24,795 Garden Web Discussions | Vegetable Gardening

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glib(5.5)

In a commercial operation, yes. You be content with 1:2, or 20 lbs, over two or three flushes depending on strain. Anything above that and you can brag.

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bobvisaa

Thanks again glib.

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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

Just cut them apart with a sharp knife or scissors and plant them separately. Normally they recover fine from root ball division.

Dave

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dsi411

Hi woohooman, I'm from Southern California, the Inland Empire.
Everyone, thanks for your help, I decided to just take out the plant. I'm gonna plant more cucumber seeds in that container but this time I'm gonna put the container outdoors. Hopefully that'll help.

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woohooman San Diego CA zone 10a

Oh. ok. Much like the climate I'm in.

was hoping you'd have let it go and see if any of the suggested remedies helped. Can always learn by failing.

Good luck with the new ones.

For what it's worth, SWC's sound great on paper(especially her in SoCal), but they sound like everything needs to be prefect to be effective. If I was to try one, I wouldn't use anything but the famed 5-1-1 mix discussed so frequently in the container forum. I would think that root rot might be a problem and the 5-1-1 is designed to eliminate that problem as much as possible. Healthy roots, healthy plant... in most cases.

Kevin

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captaininsano (9b/13) Peoria, AZ.

I have counted seeds from time to time, most companies are generally pretty accurate, but every time I order from Baker Creek they are well over quoted counts and sometimes double.

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geosankie(5a NEPA)

Started my petunia seeds today and found that Pinetree shorted me 30% on one package. I also believe they will correct the shortage. Pelleted seeds are expensive.

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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

Only asparagus? Asparagus beetles but you'd see them. Otherwise the possibilities are numerous - mice, rats, rabbits (my main problem), squirrels, groundhogs, gophers, even feral cats will eat them and they all love the tips especially.

Dave

PS: oh and deer too but mine eat parts of the stalks too.

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barrie2m_(6a, central PA)

Of course the recommendations are going to seem generic because they are computer generated. You can't expect a personalized interpretation when the test facility probably is testing 20,000 to 30,000 samples per month in the Spring.

Most soil fertilizer recommendations are based on a 6.66" depth of soil mainly because that figure computes to 2,000,000 lb. of soil and makes those computer generated recommendations work. If you til deeper or more shallow you probably should be making adjustments to the recommendation because you are either concentrating or dilution the lime and fertilizer that you apply.

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wertach zone 7-B SC

I got the test results back yesterday. They are much easier to understand now. Years ago you had to be a scientist to understand the results!

It's in pretty good condition.

PH-6
Sufficient on everything, put P is excessive.

I can pull the P down a little since I planted a cover crop of annual rye if I mow it and remove it. I was planning on turning it under.

They are recommending 15-0-15, 6lb's per 300' of row.

I bought several bags of 17-17-17 last fall that was on sale, and have them stored in the barn, bummer.

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cugal(5b-6a NE Ks)

Thanks sunnibel! My girls crack me up when NE Kansas has snow! I try to entice them (to come out of their heated coop) by moving their treats (BOS) out into their run......... Nuthin' doin'!

You'd think that snow was razor blades!

Hopefully your girls will find some soft dirt real soon!

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sunnibel7 Md 7(7)

Thanks, cugal! Yup, snow is gone, just waiting to be sure the morning lay is done, then I think we'll all spend some quality time outside. Might even hit the 60s today, dare I hope. If only I could teach the chickens to hunt voles, it would be a perfect setup.

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farmerdill

location; Blue goose is a Maine grown brand. Canadien are grown in Canada usually Nova scotia. Still Kennebecs

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grannybettysue(6)

Thank you! All these years and I didn't know that. Learn something new every day.

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seysonn(8a WA/HZ 1)

I'll be planting warm weather vegetables in mid April, weather permitting. That means I'll be able to look at a ten day forecast and see NO night temperatures below 55 degrees
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

If I had to do that( Night lows 55F+) I would have to wait til July.

