23,822 Garden Web Discussions | Vegetable Gardening

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lonmower(zone8 Western Oregon)

I am retired, so I get to do my watering in the morning. I am in the foothills of the coast range about halfway between Corvallis and Eugene. Tomatoes not doing so well this year. Not sure why(?) My garden plot is not fenced and THIS year I am dealing with very persistent, wily and hungry deer who are getting under (crawling?) netting over my raised beds. I just got a "Scare-Crow" sprinkler deterrent. See how that goes.

Yes it is kind of hot (no A/C) but I wouldn't trade this life for anywhere in the US of A

    Bookmark     July 23, 2013 at 6:52PM
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shermthewerm(8 PNW)

Sounds nice--I like that area. Maybe someday when I retire...can't live without a/c though. Never had it until 10 years ago, but I don't think I could go back.

Tomatoes are doing great here. Warmer & drier than usual.

Good luck with the scare-crow.

Cal, really wasn't trying to hijack your post, just thought it was funny that 2 Oregonians commented within a minute of each other. So, did you decide if you're going to pick a few of your serranos?

    Bookmark     July 23, 2013 at 8:23PM
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Creek-side(5)

Horse manure is the only fertilizer I have used on my garden for the last 50 years.

    Bookmark     July 23, 2013 at 6:54PM
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cugal(5b-6a NE Ks)

My experience was like zeedman's when he first used cow manure......... I've always used pine shavings/chicken manure from my hen's until this spring when I bought a large load of composted cow manure to use on a new garden spot. The weeds were freaking unbelieveable!!!!! Sure hope this get better with age!!

    Bookmark     July 23, 2013 at 8:07PM
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ltilton

In the last week or so, IA has been very hot, hasn't it?

    Bookmark     July 23, 2013 at 8:01PM
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Newatthis22

Here's a picture of a male flower.

    Bookmark     July 23, 2013 at 8:01PM
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donna_in_sask

Probably not, because a green pepper on a plant will turn into red (or other colour) when ripe, and you need fully ripe seeds for viability, to my knowledge anyway.

    Bookmark     July 23, 2013 at 7:05PM
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pnbrown

I agree, not enough time.

BTW, thanks for clarifying that you don't live in the river between TX and Mexico....

    Bookmark     July 23, 2013 at 7:32AM
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wayne_5 zone 6a Central Indiana

I agree...not enough time in most situations. I planted my last [7th] planting of 73 day corn on July 7th.

    Bookmark     July 23, 2013 at 12:08PM
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seysonn(8a WA/HZ 1)

WHAT TO PLANT, depend on your climate. Your zone 5 is not all that a good guideline. What is your HEAT ZONE? when is your first fall frost date ? How will be average temperature for the rest of season ? etc.
But , I think GENERALLY, you can plan on planting fall crops that do not need ripening up. Mostly could be greeneries in the cabbage family, turnips, fall radishes, or the so-called COOL CROPS.

    Bookmark     July 23, 2013 at 4:37AM
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SunshineZone7(7)

Maybe the question is what should you avoid? What else do the squash bugs like?

    Bookmark     July 23, 2013 at 10:20AM
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uscjusto

I have the same type of leaves. I'm in zone 9 and we've had a lot of 100+ days.
I think it's due to the hot dry weather that wilts the leaves in the day. The leaves bounce back but I can tell the wilting leaves the mottled effect.
My cuke still has new growth and has put out a bunch of blooms and 2 cucumbers developed.

    Bookmark     July 22, 2013 at 12:58PM
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sewobsessed

Sounds like you may have flea beetles.

    Bookmark     July 23, 2013 at 7:22AM
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gardenmom(z4 WA)

Thanks. I'll post over on the Harvest forum. I forgot about that group and just started here at my old standby.

    Bookmark     July 22, 2013 at 4:00PM
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glib(5.5)

Totally agree with Dave.

    Bookmark     July 22, 2013 at 11:48PM
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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

It is called BER (Blossom End Rot). You can read all about it over on the Growing Tomatoes forum here. I linked the FAQ on it for you below. If you type blossom end rot in the search here you'll find all kinds of discussions about it to read through.

Dave

Here is a link that might be useful: BER FAQ

    Bookmark     July 22, 2013 at 10:59PM
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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

if cutting back on the water will cause the squash to ripen more rapidly so they can be harvested before we leave.

No sorry. The only thing that may hasten ripening is root pruning, a common practice when fall quickly approaches. Since you don't indicate your location or garden zone we have no way of knowing if it is time to do that or not, I suspect not.

