23,948 Garden Web Discussions | Vegetable Gardening

Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
jnjfarm_gw(5a)

Dicamba will drift even on a calm day. What is he trying to control. 2,4-d is good on dandilions and clovers. dicamba will control crabgrass. the drift will damage nearby trees and is deadly to tomatoes. in my area, weed and feed should have been done in late march. I have used granular in early spring and a gain in September to kill off lawn weeds. I now have good thick grass an don't weed only feed.

    Bookmark     April 17, 2015 at 6:53PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
laceyvail(6A, WV)

Well, corn gluten does work if applied at the right time for the seeds you're looking to exterminate. I have used it for years. But it does degrade, and if the seeds germinate much later than the application, then it doesn't work.

    Bookmark     April 18, 2015 at 3:27AM
Sign Up to comment
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
Karolina (zone 5b)

It's the 3rd year I'm planting in this soil so all rocks are long gone :) thank you for your help on this, also is there a best way to till? I read to go in straight lines, and to really not over till either. Is there truth in this? What are your best practices when tilling?

    Bookmark     April 17, 2015 at 6:28PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
jnjfarm_gw(5a)

I prefer to deep till then mix the compost in. I also often will till across or at an angle to the way the rows will run. also working the soil just before planting is good. I don't know what it cost to rent a tiller or how big your plot is, but you may want to consider a mantis for about $300 on Ebay.

    Bookmark     April 17, 2015 at 7:02PM
Sign Up to comment
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
nancyjane_gardener(Zone 8ish North of San Francisco in the "real" wine country)

Check craigslist or freecycle for materials. Also, there is a SF gardening, and container gardening forum you might want to check into. Have fun! Nancy

    Bookmark     April 17, 2015 at 5:43PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
NHBabs(4b-5aNH)

Pegleg, wood chips are fine for surface mulch, but will tie up nitrogen when mixed into the soil unless they've been well composted ahead of time. You might want to start a new thread to ask about soil mixes. I just use native soil with compost turned in every year or two and it does fine, but I have good soil, and am not any type of expert.

    Bookmark     April 17, 2015 at 6:34PM
Sign Up to comment
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
gumby_ct(CT it says Z5)

I was under the impression that soil microbe feed on the sugar in Reg Coke. Jerry Baker, Master Gardener Extraordinaire, has a recipe using coke to enhance plant growth. Claims your plants will be jumping out of the ground.

You should do that coke vs soap experiment using reg coke,

    Bookmark     April 17, 2015 at 5:55PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
jimmy56_gw (zone 6 PA)

During a shortage of rain I also used the discharge water from a clothes washing machine with good results and no damage at all.

    Bookmark     April 17, 2015 at 5:56PM
Sign Up to comment
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
bcomplx(z6VA)

Radishes have a false reputation for being easy because they are fast. In reality, they want everything perfect for 30 days -- constant moisture, roomy spacing, plenty of sun. I get good radishes in spring, great radishes in fall.

    Bookmark     April 17, 2015 at 5:14AM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
Deeby

I plant a little deeper than is advised. Before I did, I always washed the seeds away when watering.

    Bookmark     April 17, 2015 at 10:47AM
Sign Up to comment
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
farmerdill

I have found brown bead to be largely a function of variety. That probably also equates to water as brown bead is much more rare on high dome heading varieties versus those which are more flat. I depend on rainfall, but have more brown bead in rainy seasons with varieties like Packman.

    Bookmark     April 16, 2015 at 5:58PM Thanked by Else
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
Else(5)

Thank you very much! I just delivered a soil sample for nutrient testing, but that's good to know about nitrogen as I was reading that lack of nitrogen could be the problem.

We have already decided not to use the sprinklers for the tomato plants since it encourages early blight, but it's been so convenient! We're going to put in a drip system for them, so I suppose we'll just do that for other plants as well if we need to. I'll take your advice and not use sprinklers for the broccoli.

As far as variety, I've been purchasing whatever is available at our plant centers, whatever that might be. I'm not sure. I'll try to look into that and find out if a flat variety is available. Thanks so much!

