23,594 Garden Web Discussions | Vegetable Gardening
In Aug. 1997 I dug up some raspberries and planted them. The person that was supposed to house-sit while I was going on vacation had a last minute impediment and could not come. The rasps went unwatered for two weeks, but it rained, and they all made it. They are very tough. I would keep the pots in shade to minimize stress.
Not sure if I'm understanding your post. Are you saying that where you want to plant these raspberries is in heavy clay that you cannot dig in at the present time? I would think you would have more success if you dig that stuff up and get rid of it, put some decent soil in its place if you want the raspberries to do well.
They are very resilient plants, I agree. I had to rejuvenate the bed once when it was overtaken by quackgrass. Dug up the whole bed and got rid of most of it and took out the weeds...it was a vast improvement.
Most (better than 8 out of 10) of those affected pepper on that link are not BER. victims.
Yeah I guess you could say that since 8 out of 10 of the pics aren't even of peppers.
But the pics that are of peppers was the point and they are pics of BER on peppers. Bacteria? Sure. That's how BER works - a damaged portion of the fruit is created by the mal-distribution of calcium in the fruit and bacteria invade the damaged area causing the discoloration and rot. That doesn't mean it isn't BER.
Just as all varieties of tomatoes are subject to BER given the right conditions, so are all varieties of peppers.
There is ample credible info available about BER. Unfortunately there is also a ton of highly INaccurate, anecdotal info about it available. One has to evaluate the credibility of the source of the info when it comes to understanding its symptoms, its causes, and its controls.
The only reason I say the BER or sunscalded fruit isn't salvageable is that many find the taste affected, off, bitter, etc. if it tastes fine to you by all means use it.
Dave
Is there something premade and nice looking that I can easily put up?
Yes there are many things but they are also quite expensive. Just browse all the fencing options on sites such as Home Depot and Lowes. It doesn't take much handyman experience to drive some stakes into the ground and zip tie some small-hole fencing or hardware cloth to it.
But instead I'd suggest you focus on the real purpose of a fence - function, keeping the garden varmints out - rather than appearance. Many times the most attractive fences are also the least effective.
Dave
Yes, I was thinking of bedding under higher plants like tomatoes and under the shrubbery in the front yard landscaping.
The front yard landscaping may be ideal since the bed can have wood chips for mulch that also feeds the mushroom bed. It also would not be disturbed for annual planting.
One other spot would be under the fig tree after it gains some more height and spread.
I was hoping for someone on the forums to affirm and get me off to a good start with advice.
Yes, in my experience stropharia in the sun does not work. You may have tomatoes in there now, but next year the mulch will be in the sun and the fungus will suffer. So anywhere full shade, make your bed there. The northern side of the house is fine, I keep them under some arborvitae, which is hard on my back but good for them.
Two important things, the chips have to be fresh, from a live tree, which is not a conifer. Most chips from a tree company will, in fact, be from dead trees, which are already well inoculated with something else. I know a tree guy and he knows what I want. The other thing, start it well. Lots of moisture initially, perhaps a tarp on top to retain moisture. I now do only logs, and I always start them (summer or winter) in plastic bags in the basement, after soaking. They do get a bit moldy but the fungus takes 100% of the time. Once it is established, it is robust.
That's looking a lot like downy mildew.
Look under leaves for signs of black/white moldy looking spots that may be present on some of the leaves.
Avoid overhead/spray irrigation in the future if you're doing that currently.
It's one of those things that you can't take care of easily once it's shown up...you have to be preventative and lower risk before it shows up.
I planted Fordhook or Jackson Wonder... can't remember now. I have the same thing happening. A few shot up vines about 24" long. I put in a string trellis along the edge of a 4x4 raised bed and have about three 36" vines on it now. I would not bother trellising or staking. Just turn the runners back over the plant mass and let it go.
If your concern is the lower leaves of squash family, potato, tomato, ...then those are normal. Plants abort theirs lower leaves, and even branches, when they are no longer functional or needed.
Judging from the squash picture, it looks pretty normal. But a light doze of top dressing with an ALL PURPOSE fertilizer can help with color and vigor.
