23,948 Garden Web Discussions | Vegetable Gardening
This looks like it might explain the problem:
I have all of my tomatoes in the garden this year. The reason these are in pots is becuase they are the superhot varieties that need to be in containers. I'll scout around for a better location I guess. Tough to find room for 16 buckets, and this is the only completley shadeless spot. Thanks for the heads up the last thing I'd want is scorched/rotten peppers after all of this.
I do not understand what your concern is: Lack of fruit or problem with the leaves ???
Cucumber leaves are very sensitive to environmental and handling causes. They get bruised easily.. and the rest.
About fertilizing: I will use a balanced fertilizer(N,P,K). Some MG all purpose ferts have too much Nitrogen, that can result in nice foliage but not necessarily good fruiting. IMO.
There are simple kitchen thermometers that has a range of 0F to 220F. There are both with digital and analog displays. I have the latter. It has a probe of about 6" long.
You can find one in the household/kitchen ware section in most supermarkets.
There have been several discussions on these forums over the years about tomatillos and the consensus seems to be that you need more than one plant because they need to be cross pollinated to set fruit reliably.
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@ Rodney
Not true. Several years ago (Then I had a different user name. I lost my password and registered under current name) I challenged that consensus and proved it WRONG. By planting just one tomatillo plant and got bumper crop. And as far as I could tell there was not even a veggies garden in a half mile radius. I was then in Atlanta GA area.
Mine is not fruiting b/c it is a Mexican strain and I am in heat zone one, not heat zone 10 like in Mexico or down South. .
You can buy it from whole foods market or from the Organic section of your grocery store. But selections is limited. Same goes for garlics. I will never buy them my mail order. Supposedly(they claim) it is certified. Probably 95 % of the potatoes grown in Idaho can pass certification test anyway.
Lettuce and chicory are related so the fact that they have similar flowers would make sense. They both belong to the Asteraceae family. And in case you're wondering it also includes things like asters (obviously), endive, artichokes, jerusalem artichokes, sunflowers, mums, etc.
Rodney
This post was edited by theforgottenone1013 on Wed, Jul 24, 13 at 18:42
Wayne, larva don't hatch out of beetles. The beetles lay eggs and larvae hatch out of eggs . Dead beetles can't lay eggs.
What you may be seeing are larva of flies. Flies lay eggs on dead matter (beetles). The larva hatch from the eggs and eat the dead stuff and then turn into flies. Quite a cycle.
This post was edited by susanzone5 on Wed, Jul 24, 13 at 11:28
The only nice feature of JB's is that their defense mechanism is to fall when they sense danger. You can place a hand, creating a shadow above a bunch of them and they will fall or roll off of a leaf right into your pot of water. JB's are drawn to each other and will usually be found in groups. I doubt there is a relationship between heat of the day and grouping. However, if the heat of the day is actually hot, they will no longer fall, but instead fly away; and they are almost impossible to catch in the heat of the day.
Normal fungus growth from overly wet soil. Same as found with growing from seed seedlings. You can stir it in, sprinkle some dry mix on top of it, or just wait until the soil dries out and it disappears. It only becomes a problem if it becomes a chronic problem and it indicates over-watering.
Dave
#SharonP68
I wonder where you got seed for the Stavros?
I too would love to pickle a lot of pepperoncini.
On this website http://www.paleotechnics.com/Articles/Pepperoncini.html she recommended Stavros or Sigaretta di Bergamo as the best for pepperoncini.
My usual seed sources don't seem to carry it.
Thanks,
Nancy
Nancy,
I bought my seeds from Ohio Heirloom Seeds:
http://www.shop.ohioheirloomseeds.com/main.sc
It took almost 2 1/2 weeks for them to germinate, but every seed germinated. So far, I have harvested 4 pounds of peppers from 8 plants!
Best of luck!
Sharon
Yes, make sure you inspect the vine for additional eggs, and then once clear, bury as much of the vine as possible. It will develop more roots. I've gotten pumpkins from vines damaged from SVB, in part because they don't always completely sever the vine, and also because of the extra rooting that occurs along the vine.
This post was edited by ccabal on Wed, Jul 24, 13 at 12:33
Also regarding surgery... a less invasive method is to try and find the entry point, or the hole where the frass is coming out from. Then wash it out, and get a spray bottle, set to stream mode. And spray into the hole some soapy water. Spray it pretty good. Often the grub will come out of the hole to try and escape the water, and you can kill it, or the soapy water might kill it. I also will poke a wire into the hole to stab it or fish it out. Either way this might be less damaging to the plant than having to split it open.
This is my first time planning and planting for a fall/winter crop. I direct sowed broccoli, cabbage and lettuce and have had very good germination rates. It has been at or near 100 degrees for a week and I sowed those seed 5 days ago. I water morning and evening to keep my raised bed from getting dry.
I will see how it goes for the next few weeks and hope for the best.
Tom
kawaiineko: Maybe... All depends on when the hard freezes come, because brassicas can handle FROST with no problem. I wouldn't know about hard freezes... we just don't get them here.. Tishtosh is right regarding DTM -- I've NEVER had a cauli head after 65 days like the package says. It's more along the same lines as broccoli -- 90-100.
Nugednut: I can't stress enough how much easier it is to start brassicas and lettuces under shoplights for fall plantings -- it's just too damn hot in most parts of the U.S. for germination. And even if they do sprout, the seedlings would need shade. Even for spring plantings, I start them under shoplights--- this way, they have a 6-8 week start before the heat of late spring and summer comes along.
Kevin