    Bookmark     April 17, 2015 at 6:55AM
Sign Up to comment
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
sleevendog (5a NY)

Pictures are very helpful...and why you are getting responses. Otherwise it is just a guess as to what your questions refer to. And yes, like mentioned, compost your weeds. If left on your lawn they may take root but will create a lumpy lawn. Your compost bin is fine. Considered a passive system. Plant matter will take some time to compost down...really likes a bit more air circulation. But use what you have and plan for another/better compost system later. I do have one similar for garden trimmings and weeds but also have a built 3 bin system that cooks faster.

Those of us with years of experience really don't need to weed much if beds are tended throughout the year, put to bed and covered in the fall, etc...and properly mulched when planting. Just takes a bit of study.

You didn't mention what you might like to plant. I also suggest a spade. And double-digging. Starting at one end of the bed...dig up a shovelful, flip it over and pull/shake out the roots and weed matter. Going across in rows. It does take time but can be done a bit at a time.

OR, and maybe best, with not much time as it can be overwhelming, ...you could just dig three spots spaced evenly down the middle, about a two-by-2 ft square, (just three would not take much time), mix into each hole/area a bucket of good top soil to make mounds....or three bags of purchased soil.

Then cover the entire bed with weed barrier or plastic, and cut open the mounds to expose them. 5-8 seeds per hill of your choice like zucchini squash, winter squashes, pumpkins, ...put four of your stakes and make a teepee and grow some beans, sunflowers, A nice way to start slowly and get fast results for a first time garden. A nice way to start new beds. The rest of the bed will break down and be easier to clean up next year.

I started a new bed that way last year and had a few dozen winter squash that we ate throughout the fall up until the holidays.

    Bookmark     April 17, 2015 at 4:51AM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
sleevendog (5a NY)

a pic...from last year. My beds are cleaned up in the fall and covered. Ready to plant in the spring. Salad beds get planted thick, less weeds. veggie plants that need more room get mulched with straw, again no weeds. I only have the weekends to tend my garden. No time for weeding, just picking.

This year i start tomorrow...with early crops. And start/tend

a bed or two every week over the next 6 weeks. 2-3 hours a week is all it takes to tend an established garden.

    Bookmark     April 17, 2015 at 5:16AM Thanked by sevenebulas
Sign Up to comment
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
melikeeatplants

I had the same problem with local jalapenos, I got a biker billy and that gives a nice heat.

    Bookmark     April 16, 2015 at 9:20PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
bcomplx(z6VA)

Last year I grew Jalafuego from Johnny's and it was nice and hot, and plenty productive. Still eating salt-fermented ones, and dried lots more from only four plants.

    Bookmark     April 17, 2015 at 5:10AM
Sign Up to comment
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
shuffles_gw

soray, thanks. From the links you attached, it looks like it takes a very few leaves per recipe. I guess I will just add three or four leaves to my next curry.

    Bookmark     May 14, 2014 at 3:59PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
balconygardenweb

Ya only few leaves can give your curry amazing taste. Check out this link for complete growing guide of curry leaf plant http://balconygardenweb.com/curry-leaves-plant-complete-growing-guide//

    Bookmark     April 17, 2015 at 12:44AM
Sign Up to comment
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
njitgrad

Here is the garden as of today (after I replaced the rotting wood beds)...

1 Like    Bookmark     April 16, 2015 at 8:13PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
melikeeatplants

Looks good!

    Bookmark     April 16, 2015 at 9:17PM
Sign Up to comment
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
l_d_martin

Hey Dave, thanks for our response! Being right down in the bottom of Ontario, surrounded by the lakes keeps us a bit warmer. Even farther south in the Niagara region (protected even more by the lakes and a big escaprment) it get downright balmy, pushed even to zone 7a! Interestingly, zone maps from before 1980 have us listed as a 5.

Sorry I didn't realise the photo was so tiny - I have no clue how to resize it. My spacing is 8x2m (26x6 feet roughly).

