23,948 Garden Web Discussions | Vegetable Gardening
I tried that trick with a Farmer's Market bought celery recently and had zero luck. Finally bought a four-pack of celery plants and was surprised at how well they grew without a swamp or any special care.
Celery root (celeriac) is altogether different. It is easy to grow but takes a long growing season to size up and is slow to bring up to planting-out stage from seeds. Seedlings are miniscule for a long time--not the sort of things I would try sowing directly.
Sure, dried grass clippings is a very commonly used mulch with one provision, well two. First avoid direct contact with the stems as it can burn. It remains high nitrogen even when dried. And second, it has to be multi-layered to block weeds.
Dave
PS: no herbicides or lawn chems allowed. They can kill the plants.
Thanks for the advice - I guess I will look a little closer at the flowers and squash. We have had so much rain the last few weeks I just wasn't sure if that might be causing something different than I've seen before. I have tons of 2-3 inch squash and lots of flowers so maybe all is not lost.
This is my first year growing a garden my yellow summer squash is doing great but I have realized that I was not getting full grown squash! It would get about 2-3 inches an dies! Well after doing research I don't have very many male flowers! I have self pollinated all I can but so far I only have 1 squash an 22 dead little baby squash! Is this normal?
I would suggest using all the cardboard moving boxes in addition to the paper. Multiple layers of cardboard laid down first is a common practice when making a new bed and is one of the best weed suppressors. Put it down and then top with the paper and compost.
Then skip the tilling and just keep adding alternate layers of compost and soil on top - each several inches thick - and let it decompose down. Much easier and you end up up with weed-free beds and good rich soil. The cardboard will decompose over time and then you can till in a couple of years if you wish.
Examine the local compost carefully first. Talk to other users first. There has been a sharp increase in herbicide contaminated compost issues over the past couple of years and some of them will survive the composting process for as much as a year.
Dave
I've really gotten turned on to growing different kinds of potatoes and love their vivid flowers. Ck out Tom Wagner's site for an interesting read and lots of pix: http://tatermater.proboards.com/
Well, I missed my window of opportunity, and they were bitter today :(.
I cut them all, and stuck them in boiling water for 3 minutes. Still bitter. But 4 minutes worked :).
They have made lovely large beets, and I m still wondering if I'm doing the right thing, leaving them in the ground in hope of more leaves (which will presumably make the roots woody and icky),
Thing is, I still have beetroots in the fridge from the winter crop...
Wait till fall for the spinach and let it winter over, protected with some autumn leaves. You'll have huge plants in spring. Plant now and it will bolt and you'll have nothing.
The rest you can plant now.
This post was edited by susanzone5 on Sun, Jul 28, 13 at 19:47
I planted horseradish iin the garden one year and dug it up in the fall And the roots were thin and long. Good flavor. Some of the roots snapped off way way down deep deep.
The next year it came back up 6 or 7 feet from where I planted it. I dug it up. And it snapped off way way down deep deep. Had good flavor. Long thin root.
The next year it came back up to 20 feet away from where it was planted. It is going to take a backhoe to dig deep enough to get all the root. If one little piece gets left in the ground, it will be back next year. Good luck.
I am no expert...but your plant looks fine to me. The tips of a few leaves are yellowing and that might be over-watering(???).
There is a tutorial on this website that simply explains how to imbed a photo in the post. You will probably get more responses if you try to do that.
Could it be early blight or another blight? I took my affected plant leaves to a local store where they have gardeners who have been gardening for years and that is what they told me I and my entire garden community had. If it is blight, remove all yellowing, dead branches with some clippers and throw the affected branches away. Sanitize the clippers after use. Water with a soaker or be careful with the hose so it doesn't splash up onto the plant. Some people will spray fungicide others will just remove the affected leaves and not spray anything. You may be able to do that too because we are far along in the growing season, at least in my area. My community garden is picky so I could only spray some potassium bicarbonate (bi-carb old fashioned fungicide). They do look a lot better now that I sprayed. Your plants are really robust looking so maybe just removing the leaves would be enough? The only thing is, is that if you have to remove too many leaves I've read it can cause some sun damage. I hope this helps and good luck!
Sunscald. Thick fleshed varieties, like bells, are more prone than others.
How to prevent it... well, if their in a container, rotate the container occasionally. In ground, shade cloth during hot, bright hours of the day can help. Or, you just accept the fact that some fruit may not make it.
Kevin
No, please don't throw it away cause it makes a good brown ingredient for composting.
Thanks CethK - so would it be okay just to spread directly over the vege garden (and then cover it up with compost that im already making, top soil, etc) or should I add it to the compost pile for breaking down first. I'm guess I'm a bit unsure about how invasive agave plants are.