When I grow eggplant, I start off staking it with a 2ft piece of bamboo just so that it has support, but as it grows, the plant gets sturdier, and I find it no longer needs the bamboo. I don't cage my eggplant, but some prefer that method to keep the plant somewhat contained and supported (eggplant can get pretty big as it grows).
You can find tomato cages and stakes at your local garden supply store. Just make sure (if you go the cage route) to not get one that's too narrow. In my experience, my eggplant likes to grow a bit wider than my tomato plants.
Your plants look awfully close together. Is that four eggplant in 2 or 3 sqft? As they get bigger, they'll probably get too crowded.
This post was edited by Sromkie on Thu, Jun 27, 13 at 13:55
Got to agree you are way over-crowded there. Something has got to go. I eggplant in 2 sq. feet max. As for the holes, not an issue. Leaves get holes from lots of things - even just from whipping in the wind.
Those 3 ring tomato cage things ae a waste of time and money for tomato plants but work good for eggplants but you don't have enough room there to use them.
Lots of good articles on the web on how to grow various vegetables. Just Google "how to grow________ (name of vegetable)".
Dave
Dave
Here is a link that might be useful: How to grow eggplant
Those may be being sold more for potted plants where you would want to lean towards higher N to get foliar growth early on and use the lower N one for getting the foliar growth to ease up and the plants to develop and maintain flowers and/or fruit. It is likely the Higher N fertilizer will be more acidic than the other, haven't scrutinized the labels yet.
It does not mater who made them or selling them, they are basically different.
5-3-3- is richer in N, for things like leafy greens, 46%N, 27%P, 27%K'(comparatively)
3-4-4 is the opposite. 27%N, 36.5%P, 36.5%K. This better for things that flower/root/fruit. I would use this one for tomatoes.
I think they manufacture each element(N, P, K) separately and then mix them at various ratios with inactive ingredients.
If the flowers haven't opened up then the reason is probably related to the growing conditions. A squash flower won't get pollinated unless it opens (usually). Also, a female flower won't get pollinated without a male flower and if it doesn't get pollinated the plant aborts the fruit and the fruit shrivels (unless it's parthenocarpic, which means it doesn't need to get pollinated to set fruit).
If the plant is healthy the only thing I can suggest is to just wait for better weather and see if the problem corrects itself.
Rodney
Agree that if there have been no male flowers (some find only males and no females) then the plant is stressed and simply isn't ready to reproduce.
So there is no pollination problem since there is nothing there to pollinate them with. Usually they only open very early in the AM anyway - like just after dawn - so you may not see it.
As to why the plant is stressed, there can be many reasons. The rain is the most likely from the info you provide but nutrient levels and air temps and age of the plant also play a role.
I suggest you review the FAQs here on growing squash for more details.
Dave
Wow, that's really nice Rodney!!!
I went out and clipped the bulbils off a couple that were near the tops, and while I was at it I pulled back some soil to see how one of my bigger ones was doing... it doesn't look HALF as big as your last picture.
I can't recall the characteristics of the two kinds I have, but maybe they will never get that big. (Or maybe over time, as I keep amending the soil and selecting bigger bulbs - maybe they will grow bigger after all)
That local farmers market idea sounds like the plan though, if I decide to try my hand at some others, like Hardneck.....
Jerry
uscjusto- The white garlic you find in the supermarket is rather bland. It's amazing how much more flavor and aroma homegrown garlic has. Obviously different varieties have different flavors, some mellow out when you cook them and some keep their punch. As you found out, there are a ton of different garlic varieties.
Jerry- Thanks. It appears that my garlic is a week or two ahead of yours as the leaves of my softnecks are beginning to yellow already whereas yours still look dark green. About a week and a half ago I checked the size of my bulbs and they were maybe half the size they are now. Your garlic just needs time to size up.
I grow Inchelium Red (never had it grow scapes though) and it produces bulbs around the same size as Transylvanian. I poked around in the soil to check and sure enough, they are the same size. So just do as you said, amend the soil and select the biggest bulbs to replant and you'll have nice big bulbs of flavorful garlic.
Rodney