23,594 Garden Web Discussions | Vegetable Gardening

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farmerdill

Kevin nailed it. For quality better sooner than later.
Prime
Still good but past prime. Note the flower buds starting to open. In a few days it will be a mass of flowers.

    Bookmark   July 7, 2013 at 2:03PM
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woohooman San Diego CA zone 10a

Nice head farmerdill! And GREAT illustration of before and after.

Kevin

    Bookmark   July 7, 2013 at 5:20PM
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yukkuri_kame(Sunset 19 / USDA 9)

Minami, Since you are in zone 10, the shishito may end up being perennial, in which case looking to the long term, rather than short term may be wise. Also, with many pepper plants, judicious pruning early on will help establish a nice thick central stalk that will be able to support fruit later on. I currently have a manzano rocoto pepper plant that I wish I had pruned more aggressively early this spring.

    Bookmark   July 6, 2013 at 4:54AM
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minami(6)

Thanks everyone! One last question, if I prune aggressively now, will they resume blooming this season or will I have to wait for it next year?

    Bookmark   July 7, 2013 at 5:09PM
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newyorkrita(z6b/7a LI NY)

Tomato Tone is especially made for tomatoes. Great for peppers also. Just follow directions.

    Bookmark   July 2, 2013 at 4:47PM
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minami(6)

Thanks everyone! So, it's looking like my tomatoes are doing well so far.

    Bookmark   July 7, 2013 at 5:08PM
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may popswhat is the difference between a maypop and passion fruit
Posted by treehuginghippi July 7, 2013
5 Comments
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pnbrown

Not at all. Maybe a cold enough winter will come along (which would be ok by me) to eliminate them, but maybe not. This is their third growing season now, or maybe fourth, I've lost track.

    Bookmark   July 7, 2013 at 2:53PM
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denninmi(8a)

They are reliably hardy for me in Michigan as long as I throw a good mulch layer over them. They bloom well, but I don't ever get ripe fruit in my shorter season with cool late summer nights. Too bad, I hear they make a great addition to things- even the semi-mature fruits have the characteristic passion fruit aroma when cut open.

    Bookmark   July 7, 2013 at 3:22PM
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iward05

Sorry, not sure how to rotate the pic.

    Bookmark   July 7, 2013 at 12:57PM
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ltilton

I've seen a lot worse.

There are a lot of recent threads here on squash problems. You might read through them and get some ideas.

    Bookmark   July 7, 2013 at 1:07PM
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elisa_z5

Thanks for the tip -- who did you get them from?

    Bookmark   July 7, 2013 at 10:45AM
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sweetquietplace(6 WNC Mtn.)

http://www.grandtetonorganics.com/products

Nice seed. Good varieties. Price seems high until you realize that it includes the postage.

    Bookmark   July 7, 2013 at 11:20AM
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denninmi(8a)

You can pick for immediate use as soon as the skin is hard enough that you can't puncture it with your fingernail. At this point, most varieties are white-ish with a hint of green or yellow.

To store, they need to fully ripen on the vine, roughly 4 more weeks, in my experience, beyond the stage above, although longer is better on the vine if not in danger from pests, disease, or weather. By then, the basic S.S. is yellow-ish in color, as the yellow deepens as it ripens.

    Bookmark   July 6, 2013 at 8:33PM
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nugrdnnut(6a n-c WA)

I was able to store my spaghetti squash for several months by keeping it in the cool of our basement storage room. I closed all heating vent to the room to keep it as cool as possible.

    Bookmark   July 7, 2013 at 10:55AM
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florauk(8/9)

Rodney - those are fantastic looking shallots. It might be useful for the OP to also realise that they grow in bunches and that yours have been separated. (I assume - I have never seen a single shallot bulb growing alone)

    Bookmark   July 7, 2013 at 9:04AM
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theforgottenone1013(MI zone 5b/6a)

florauk- Good point. The shallots in the previous picture were separated post-harvest. And thanks for the compliment but that picture is from a couple years ago. They didn't get quite as big this year.

Shallots grow in clusters like this:

(this picture is from earlier this year)

Rodney

    Bookmark   July 7, 2013 at 10:42AM
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theforgottenone1013(MI zone 5b/6a)

That's powdery mildew. If you search the forum you'll find lots of posts about powdery mildew and how to control it.

gsweater- I don't know where sneed is located but it's been really wet and rainy for a lot of the country, perfect conditions for PM.

Rodney

    Bookmark   July 6, 2013 at 1:03PM
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sneed(7)

Should I cut these leaves off? What about the leaves like the one in the middle, with burnt spots?

    Bookmark   July 7, 2013 at 10:09AM
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ffreidl

Wow - great information about Kohlrabi! I may have to try it in the garden - it seems to have a multitude of uses.

You may be right, Nila. I need to check my frost dates. I was concerned that it would be too hot now for cool weather plants. It's pretty brutal out there!

I'll grow from seed, as per Itilton's advice - not sure I could find starts this time of year anyway.

Thanks everyone!

    Bookmark   July 7, 2013 at 12:55AM
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annew21 (zone 7b NC)(7b NC)

I would also recommend kale. My favorite is dwarf blue curled scotch. I sow it in August and then have it all through the winter because you can pick individual leaves from several plants without killing them. Since you're in zone 5 you would probably have to provide protection to them in the winter.

And I agree with Rodney - I love kohlrabi too! If you like to peel broccoli stalks and slice them up and eat them, you'll like kohlrabi.

-Anne

    Bookmark   July 7, 2013 at 9:18AM
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denninmi(8a)

Leave the cauliflower. I've had then stay vegetative all summer, get enormous, and then form monster heads in the fall as days shorten and nights cool off.

    Bookmark   July 6, 2013 at 8:37PM
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Tom44145

Thanks everyone! Though about using them as collards but didn't know if that was done. I'll leave the cauliflower and see how they turn out

    Bookmark   July 6, 2013 at 10:34PM
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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

Link below.

Dave

Here is a link that might be useful: Defender Russet Growers/Suppliers

    Bookmark   July 6, 2013 at 5:35PM
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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

Where do you live that you are taking it in for the winter already?

Dave

    Bookmark   July 6, 2013 at 5:28PM
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tishtoshnm Zone 6/NM

I would absolutely remove the mulch. One year I went to a friend's house to harvest some free horse manure. That manure was contaminated with herbicide. Of course, I did not know this before incorporating it into my garden. The 3 families that seem to be most susceptible are legumes, nightshades and the spinach family (I forget what it is called). I second Dave's advice of trying to flush it out and I would also recommend amending with lots of compost too. For next season, to do a quick test to see if it is still active, plant peas. If the plants look deformed, you know not to plant any of the susceptible families there. For some of our plants, once they pushed through the zone of contamination, they began to recover, slightly. It has been 3 years now and I think that next season most of the locations will be ready for nightshades again. Good luck.

    Bookmark   July 6, 2013 at 2:44PM
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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

Rodney raises a good point. Are you absolutely sure the cause is the mulch rather than just drift from a nearby application?

Dave

    Bookmark   July 6, 2013 at 3:31PM
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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

If you can keep them well watered and very heavily mulched so the soil stays cooler they will do fine. I pile 6-8" of hay and leaf mulch on mine. Otherwise it's probably best to pick now - assuming they have enough growth to worth harvesting.

Dave

    Bookmark   July 6, 2013 at 2:47PM
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