I assume you know that winter squash is normally harvested in the late fall after the vines begin to die and the stems on the squash are dry and brown? That said you can harvest it at any time you wish. It just won't taste the same nor store well.

Dave

    Bookmark     July 22, 2013 at 5:36PM
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oldkugirl

Thanks Dave, Thanks for the tip, I guess I'll just leave the drips on a timer while I'm gone and see what happens when I get back. I'm guessing they will probably do OK.

    Bookmark     July 22, 2013 at 10:38PM
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mandolls(4)

Yes - plug in lights are cheap and available. I buy them for $10-12 per 4 ft lamp not including the bulbs.

Ask for "shop lights"

    Bookmark     July 22, 2013 at 5:15PM
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seysonn(8a WA/HZ 1)

I would put them outside, indirect/defused light. And little by little more sun. UNLESS the temperatures are SIZZLING..

    Bookmark     July 22, 2013 at 10:07PM
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Deborah-SC(8a)

myluck -- I LOLd!!

    Bookmark     July 22, 2013 at 6:07PM
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myluck(5 In)

Deborah-sc,
kind of fits the name don't it. There is a reason.

    Bookmark     July 22, 2013 at 7:49PM
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Unknown creature!What is this on my tomato plant?!!
Posted by mommomsgarden(6/Jersey Girl!) July 22, 2013
12 Comments
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CaraRose

There are small parasitic wasps that lay their eggs on these guys. The young eat their way out and form cocoons on the outside of the hornworm. The weakened hornworm will die before being able to pupate, but the cocoons will hatch and more wasps will go out in the world and attack and feed on more hornworms.

    Bookmark     July 22, 2013 at 5:25PM
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jean001a(Portland OR 7b)

Those white things on hornworms aren't eggs. They are pupal cases.

Here's how it works:
The wasp eggs were inserted into the caterpillar.
The eggs hatched inside a well-provisioned cafeteria.
The wasp larvae ate until their next life stage.
The wasp larvae exited the caterpillar and formed pupae inside those white cases on the exterior of the caterpillar.
The next stage is when the adult wasps -- very tiny things - exit the pupal cases.

TaDa! Bio-control in action.

FWIW: I don't see a pupal case on the OP's image.
I think it's the end of one of the normal white lines on a tobacco hornworm..

    Bookmark     July 22, 2013 at 7:13PM
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Athenian(USDA 10B/Sunset 22)

Are those only the newer leaves?
If so, has anyone used Roundup (glyphosate) nearby?

Most of the affected leaves are new but I do see some damage at the edge of the older leaf in the center of this photo

Roundup hasn't been out of shed since early spring cleanup. I did spray the cage with Neem oil a week ago when I saw a few spots of mildew.

Thinking about it more, there may have been some overspray of a weak Miracle-Gro/soap mixture that I used to combat spider mites on nearby vines. I forgot to note that in my journal and now I and can't remember whether it was last Thursday or Friday. Could that have caused this?

Please post an image of the entire plant so that we can see what is affected and where.

I hope this will do. I have 9 cucumber plants in a home-made self watering container. They were doing fine on Friday but now 2 plants have this discoloration. Most of the affected leaves are close to the growing tip and some of the unfuled leaves on two plants seem to be discolored in the same way.

As always, thank you for your help.

This post was edited by Athenian on Mon, Jul 22, 13 at 14:55

    Bookmark     July 22, 2013 at 2:34PM
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dog_wood_2010(7)

These look like healthy plants except for the uppermost leaves that look as if something drifted onto them - a herbicide maybe. I would snip off the affected leaves to prevent it from spreading. I think they will recover.

    Bookmark     July 22, 2013 at 3:21PM
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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

Direct seeding cukes is always the best option assuming it is done properly and at the right time. Same for most all members of the family.

Consistent studies and reports show that direct seeded cukes will always quickly catch up and surpass transplants, are less susceptible to early disease and pest problems, and often out-produce the transplants because all the early stress factors transplants have to deal with are avoided.

Dave

    Bookmark     July 22, 2013 at 1:02PM
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terrene(5b MA)

I always direct sow cukes. They are super easy to start this way and grow quickly. No need to start indoors which is a lot more work. The only issue I have is that the sprouts can be munched on by slugs so I sprinkle a little iron phosphate slug bait around them.

I usually sow them sometime in late June, which is on the late side, but that is because they grow faster than the tomatoes and I like them to mature at about the same time (for cucumber/tomato salads).

    Bookmark     July 22, 2013 at 2:11PM
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