23,594 Garden Web Discussions | Vegetable Gardening

Courtney that fact that the block of bush beans would create its own shade is a great point. I appreciate your advice.

Do you grow any beans to harvest as dry?

You analysis is correct. But there might be difference in yield between pole and bush beans. THE BEAN WHIZs maybe able to answer that question.

Thanks a bunch for all your help again Dave :) I was scared and imediatley checked the plants the past couple of hours knowing what they did to my family and friends plant. At least 20 of them on 4 plants of my brother and neighbors plants.

- Mr Beno

Looks like a butterfly in the skipper family. I'd guess a duskywing, but not sure of any that have blue spots on the wings.

Do you I have to scrap all that fruit?

Have too? No, but most find that fruit with BER tastes "off". Some argue you can cut out the bad part and eat the rest but the bacteria infection in the area normally doesn't make eating it worthwhile.

Was this caused by lack of water? Or is it something else?

That is all explained in the links I posted for you above. Basically it is caused by a poor distribution of calcium throughout the plant as it develops. The transportation of calcium is totally dependent maintaining consistent soil moisture levels throughout the fruit development stages. In containers, especially small containers, that is very difficult to do. There are other contributing factors too - all discussed in the links provided.

Apply some lime around the plants, and water it in thoroughly. See the link.

Sorry but all the studies show that applying lime AFTER the problem develops does not help because lime is so slow acing. Applying it, if needed, BEFORE planting can help.

Again this is all discussed in great detail over on the correct forum - Growing Tomatoes.

Dave

The paste type tomatoes seem to be more prone to BER too, I believe.

I live in Zone 7 Central VA - what are chances of success with growing artichokes and when should they be started?

No one has mentioned the fertlizer requirements for artichokes during the growing season.
I read that you should provide nitrogen. Anyone know if that's correct?

I want to grow asparagus near my artichokes but heavy nitrogen around asparagus is bad as it encourages foliage and not spears. Dilemmas.

It's melon. Sorry

Probably a male flower. Males appear first.

Good deal Kosch. You may want to hold off on the calmag for now for those in the ground. Most "dirt" contains enough. Only add it if you see your plants needing it.

Looks like a lot of posters are swaying towards herbicide damage. Good luck with nursing it back to health.

Kevin

Regarding your specific question on suckering, the point of removing suckers on indeterminate tomatoes when you have a lot of tomato plants is to increase productivity per unit area, by forcing plants vertically upward. However, it decreases yields on a per-plant basis even for a healthy plant, not to mention stressed plants. I do not sucker any container-grown tomatoes. More suckers = more tomatoes.

Another reason to sucker is encourage air flow and decrease the risk of fungal infections, but again, this is not necessary when you're dealing with just one plant, or if you don't live in a humid climate.

This post was edited by Slimy_Okra on Mon, Jul 8, 13 at 16:16

I do not think that smell of whole garlic ,outside, in the garden , can penetrate into the house through the foundation walls, ... to the point of becoming offensive. People keep garlic in their kitchen(along with onions) all the time. The smell is released when the clove is cut or crushed.

I agree with florauk. It don't think what you have is the type of garlic you get at the store. Especially because you say it disappeared for a few years then came back. It sounds like an allium that reproduces by seed and those dormant seeds are what sprouted and grew. A picture would certainly help.

Rodney

This post was edited by theforgottenone1013 on Mon, Jul 8, 13 at 16:01

Right now is perfect for starting fast-maturing broccoli and cabbage in Z 6. I've had excellent results with Alcosa savoy, Pixie, Gonzales and a little pointed cabbage, Caraflex, don't see why Earliana wouldn't be fine. I start collards and kale two weeks after the cabbage and broccoli. Forget about the days to maturity, or add 21 days for starters due to shortening photoperiod, then more for inclement weather.

Thanks I will sow this week, I would anticipate that would give me seedlings ready for transplant in late August, right?

Pnbrown, that's a very nice summary of this discussion. There's a lot more to gardening strategy than a couple of numbers. I would just add that the usefulness of such zones, in the context of this forum, is just to roughly understand who we're talking with, and whether we're using words like "heat" in the same way. So those zone numbers in the profile are less about gardening and more about the person who is posting.

Seysonn, I like your idea about how to code the zone in the forum profile. I've done the same with mine.

I agree, the utility of the codes are primarily in seeking advice. They might also be useful if one were seeking another place to grow food.

Oh, okay thank you!

Looking at those radishes again, I think there may be a problem, not just normal variation. But I don't know what it could be.

Here is a pic of some that I grew. French Breakfast can be very attractive.

Jim

My ground hogs scale my deer fence and gobble up tremendous amounts of foliage under 24". They even dig burrows some years. My wife won't let me hurt them, much less eat them, so I trap them (using a Have-a-Heart trap with apple, kohlrabbi, carrot, and zucchinni slices) take them to a park and release them to struggle/starve in an unfamilar place. I end up trapping one or two per year, since they keep moving in from other yards. Just never seem to get around to modifying my fence so they can't climb over.

I don't have a gun or a dog, so for groundhogs I use wire fencing with the 2x4 inch grid. I encircle the plants they like the best - like lettuce and cruciferous vegetables - with the fencing.

Now supposedly woodchucks can climb and they also dig, so I cut the fencing about 2 feet high, and cut it so there are pokey wire ends coming out the bottom and the top. The bottom pokey ends are stuck into the ground and the top stick up like skewers. These wires are sharp as anything - and the woodchuck can't get past them.

I have a small veggie garden and don't have many plants to protect so it works great. I just have to watch out I don't skewer myself! (Probably not the best method to use if you have small children though).

Agree with fruitnut above. Shift your focus to the individual plant needs not the garden as a whole.

Container plants and in ground plants cannot be treated the same when it comes to feeding just as with all other aspects of the two different types of gardening.

Container plants are fed much more often than in ground plants simply because the nutrients wash out of the containers. How often containers are fed depends on several factors - size of the container, how often watered, age of plant, type of plant, nutrient needs of that type of plant, etc. A very general guideline for feeding containers that is recommended on the Container Gardening forum is weekly with a diluted to 1/2 strength mixture.

Beyond that there is no set schedule for feeding plants, especially in ground plants. There are far too many variables for any set schedule to work and the needs of the various plants are too different. Feeding is as needed for each variety of plant.

Dave

Okay, thanks. That makes life easier.