    Bookmark     April 16, 2015 at 8:48AM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
balloonflower(5b Denver CO, HZ 5-6, Sunset 2b)

Having used Garden Planner in the past, I think I remember most of the plant spacing a being accurate. Maybe a little small on the tomato spacing--they can easily get bigger with certain varieties. What kinds specifically are you doing? Also, to me without seeing the spacing well enough, you may not have wide enough paths for harvesting--if it's 6', you won't be able to reach the center from each side.

    Bookmark     April 16, 2015 at 8:10PM
Sign Up to comment
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
Michael

If you can't raise the bridge, lower the river, I.E. move the garden to the creek? Just a thought.

    Bookmark     January 1, 2008 at 7:05PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
gracelanier

I see this post is from years ago, but we have run into the same issue at our house in middle tennessee. I'm just curious as to what you decided to do.

    Bookmark     April 16, 2015 at 6:39PM
Sign Up to comment
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
booberry85(5)

Red Brandywine - I got poor yields. I planted 5 plants and got one tomato. Not worth the time and effort in my opinion, but lots of people like it.

I've never grown Old Virginia or Goliath.

Celebrity, Big Beef and Romas have always given me good yields. Some people don't like Big Beef or Celebrity becuaes they taste like a "grocery store" tomato. I think they're fine tomatoes.

Matt's Wild Cherry gives crazy yields! It's my favorite to grow. Have a plan for when they start coming in. They don't keep well. They do have amazing big tomato taste in a tiny dime size fruit.

All plants were planted in the ground.

    Bookmark     April 16, 2015 at 12:43PM Thanked by yanksfan7
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
yanksfan7

Thanks for all the responses! I'll give some more growing info:

- I'm planting in a 4x4 raised bed, one that I've been growing in for 3 years.

- However, I'm going to plant some of the tomatoes in large pots, don't know the size in gallons, but each are somewhere around a foot and a half wide at the top. In the pots, I'm using very fertile potting soil, pots hold in moisture pretty well

- Soil stays pretty moist, lots of organic matter in the soil

- The nightly temps. average somewhere around 52-53 right now

- Location of the raised bed is pretty good, is shaded some, plants get enough sun but not too much

- I prune indeterminate varieties pretty occasionally

- Watering with a hose

- Big beef, brandywine, and goliath are transplants, rest I'm starting from seed

- Seed brands are Lake Valley Seed and Southern Exposure

    Bookmark     April 16, 2015 at 5:56PM
Sign Up to comment
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
barrie2m_(6a, central PA)

Normally you would start with a trench and within the trench you would plant and cover crowns with 3-4" topsoil, still leaving another 3-4" below grade for filling in as plants grow.

In concept you don't want to cover crowns with so much soil that it creates an impenetrable barrier for the new crown first growth, yet on the other hand the crowns should ultimately be low enough that they will never dry out. You may have started out planting crowns just below grade and so you'll likely need to ultimately create a raised row in order to sufficiently cover your crowns for long term crown health, a lot like a row of hilled potatoes. You don't want to cut new growth for these first few years as crowns become established and new growth is tender so wait until growth is higher (tougher) before hilling around spears.

    Bookmark     April 16, 2015 at 5:35AM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
barrypz

Asparagus needs a couple years to gather strength before you really harvest anything. Give te crowns lots of organics (compost) and they will repay you for the feeding.

    Bookmark     April 16, 2015 at 5:28PM
Sign Up to comment
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
wayne_5 zone 6a Central Indiana

I wonder if that mulch could be making a too wet environment for small seedlings.

    Bookmark     April 16, 2015 at 10:57AM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
grubby_AZ Tucson Z9

The visible shredded wood remnants are a non-issue. The odds also favor the little bugs outdoors to also be a temporary thing that's a non-issue; it's their territory after all and they're just taking advantage of current local conditions. Speaking of which, what's your area/zone/weather?

It's true that there is no way to diagnose too-wet conditions from a pic of the surface that's just been rained on, but low N is a good first call and some light fertilization should be OK to try. And just waiting a bit could work too!

    Bookmark     April 16, 2015 at 12:26PM
Sign Up to comment
© 2015 Houzz Inc. Houzz® The new way to design your home™