23,948 Garden Web Discussions | Vegetable Gardening
The first one looks like a Kakai pumpkin; there is another variety almost the same. The white one kind of looks like a white pumpkin but kind of looks like a spaghetti squash. Since these are volunteers there is a huge chance they crossed with other c. pepo varieties last year. They cross up to about 1/2 mile. Any variety of the same species. Volunteer squash aren't usually a good idea except for decoration.
You could try planting for a fall crop once the hot weather breaks. On about the same latitude here and it works for me. Not as productive as spring planting but you still get some. What's you earliest frost date in N. Texas?
Dave
Anytime you grow potatoes in anything other than the ground they never get enough water. They need tons of water. they never produce as much as in the ground. Search the mother earth news article on testing different methods.
Two different dilutions of Acetamiprid in the two different products but the trigger spray is the weaker one by far so there should be no issue there. Neither product lists spider mites that I can see but both are supposedly ok to use on squash up to 7 days prior to harvest.
So are you asking is it safe to use or safe to eat? If they survive the spraying and the spider mites don't kill them I can't see any reason why you should have to rip out the plants.
Dave
You'll want to do some reading about "how to harden off plants" so you can learn how it is done and what the plants need to be protected from. It is a very gradual process, short periods of time, over several days and different seedlings require different levels of protection.
Basically, you do not put them in the sun (shade only), and you definitely do not cover them with a dome (that will quickly kill them),you need to protect them from the wind, and you put them out for only an hour or so while watching them closely.
You can find a basic FAQ here on how to do it and many discussions about the how-tos over on the Growing from Seed forum.
Dave
http://faq.gardenweb.com/discussions/2766561/easy-hardening-off-method
American Indians planted corn, squash and beans in a row system with the corn in the middle of three bean plants with the squash on the outside, about five plants. The beans are 6 to 8 inches out from the corn and the squash is about the same distance from the corn. To be sure google Three sisters planting system.
Always get a complete soil test before adding lime or fertilizer. Compost is ok to add anytime.
It is lack of calcium uptake in the plants that causes BER. There can be sufficient calcium in the soil that never reaches the plant because water moves the calcium to the plant.
Uneven watering (not enuff water) causes the BER we normally see. As the plant grows so do the roots- which can extend 10ft out from where the stem goes into the ground. Move your watering spot out as the plant grows & water daily. Water the walkway.
Fwiw - I water my tomatoes twice a day when it is hot. I water the soil (not the plant) using buckets with small holes drilled in the sides that allows water to soak deeply into the soil.
I have also started using large (3gal) pots that already have quite large holes in them. I just pack the bottom with some leaves then some compost or coffee grounds so the water just seeps out.
I make sure to water between tomato plants. I use buckets to fill these pots, this also allows me to know just how much water I am giving my plants which turns out to be 6 gals when watered 2x/day; once in AM & once in evening. This also serves to avoid the splitting you see after a rain storm.
Tomatoes are as smooth as a baby's bottom :)
You are definitely overanalyzing this. The Mg in dolomite won't do any harm unless your soil is already very high in Mg. More importantly, I would test the pH to ensure that you haven't driven it too high (over 7.5). Keep it in the range of 6.0 to 7.5.
milkweed shoots are edible, but frankly, there are much better shoots. Mature milkweed is slightly toxic if ingested. Obviously it will be good for maintaining and attracting pollinators, and it will intake its share of nutrients like any other weed. It can not make other plants toxic.
I don't have specific mustard greens, but do have Mizuna, a violet pac choi, and a head cabbage.
Mizuna
Head Cabbage
A little harder to see against the black plastic, but the purple is pac choi. The larger green at the top is bok choy. They seem to have a smoother, shinier leaf than my cabbage, which has slightly serrate edging. The choi also seem to have leaf curl down, while my cabbage seems to fold more up if that helps.
It depends on how and how deep you planted them, the nature of your soil, its moisture and nutrient content, how often and how deep you water them, etc. I've seen sprouts in 7 days and others where nothing was visible for 6 weeks. I'd say if you don't see any signs of growth in 4 weeks then carefully dig one up and see what is going on with it.
Lots of good discussions here on growing asparagus you might want to read through. The forum search will pull them all up for you.
Dave
Some people are never happy no matter what is offered to them.
We didn't have the option to either edit or delete on the old GW. We had a few minutes to preview - which many didn't use anyway and then it was cast in stone. And why would you need to edit your reply after a week anyway?
Dave
Yes, I think it is a brilliant policy. Well, at least a smart one. Because if you change your mind about a post a week after you wrote it, you probably ought to write a separate post to explain yourself. A post that generates responses, and is then quietly changed to make those subsequent responses inappropriate or irrelevant, really isn't fair to those responders. This is a conversation, and in a spoken conversation, you don't get to go back and unsay what you said. In fact, for that reason, one might wonder why we're given a week to do edits. If you screw up, then just apologize, post a correction, and move on.
And thank you Tamara for being on top of this.