23,948 Garden Web Discussions | Vegetable Gardening

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Deborah-SC(8a)

myluck -- I LOLd!!

    Bookmark     July 22, 2013 at 6:07PM
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myluck(5 In)

Deborah-sc,
kind of fits the name don't it. There is a reason.

    Bookmark     July 22, 2013 at 7:49PM
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Unknown creature!What is this on my tomato plant?!!
Posted by mommomsgarden(6/Jersey Girl!) July 22, 2013
12 Comments
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CaraRose

There are small parasitic wasps that lay their eggs on these guys. The young eat their way out and form cocoons on the outside of the hornworm. The weakened hornworm will die before being able to pupate, but the cocoons will hatch and more wasps will go out in the world and attack and feed on more hornworms.

    Bookmark     July 22, 2013 at 5:25PM
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jean001a(Portland OR 7b)

Those white things on hornworms aren't eggs. They are pupal cases.

Here's how it works:
The wasp eggs were inserted into the caterpillar.
The eggs hatched inside a well-provisioned cafeteria.
The wasp larvae ate until their next life stage.
The wasp larvae exited the caterpillar and formed pupae inside those white cases on the exterior of the caterpillar.
The next stage is when the adult wasps -- very tiny things - exit the pupal cases.

TaDa! Bio-control in action.

FWIW: I don't see a pupal case on the OP's image.
I think it's the end of one of the normal white lines on a tobacco hornworm..

    Bookmark     July 22, 2013 at 7:13PM
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Athenian(USDA 10B/Sunset 22)

Are those only the newer leaves?
If so, has anyone used Roundup (glyphosate) nearby?

Most of the affected leaves are new but I do see some damage at the edge of the older leaf in the center of this photo

Roundup hasn't been out of shed since early spring cleanup. I did spray the cage with Neem oil a week ago when I saw a few spots of mildew.

Thinking about it more, there may have been some overspray of a weak Miracle-Gro/soap mixture that I used to combat spider mites on nearby vines. I forgot to note that in my journal and now I and can't remember whether it was last Thursday or Friday. Could that have caused this?

Please post an image of the entire plant so that we can see what is affected and where.

I hope this will do. I have 9 cucumber plants in a home-made self watering container. They were doing fine on Friday but now 2 plants have this discoloration. Most of the affected leaves are close to the growing tip and some of the unfuled leaves on two plants seem to be discolored in the same way.

As always, thank you for your help.

This post was edited by Athenian on Mon, Jul 22, 13 at 14:55

    Bookmark     July 22, 2013 at 2:34PM
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dog_wood_2010(7)

These look like healthy plants except for the uppermost leaves that look as if something drifted onto them - a herbicide maybe. I would snip off the affected leaves to prevent it from spreading. I think they will recover.

    Bookmark     July 22, 2013 at 3:21PM
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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

Direct seeding cukes is always the best option assuming it is done properly and at the right time. Same for most all members of the family.

Consistent studies and reports show that direct seeded cukes will always quickly catch up and surpass transplants, are less susceptible to early disease and pest problems, and often out-produce the transplants because all the early stress factors transplants have to deal with are avoided.

Dave

    Bookmark     July 22, 2013 at 1:02PM
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terrene(5b MA)

I always direct sow cukes. They are super easy to start this way and grow quickly. No need to start indoors which is a lot more work. The only issue I have is that the sprouts can be munched on by slugs so I sprinkle a little iron phosphate slug bait around them.

I usually sow them sometime in late June, which is on the late side, but that is because they grow faster than the tomatoes and I like them to mature at about the same time (for cucumber/tomato salads).

    Bookmark     July 22, 2013 at 2:11PM
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katyajini(z6 NYC)

Thank you guys. I am definitely going to try Clarimore next year side by side with Magda.

K.

    Bookmark     June 27, 2009 at 1:51PM
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newyorkrita(z6b/7a LI NY)

I just saw seeds for this variety at Park Seeds. It certainly looks interesting to me. I like the yummy flavor description.

    Bookmark     July 22, 2013 at 1:31PM
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newyorkrita(z6b/7a LI NY)

I eat grapes all the time and no, I don't buy organic. I wash them of course but I know that commercial growers must be spraying with something. I can't control these things but I can control what I spray in my own garden. I try and stay away from toxic. So far the only two things I have ever used on the veggies are a Neem oil product (for the squash) and a Daconil product (for the tomatoes).

    Bookmark     July 22, 2013 at 12:18PM
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glib(5.5)

How does it get into grapes? AFAIK, grapes at least here are not sprayed for a month or so before harvest.

    Bookmark     July 22, 2013 at 12:59PM
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AiliDeSpain(6a - Utah)

Bumping for you since I see you didn't get a response :)

    Bookmark     July 22, 2013 at 12:21AM
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newyorkrita(z6b/7a LI NY)

There are many discussions on SVB. I personally have been injecting with Spinosad. This is my first year with Squash so I am no expert.

    Bookmark     July 22, 2013 at 12:08PM
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2ajsmama

Congratulations, you've got a pumpkin!

Did you happen to carve jack o lanterns anywhere in the area, or throw the guts in your compost?

    Bookmark     July 21, 2013 at 7:00AM
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njitgrad

Well, I've never grown a pumpkin before so this should be interesting. Probably a dumb question but when will they turn orange and be ready to pick? Early October I assume? Judging by their current size in mid-July they are going to be massive in Oct.