Here I will be happy with 42F+ night lows. Tomatoes can even tolerate 38F+. But peppers maybe 45F+

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veggievicki(7b)

Mother earth news has a free planting guide where you put in your zip code and it tells you when to plant what. You can put in your email and they'll send you notices to your email. It's kind of cool.

Here is a link that might be useful: mother earth plant guide

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glib(5.5)

Truth be told, I never bought garlic anyway, except when I worked out of the country for 8 months several years ago. I have always used my own garlic for seed. In my opinion garlic adapts to a site and gets bigger over time. But now I will pay attention.

I also grow everything from seed, similarly to avoid importing disease. But garlic is surprising. I never had a problem, in any soil and with any Michigan season.

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RandyD

Hello,

I'm a new wannabe garlic grower. I just came across this forum thread. I realize it's a little old, but I really appreciate all the good information presented.

Tom,
Would you have any interest in getting together and sharing some knowledge? Maybe, I could come help you harvest for a day and pick your brain as we work. I'm located in Minneapolis. 541-515-4429

Thanks,
Randy

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woohooman San Diego CA zone 10a

Agree with everybody above. I've tried doing what you want to do as far as planting real close together. Some people say this is ok, but I found better production when I gave each plant the proper spacing.

Either do what slimy or zach suggests or snip one like rhizo suggests.

In either case, I would get them out of those 2" peat containers and into some 3" or 4" containers. Peat pots suck past germination and a month is a long ways away.

Kevin

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AiliDeSpain(6a - Utah)

Thin them to one per 4 inch pot, cut it at soil level.

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AiliDeSpain(6a - Utah)

Yes I cut them back then covered them with about six inches of compost and a foot of straw :)

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Slimy_Okra(2b)

Lucky you. Around here, it's a struggle to get even kale to overwinter.

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theforgottenone1013(MI zone 5b/6a)

Lots of people have over on the Square Foot Gardening Forum. I personally haven't. I just use native soil amended yearly with compost.

Mel's Mix Discussions

Here is a link that might be useful: Square Foot Gardening Forum

This post was edited by theforgottenone1013 on Wed, Mar 19, 14 at 19:38

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seysonn(8a WA/HZ 1)

Fertilizer can travel as far as water can. And generally, water does not travel horizontally very far.

What you can do is to put a plastic barier , similar to what they use between grass and garden beds. They are about 6-8" wide and come in rolls, sold at garden center @ HD and elsewhere. Alternatively, you can use a 9/16 x 6" cedar board, the ones are used to make fence with.
As I said, water tends to go down by the force of gravity. UNLESS the bed is flooded.

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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

Also depends on the type of fertilizer. Water souable fertilizers will spread/dissipate out further than a dry granular one will even when it gets wet.

Ideally legumes should be planted as far away from routinely fertilized crops as possible - like a separate area - but that isn't always practical. When it isn't then choose granular supplements rather than liquids or as suggested, some sort of barrier between.

Many gardeners use flowers or other run-off trapping crops between the crops with very different needs but if your space is really limited then that would be a waste of space.

Dave

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wayne_5 zone 6a Central Indiana

I sowed my first seeds today...broccoli, cauliflower, butterhead lettuce, and spinach...inside.

About 12 days later it will be time for tomatoes and peppers.

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JoppaRich(7b)

"When an electric fixture is malfunctioning, one should stop using it immediately. The fluorescent bulbs should last for thousands of hours. But his fixture burns it in no time, he puts in another bulb and the problem persists and he leaves the light on. So whose fault is it ?"

Agree. If something is clearly wrong, the last thing one should do is leave the fixture plugged in and unattended.

There's not a whole lot of difference in T12/T8 fixtures at this point. There's only a few ballast manufacturers and they sell to everyone. Pick the one with the best reflectors (as that's going to be the biggest determiner of performance), and if you're seeing problems in the first couple of weeks, return the damn thing.

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