23,948 Garden Web Discussions | Vegetable Gardening

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sneed(7)

I was spraying the leaves lightly with a milk/water combination. I had been over-head watering them with a sprayer hose, but I switched to just letting the water pour out of the hose onto the soil last week.

    Bookmark     July 21, 2013 at 7:48PM
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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

If organic use only is the goal then there are a number of ORMI approved fungicides available that would have been far more effective than some milk and water combination. As a fungicide its effect is minimal at best. Given the decline of the plants in the pics it may well be too late to save them now. Not that I would pull them but I'd sure start spraying the new growth with a real fungicide.

Dave

    Bookmark     July 21, 2013 at 8:12PM
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theforgottenone1013(MI zone 5b/6a)

Looks like pepper maggot damage to me. Since the grub is inside the pepper, spraying seven isn't going to help. If you do a search over on the Hot Pepper forum, you might find out how to control it but I believe that covering the plants with floating row covers are the only effective way.

Oh, and the straw has nothing to do with this pest.

Rodney

This post was edited by theforgottenone1013 on Sat, Jul 20, 13 at 20:03

    Bookmark     July 20, 2013 at 8:01PM
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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

Agree. Pepper Maggots. See info sheet below.

Dave

Here is a link that might be useful: Pepper Maggots

    Bookmark     July 21, 2013 at 6:13PM
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pnbrown

There were many threads about this in the past, some may be cached.

The take-away was: make sure you use a "late" variety or the tower-building is a waste of effort. You can easily search to find lists that will tell you if carolla is early, mid, or late.

Be advised that a 3x3 or 4x4 area will not produce much poundage even in a best-case scenario. Towers and bins do not defeat the laws of nature, no matter what one may read about it.

    Bookmark     July 21, 2013 at 5:39PM
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glib(5.5)

and, you need to rotate, if there is one vegetable that needs to be rotated it is potatoes.

    Bookmark     July 21, 2013 at 5:42PM
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elisa_z5

Check to see if they are the male flowers doing this -- they come first. (and if they are the male flowers, then they are acting normally.) They won't have a fruit. The females, which come later, do. However, these are most certainly some sort of hybrid from the cross pollination from last year, so you're not guaranteed a good type of squash. The hybrids can be bitter, or they can be good. It's a toss up.

    Bookmark     July 21, 2013 at 4:55PM
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melikeeatplants

This thread is leaning towards urban gardening but I have seen threads with people complaining about contamination in rural lands. Pesticide/Fungicide/Herbicide and fertiliser were used much more liberally post WWII. A lot of those chemicals are no longer allowed but still reside in soil currently farmed on.

If you have access to virgin soil, untouched by human activities you are very lucky. An urban plot may have better quality soil than an old farmstead, and vice versa of course.

    Bookmark     July 21, 2013 at 9:48AM
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gardenlen(s/e qld aust)

should present no problem, as most of that fall out is probably not in a soluble form, if you use raised beds all the better. we are growing a tree barrier between us and unsealed road 70 meters away, this should block a lot of dust that will contain residuals from vehicles.

len

Here is a link that might be useful: lens bale garden

    Bookmark     July 21, 2013 at 3:46PM
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rhizo_1 (North AL) zone 7

It looks nothing like a cockroach nymph to me. I'm thinking more in terms of beetle nymph, but would sure like to see some more images.

    Bookmark     July 21, 2013 at 2:40PM
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mflocco(z8b Austin)

The bugs are really fast, and scurry away when I discover them. I was able to get this shot of two of them on my straw:

And the pumpkin stem:

    Bookmark     July 21, 2013 at 3:42PM
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fireweed22

I wouldn't either, holy cow, read labels!

    Bookmark     July 21, 2013 at 1:25PM
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2ajsmama

Benefin is used in commercial lettuce fields to give the direct-seeded lettuce a head start against the weeds. I guess I've eaten lettuce grown in those fields since I don't always buy organic lettuce.

http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG//r441700111.html

Oryzalin has been widely used in orchards and fields, from almonds to walnuts

http://www.uky.edu/Ag/Horticulture/masabni/xreflist/Chem-Crop%20Files/Chem-Crop-List-O/oryzalin-crop.htm

Again, we've all probably eaten fruit, vegetables, and/or nuts grown in soil treated with this.

Would I eat the vegetables in your garden? Not knowingly - and after doing an internet search on these 2 chemicals I'm going to think more carefully about what I buy in the grocery store, even if it's not on the "Dirty Dozen" list. It's your choice whether you want to - I'd contact the manufacturer and tell them how much you put down, when, and what crops you're growing. Since they labeled it for ornamentals and not veggies, the lawyers will probably tell you it's not advised.

Here is a link that might be useful: Beyond Pesticides Oryzalin info

    Bookmark     July 21, 2013 at 2:33PM
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lilyd74 (5b sw MI)

I don't grow it intentionally (there's no need!) but I do take advantage of what grows naturally. I did find the information below on a Google search, on one of the weed management sites from Purdue university. Granted the information was intended to suppress the plant, not to encourage it - we can use knowledge any way we want to, right? :-) I linked the source, too, if you want to look.

