23,948 Garden Web Discussions | Vegetable Gardening
The poster was working with containers. When you're doing square-inch gardening, the point is to keep it going and have fun.
In winter I like keeping a pot of scallions in the sunniest window. I weaken them terribly with constant snipping, but wouldn't be without them.
The plants will self regulate and produce between 3 and 5 good fruits each, more if it is a small-fruited variety. At this point, you just let em run. Unlike most C. pepos, spaghetti squash stays close to the ground and develops supplemental roots where the stems touch the soil. Even if the primary crown is lost to borers, strong plants will keep on going.
I use ½" mainline tubing with several lengths of ¼" dripline coming off it at the head of each bed  like soaker hoses, but more flexible and durable. Assembly is easy and it works like a charm. It's been easy to extend as I've added to the garden.
I keep it on a timer. I like watering in the pre-dawn hours, which gives the plants a chance to take up the water before the sun evaporates it. On each watering day, I have it set to water for 5-10 minutes, then wait an hour, then water another 5-10 minutes, etc. That seems to saturate the soil better with less runoff than one long continuous watering.
Dripworks, where I bought mine, offers a design service  you send them a sketch of your garden and they'll design a system for you. They've been excellent  knowledgeable, ship promptly, know their products and have a good range of solutions, from farms to square foot gardens. It's worth ordering their catalog to check out some options.
OK, so if they are leeks they are essentially biennial and will flower in their second year from seed. So the plants you have are going to flower either this year or next. I'm not sure what your goal is with rooting them. Is it curiosity to see what happens or do you hope for another harvest from them? If you want good quality leeks for eating it would be best to start again from seed. You don't say where you live so we can't say if these will over-Winter in your zone. Personally, I think the one on the left is going to flower soon anyway.
hey all - again, thanks for your responses! yes my object was really just curiosity and now i have seen that they grow really well. maybe not for eating, but just as plants. i live in SF, Ca in a transitional/partly foggy area. I guess I'll plant them in the yard and see what happens. Thanks!
If the wounds are deep, they likely will spoil. what is the hurry to remove fruits...to set more? If the plants are really healthy and stay that way till frost, they can set on more anyway. Course that 'really healthy thing' is a big if as the season progresses.
Your plants have Bacterial Speck IMO but the treatment for all the leaf diseases is the same - strip off affected foliage ASAP, cease any overhead watering/sprinkling, and spray with fungicides on a regular basis to slow the progression of the disease till you can get a harvest. There is no "cure".
And yes there are a number of ORMI approved fungicides available although their benefits are questionable when compared to chemical controls.
As already mentioned you can learn much more about all this over on the forum for growing tomatoes here.
Dave
Thanks for the tips! I will head over there. Now I am not sure which one I have. I swore I had septoria leaf but don't have a pic to post. Removed and disposed of all affected leaves and I am going to start spraying the only acceptable fungicide by my picky community and hope for the best :).
Great story. You have a right to be proud of your success. It always makes me chuckle hearing people rave about how delicious fresh home-grown produce harvested at peak is. I have come to expect such quality every year during harvest time, it is a normal thing for me and my fellow gardeners. Think about what so many people are missing out on. Such is life in the modern urban society I guess, really rather sad when one thinks about it.
I apologize for going off-topic but regarding the food shelf idea, I offered to give excess produce to my local food shelf. They said I had to fill out a pile of forms and agree to spot health department inspections. I could also be held liable if anyone got sick from what I donated, potentially even if the produce was contaminated after it left my control. I also would have to pick everything myself and drive it the one hour round trip to where the county food shelf is located. The simple fact is that people want free food, no strings attached. Most do not want to put forth any effort to acquire it. Heck, I was even told not to bring shell peas because nobody wants to have to shell them before using.
Forget all that. What extra that I do not give away to family, friends, neighbors, and/or local elderly gets tossed on the compost pile, with a clear conscience and no regrets.
Congratulations on your success!
-Tom
European type radishes are noted for their "bite". They do vary with some being relatively mild. You have to choose whether you want a pungent radish or a mild one. Among the easiest and quickest is Scarlet Globe. 
Some are pretty, have good pungentcy but are tempermental to grow. Sparkler and French Breakfast fit into that category. 
My favorite open pollinated mild radish is Pink Beauty. 
Of course you have a whole line of the larger winter radishes (oriental) which range from very mild to pungent. My favorite is this category is Watermelon. 
The small side shoots aren't worth it IMO. Pull those and start new plants for fall. For future reference, even in your zone, broc will usually have bolted or be close to it by mid-late June. It just gets too hot for them.
Dave
Summer side shoots aren't worth much, but the same plants can produce prodigious side shoots when fall comes - some as big as the original main head. I always pick varieties for their side shoot production and leave them in place for fall.
If all I ever got from broccoli were the single heads, I wouldn't bother growing them at all.
Oops I just realized I posted this in the veggies forum... sorry! I always kind of mentally group nasturtiums with salad greens because they go in salads...
3 hours of morning light is not considered Direct Sun, but give it a go, you should at least get lots of green leaves.