BTW, it turns out that my neighbor planted them in her garden so it must have been transferred to my flower bed by an animal. These plants are voracious...they took over her whole garden. The leeks she had growing there a few weeks ago are M.I.A.

    Bookmark     July 22, 2013 at 10:38AM
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seysonn(8a WA/HZ 1)

I wouldn't worry about the very lower leaves turning yellow. When you let the plant to grow on its own(no pruning , no trimming) eventually some leaves have to go. On top of that too much rain, I trim all such leaves, especially if the are less than 10" from the ground.
I think you are doing the right thing by NOT fertilizing. I would 've done the same. Let them start bearing some fruits then give them a light dose.

    Bookmark     July 21, 2013 at 10:20AM
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greenmulberry(5-Iowa City)

By the end of the season, my tomato plants have lost about the lower 18 inches of leaves. I am in such a different climate than you, I don't know how this translates, but, I will say if the plants are otherwise vigorous then losing some lower leaves is nothing to worry about and in fact, trying to stop it might be a losing battle.

    Bookmark     July 22, 2013 at 10:37AM
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ltilton

Lettuce should work. I don't think brassicas would do very well.

    Bookmark     July 21, 2013 at 9:59PM
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greenmulberry(5-Iowa City)

I think lettuce, arugula, spinach and the like would all do fine. You will need to punch some holes in the bottom to let it drain.

    Bookmark     July 22, 2013 at 10:33AM
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tdscpa(z5 NWKS)

Impossible to advise you. You need a soil test to determine if you need to fertilize.

I have a soil test done annually, and get fertilizer recommendations. If my soil has adequate N-P-K when I plant, I am advised to not add (side dress) fertilizer during the summer, as watermelon does not need it. (Not a big user of N, and P & K will stay in place in your soil through the growing season.)

Spend the $15 for a soil test from your state Ag. college for a test and fertilizer recommendations and forget asking for opinions from people who have no idea where you even live.

I tell them what I am growing, and I am advised when and how much to fertilize onions, cucumbers, tomatoes, corn, beans, peppers, muskmelons, asparagus, and not to fertilize lettuce, carrots, radishes, and watermelons beyond the beginning of season basic fertilizer added to the whole garden.

The cost of the test will save you money you will otherwise spend on unneeded fertilizer.

    Bookmark     July 22, 2013 at 5:11AM
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edweather(Zone 5a/b Central NY)

Yes you can double the dose to get the 10 10 10. If they look like they are growing well your ok. Mine are really starting to run, but I grow in containers and the fertilizer requiremants are different. Growing in the ground requires less fertilizer.

    Bookmark     July 22, 2013 at 9:50AM
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seysonn(8a WA/HZ 1)

I agree with OnTheGreenFarms advice.
After certain time, any new growth or flower will materialize any harvestable fruits.

    Bookmark     July 22, 2013 at 12:33AM
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Slimy_Okra(2b)

NEVER prune eggplant!

Zoysia, just ignore those websites that tell you to prune eggplant. It's a load of steaming manure. There is nothing to be confused about - take the advice of eggplant growers on this forum.

Every sucker or shoot you prune away is costing you eggplant fruit. Secondly, there is a perennial misconception about eggplants needing to ripen. Eggplants should never, ever be allowed to ripen. They are not tomatoes. Ripe eggplants are inedible.

Why are indeterminate tomatoes pruned? Well, because if you're an intensive grower with limited space, you'd stake them, train them vertically, and cram as many tomato plants as you can into that space. You're basically converting horizontal space to vertical space, with a significant drop in production per plant, but this is compensated for by increased production per square foot.

When space is not an issue, and fungal problems are minor, pruning is unnecessary at best and deterimental at worst. A healthy, bushy plant, whether that is a tomato, eggplant, or pepper, will yield you the most fruits.

    Bookmark     July 22, 2013 at 2:15AM
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rhizo_1 (North AL) zone 7

What kind of damage are you looking for? The eggs don't cause any problems.....it's what hatches from those little eggs that are the trouble makers.

    Bookmark     July 21, 2013 at 8:40PM
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AiliDeSpain(6a - Utah)

Squash bug eggs!!! I just got done inspecting my butternut plants for them and found five clusters. Inspect all of your leaves and you are sure to find more. Like others said soak the plants and the adults will crawl up to dry out on the leaves. That is how I hunt them. lol.

    Bookmark     July 22, 2013 at 12:14AM
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flowergirl70ks

I think in my case it is extreme heat. Mine are not acting like they do normally, they take forever to grow after they set on. I like to pick about cuc size and its taking at least a week to get one that big.

    Bookmark     July 21, 2013 at 5:09PM
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glib(5.5)

It is just lack of pollination. Either use the small paint brush (male first, then female), or change the flora around. Bees don't rate squash blossoms highly if they have a choice.

    Bookmark     July 21, 2013 at 11:34PM
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oldkugirl

Thanks digdirt, that sounds pretty reasonable. I'll cut off the water for a day or so and hope they scare over. One other thing I forgot to mention is that I gave them a little miracle grow yesterday. Do you think that may be related in some way? Would spraying the cracks with a little hydrogen peroxide be helpful?

    Bookmark     July 21, 2013 at 10:46PM
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oldkugirl

Thanks digdirt, that sounds pretty reasonable. I'll cut off the water for a day or so and hope they scare over. One other thing I forgot to mention is that I gave them a little miracle grow yesterday. Do you think that may be related in some way? Would spraying the cracks with a little hydrogen peroxide be helpful?

    Bookmark     July 21, 2013 at 10:47PM
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