"Brown seeds germinate readily, while black seeds are more dormant. Many of the seeds remain on the plant until early winter and these small, smooth seeds have no other apparent adaptation for dispersal other than their high density and ability to spread from site to site by various means, including equipment transfer. The seeds also can survive well in the digestive tracts of cows, sheep, and horses, so manure is considered a possible source for introducing seed.
Seed dormancy in common lambsquarters contributes to
its success as a weed. Under certain conditions it can
remain viable in the soil for several decades. In fact, viable
seeds have been recovered from medieval ruins in Europe
(Mohler and DiTommaso). Most seeds require some
time before they are ready to germinate. Light, strong
day and night temperature fluctuations, and the presence
of nitrate in the soil increase common lambsquarters seed germination (Mohler and DiTommaso, 2006).
Some research suggests that only 10 to 30% of the current seasonâÂÂs seed will germinate under favorable conditions the following season (Forcella et al., 1997)."

When growing quinoa, a close lambsquarter relative, it's recommended to refrigerate the seeds before planting if nighttime temps are much over 60. I wonder if something similar might be helpful for lambsquarters, especially if as the source cites, strong day and night temperature fluctuations are useful?

Here is a link that might be useful: Pudue

This post was edited by LilyD74 on Sun, Jul 21, 13 at 10:17

    Bookmark     July 21, 2013 at 10:09AM
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NilaJones(7b)

Wow, thank you, Lily!

Sounds like if I want to grow in flats (which I do), I should put the trays in the fridge at night and somewhere warm during the day.

I had no idea about the brown and black seeds! I had noticed the different colors, but I thought the brown ones were immature. I mostly planted the black ones O_o.

Does anyone grow them for the seed, for eating? I saw something in my previous web searches about the seeds being found in the stomachs of neolithic folks in england. Seems like you would need a lot of plants for one bowl of food, but that's true for any grain/seed crop.

I did include semi-mature seedheads in my last dish of greens. Crunchy and tasty.

    Bookmark     July 21, 2013 at 2:18PM
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newyorkrita(z6b/7a LI NY)

More Fairy tale Eggplants. I just love these little things.

    Bookmark     July 21, 2013 at 1:52PM
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newyorkrita(z6b/7a LI NY)

Gretal white eggplants. I love this variety also.

    Bookmark     July 21, 2013 at 1:53PM
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pnbrown

So no clue about where you are other than z10? Will folks ever realize that socal and sofla are ever so different horticulturally?

    Bookmark     July 21, 2013 at 11:52AM
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lgteacher(SCal)

Thank you for including your summer high temperatures.

It does seem a difficult time to grow cauliflower. Could you put them in a shady place for a while where it will be a bit cooler? You could then put them in the ground next month. The main problem would be that they would bolt before forming nice heads. Since they were free, there's no harm in trying. You could plant a few now and a few next month.

Here is a link that might be useful: What's Growing On?

    Bookmark     July 21, 2013 at 1:32PM
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fireweed22

Thank you for all of there at ideas!

    Bookmark     July 21, 2013 at 1:26PM
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fireweed22

Thank you for all of the great ideas!
Darn spellcheck...

    Bookmark     July 21, 2013 at 1:27PM
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SighBorg

Thanks seysonn! That may be it! I just checked out some pics of immature peppercorn flowers and foliage and it looks similar.

Strange that it got mixed in with the capsicum annum seed pack. And stranger that I didn't notice I was planting A PEPPERCORN. Maybe it fell in the germinating cup or something and I just didn't notice.

Is peppercorn even worth growing (especially in an Earth Box)?

    Bookmark     July 21, 2013 at 3:14AM
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fireweed22

Looks to me like one of the many polygonum (sp?) weeds.

    Bookmark     July 21, 2013 at 1:23PM
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lgteacher(SCal)

I had them all over my chives and Swiss chard. I hosed with water, then used insecticidal soap, cut off the most infected parts, and have a clean garden again.

    Bookmark     July 21, 2013 at 1:22PM
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2ajsmama

Looks like possibly a split to me, like the left hand section of the plant fell over from its own weight and split the base. Just cover it up with soil.

Isn't it strange that these huge plants are so brittle and delicate?

    Bookmark     July 21, 2013 at 6:55AM
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CaraRose

I zoomed in on the bottom and it might be an optical illusion, but I see a hole with two borers.

That said, it may just be an illusion since it's not clear. Especially since I have SVBs on the brain after the one got flushed out of the bore hole the other day while I injected BT.

    Bookmark     July 21, 2013 at 11:11AM
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sunnibel7 Md 7(7)

I've had my RQ tassel at the heights you indicate and continue to grow upwards while forming the ears. I'm curious, nc-crn, do you mean the red coloring or the odd kernel placement(which also happened on my RQ)? Anyway, I'm not wedded to the idea that it's just mislabeling, it was just very striking how much like RQ those plants look.

    Bookmark     July 21, 2013 at 10:16AM
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wayne_5 zone 6a Central Indiana

Here's my two cents. The corn looks over-crowed to me. You want thick stalks. Early varieties like Early Sunglo in my opinion are not vigorous enough for stressful situations.

    Bookmark     July 21, 2013 at 11:04AM
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