23,594 Garden Web Discussions | Vegetable Gardening
Ok.. so they're pretty well established. They can be transplanted but you want to go wide and deep with your shovel. Try to pull out the plant, dirt and all and lower it gently into the new hole, then break up soil around root ball, fill in soil, water deeply so plant and soil settle and then come back and level off with more soil. The main thing is the taproot -- if you can keep that intact, you should be fine.
By doing this, you're going to set it back quite some time. But peppers are very resilent -- as long as you have a decent warm season, you should still get a decent harvest.
it might just be easier(as others have mentioned) to trellis the cukes though, but still try to water the peppers less because of what I mentioned in first post.
Cages for peppers? They're perfect! They're cheap, reusable, easier than staking, and there's nothing worse than going out to the garden and finding a broken branch of immature peppers on the ground because the weight of the fruit was too much for the strength of the branch.
Good luck.
Kevin
That looks like wilt to me. generally starts at the bottom and works its way up the plant. I would give it a heavy dose of fungicide and you might be able to stop it. I've had wilt strip almost all my leaves off but the plant survived. I'm not sure if you could plant another plant in the same spot. Here's a Pink Russian with all the bottom leaves gone, but the plant survived.
Hi, This could also be a magnesium deficiency which is evident by yellowing of the leaves in cucumbers and tomatoes. This can be fixed by mixing two tablespoons of epsom salt to one gallon of water and give your plants a drink. You can also use it as a foliage spray. You can pick up a box of Epsom salt at the supermarket for about $2.00 per box and it should last all season. I hope this helps. Good luck :)
Very much so. Triple digits is normal for June. I don't use nitrogen on peas. so vines are small but productive. I do not grow varieties that I have to trellis. Too much work for me. On the other hands the vines get about the height advertised. Alaska is normally a 2 1/2 - 3 ft pea. Our winters occasional dip into the teens but middle 20's is the norm. Peas planted in late fall handle freezing temps as long as the ground does not freeze in the root zone. Re reading your description, I don't think you have Alaska. It has very small pods and small peas. Never had a pea grow over six ft mostly snap peas, although Tall Telephone will also. Never got any production from Tall Telephone tho. Freezonian, I grew years ago, very productive but got 4 ft tall. I planted double rows and strung a fence between the rows. I was younger and more energetic then.
I grow sugar snap peas because they seem to like this climate (central NC), are highly productive and very tasty, but they get very tall. Like 8 feet tall. Mine always end up falling over on the top because I don't have any trellises or bamboo rods that are high enough for them. I've never had a lot of luck with English peas - the productivity just isn't that great. I'd need to plant tons and tons of plants to have enough so that it's worthwhile.
It is both temperatures and day length. My Bok Choys bolted weeks ago and our night temps were in 40s and days in low 60s then. So there was no temperature issue.
I prefer chards over spinach because of two reasons: one, easy to grow ;;two , there is more texture to it. Now I have discovered a third reason, they don not bolt as easily.
thanks for the replies... Sadly, I don't have any shade at the moment... The peas are booming up their trellis, but it is not in a place that provides much shade in the bed... At any rate, the forecast is calling for excessive heat (for here) in a couple of days and I suspect the rest of my spinach and lettuce is going to be a goner... At least the tomatoes and eggplant and beans will pick up, though.
Rich_manure: I know!!! I thought I really figured it out with the tulle netting. However, I think I had it too tight against the leaves. If I had it to do over again, I would get a larger piece (I think you can get it 108" wide) and float it higher using poles or sticks to keep it above the leaves. This was my setup about a month ago:
I just skewered one!
This year I am growing Romanesco Zucchini which is supposed to be more resistant. The stems seem to be a bit thicker skinned. Still this one got through. It's not on the main branch and if I lose that one part, I will be ok. I am going to try the injectable BT since I'm also growing Butternut Squash and I don't want those to get ruined.
You can clearly see that the first creature has the back legs of a member of the grasshopper family, as katydids are. The beetle is clearly just that, with the legs and hard exoskeleton of the beetle family. No relation.
Dave: I am amazed at your knowledge of insects. There are scores of different kinds of katydids, and you named the specific one. I really appreciate your contributions to this forum.
Have you considered raising something less than a giant variety? Also, have you had success in the past with other varieties in other years?
Again, I ask how thick the corn is....that might hinder a giant variety from earing up.
This post was edited by wayne_5 on Wed, Jun 26, 13 at 17:17
I much prefer the older varieties of sweet corn that have retained the 'corn' flavor ... actually on the farm we ate field corn while it was young & that is what I liked! The newer varieties are sweet.. but to me lack the 'corn' flavor so I tried these two varieties to see. I have always grown corn so this & last year are the only problems I have had! E-mailed our County Extension Agent to see what may be the problem...
Once PM develops it remains active as long as the conditions (humidity and air temps) for its growth persist. When those conditions change it begins to slow and appears to die off but the fungus remains dormant on the plant. So it is still there even if you can't see it and eventually it will kill the plant. In the meantime you can harvest from it.
Fungicides only slow it, control it somewhat, they do not cure it. It can be prevented by spraying with fungicides before the fungus attaches to the leaves (so from the day of plant out or seedling emergence), but it can't be cured once it develops.
Leaf removal is no problem as it doesn't stress the plant anymore than it already is stressed by the PM.
Dave
Ah, that makes sense. Hopefully the rain will leave us alone for a while.
I'd never considered eating radish greens, somehow the texture seems off-putting. But, I'm willing to try anything. Googling it, it seems they are used a lot in Indan cooking, which I love. Silver lining!
You may be surprised at how good radish greens are. I especially like them as an ingredient in soups such as Portuguese kale soup. They are tastier than many other greens. Cooked, texture is a non-issue. I have even found their texture to be fine raw in a salad of mixed greens.
Jim
This post was edited by jimster on Wed, Jun 26, 13 at 14:01
Can I transplant it? Does it need to grow vertical?
That watermelon does looks a bit scrawny. It wouldn't be worth the effort to transplant it. Cucurbits don't like their roots to be disturbed. You can replant new seeds in a different spot of your garden if you are willing to try. However, watermelon plants get huge, much bigger than cucumbers. So if you are having trouble controlling your cukes you are going to have a devil of a time controlling the watermelons. (I saw your other post). As for growing vertical, watermelons are best left to sprawl along the ground.
Rodney