40 degrees when the temps were in the 20s. That size plant in nighttime temps in the 30s would be fine opened up. 78 degrees with sun on it would be well over a 100 inside. You should have a min/max thermometer to keep track of the daily temps. These greenhouses are not set it up and forget it.

Liam- Sounds like transplant shock. Was it a store-bought plant or did you start it yourself? How big was the plant? Was it hardened off prior to planting? And what are your temperatures like? If the soil is moist, don't water again until it dries out.

Rodney

Just wondering, what zone are you in? Are your nightly temps still in the 40's?

I'd keep shaking your pea trellis, and blasting with water spray. The aphid lifecycle time can be about a month, so you may not see results for a week or two. Though it's a good bet something nearby has an aphid infestation, and you're just getting the spillover from that infestation on your peas.

Beans can certainly be infested with aphids, but not necessarily the same aphids that like peas.

The good news is my garden is only 4x8. It's probably my spinach. I'm never planting spinach again, I've had nothing but bug problems...it is getting ready to bolt in about a month so I think I'm going to get it out now, it's been nothing but buggy. My squashes are still small and no bugs, my bush brand and leaf lettuce appear fine, and nothing wrong with the tomatoes. The spinach is nearby and so is the lettuce so I will spray the lettuce down too.

Yep just a bit of sun scorch and tip death from transport. Many trim that off. Search here or Google 'trimming onions'.

Dave

Looks pretty much identical to mine. 10 days is not a long time, it'll be 4 months until onion harvest, garlic sprouts stronger because of the bulb.

Some people are never happy no matter what is offered to them.

We didn't have the option to either edit or delete on the old GW. We had a few minutes to preview - which many didn't use anyway and then it was cast in stone. And why would you need to edit your reply after a week anyway?

Dave

Yes, I think it is a brilliant policy. Well, at least a smart one. Because if you change your mind about a post a week after you wrote it, you probably ought to write a separate post to explain yourself. A post that generates responses, and is then quietly changed to make those subsequent responses inappropriate or irrelevant, really isn't fair to those responders. This is a conversation, and in a spoken conversation, you don't get to go back and unsay what you said. In fact, for that reason, one might wonder why we're given a week to do edits. If you screw up, then just apologize, post a correction, and move on.

And thank you Tamara for being on top of this.

Thank you digdirt2. I didn't realize that squash cross pollinated that easy. I guess the taste will be an adventure!!!

The first one looks like a Kakai pumpkin; there is another variety almost the same. The white one kind of looks like a white pumpkin but kind of looks like a spaghetti squash. Since these are volunteers there is a huge chance they crossed with other c. pepo varieties last year. They cross up to about 1/2 mile. Any variety of the same species. Volunteer squash aren't usually a good idea except for decoration.

You could try planting for a fall crop once the hot weather breaks. On about the same latitude here and it works for me. Not as productive as spring planting but you still get some. What's you earliest frost date in N. Texas?

Dave

Anytime you grow potatoes in anything other than the ground they never get enough water. They need tons of water. they never produce as much as in the ground. Search the mother earth news article on testing different methods.

I am not familiar with the ortho but when we have spider mites, we spray the leaves when we water and that seems to help. I live in a dry climate and the mites are generally worse when we have not had rain for a while.

Two different dilutions of Acetamiprid in the two different products but the trigger spray is the weaker one by far so there should be no issue there. Neither product lists spider mites that I can see but both are supposedly ok to use on squash up to 7 days prior to harvest.

So are you asking is it safe to use or safe to eat? If they survive the spraying and the spider mites don't kill them I can't see any reason why you should have to rip out the plants.

Dave

brass tacks. Most corn will support beans, but I dont think it will support squash.

American Indians planted corn, squash and beans in a row system with the corn in the middle of three bean plants with the squash on the outside, about five plants. The beans are 6 to 8 inches out from the corn and the squash is about the same distance from the corn. To be sure google Three sisters planting system.

Always get a complete soil test before adding lime or fertilizer. Compost is ok to add anytime.

It is lack of calcium uptake in the plants that causes BER. There can be sufficient calcium in the soil that never reaches the plant because water moves the calcium to the plant.

Uneven watering (not enuff water) causes the BER we normally see. As the plant grows so do the roots- which can extend 10ft out from where the stem goes into the ground. Move your watering spot out as the plant grows & water daily. Water the walkway.

Fwiw - I water my tomatoes twice a day when it is hot. I water the soil (not the plant) using buckets with small holes drilled in the sides that allows water to soak deeply into the soil.

I have also started using large (3gal) pots that already have quite large holes in them. I just pack the bottom with some leaves then some compost or coffee grounds so the water just seeps out.

I make sure to water between tomato plants. I use buckets to fill these pots, this also allows me to know just how much water I am giving my plants which turns out to be 6 gals when watered 2x/day; once in AM & once in evening. This also serves to avoid the splitting you see after a rain storm.

Tomatoes are as smooth as a baby's bottom :)

You are definitely overanalyzing this. The Mg in dolomite won't do any harm unless your soil is already very high in Mg. More importantly, I would test the pH to ensure that you haven't driven it too high (over 7.5). Keep it in the range of 6.0 to 7.5.

Some seeds do better than others if they are rained on. I definitely don't want lima bean seed rained on...they hate wet and cold soil.

I know this is an old thread, but in case others have the same question...you could lay a board or piece of wood over them. Just for a day or two, of course.