23,821 Garden Web Discussions | Vegetable Gardening

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elisa_z5

You can cut the outer, larger leaves, and the inner ones will grow bigger and you'll have another harvest in under a week.

OR, if the plants are growing very close together, then cut some down to the base (but don't cut the base off -- this will regrow) and the ones that are left will have more room to grow, thus increasing your harvest as well.

Correct -- don't pull them up.
No dumb questions!

Elisa

    Bookmark     July 10, 2013 at 2:48PM
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insteng

Yes if you skip a few days it is amazing what changes you see in your garden. Mine is at my ranch and I am only there on the weekends. I have to have a neighbor come by a couple times a week to pick the garden because it gets out of hand otherwise.

    Bookmark     July 10, 2013 at 10:59AM
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richdelmo

I'm going have to try the trip to Washington gardening method, sounds like a winner.

    Bookmark     July 10, 2013 at 2:41PM
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planatus(6)

When only one plant is affected like this, I suspect either physical injury to the roots by a tunneling critter or a virus. If you had herbicide drift it would not be just one plant. If you had a root disease you would see leaf discoloration. Viral infection is a possibility because the growth pattern has gone wonky. I have often seen viruses infect a few plants and leave others nearby unaffected. If it were mine I would compost it.

    Bookmark     July 10, 2013 at 11:40AM
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AiliDeSpain(6a - Utah)

Thank you everyone. I did consider curly top as it does look consistent with the symptoms of such, I also considered that maybe this one got planted over a gopher tunnel, which I have many of, although no active gopher residing in them since early spring when I trapped the one I had. I think I will pull it. sniffles. ;)

    Bookmark     July 10, 2013 at 11:58AM
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insteng

Once they mature you will have more than you can eat.

    Bookmark     July 10, 2013 at 10:47AM
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planatus(6)

Throughout tomato season I keep at least one broad bowl on the table for collecting ripening fruits. The little tomatoes I wash as soon as I bring in, so that if anyone wants to eat them, they are ready.

I dry the cherries and plums, so I often must save up for a few days to get a full deydrator batch. The important thing is to keep them at warm room temps and never chill them.

    Bookmark     July 10, 2013 at 11:35AM
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uscjusto

I'm not a pepper grower but I was thinking about it.
Are the peppers in the photos spaced out sufficiently?
Looks a little tight.

    Bookmark     July 10, 2013 at 10:52AM
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shermthewerm(8 PNW)

The peppers look nice & green, but a little small to be fruiting. One thing to keep in mind when you're planting is the watering needs for the vegetables, Cucumbers need a lot more water than peppers, so it's going to be tricky to keep the cukes well-watered without over-watering the peppers.

    Bookmark     July 10, 2013 at 11:34AM
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seysonn(8a WA/HZ 1)

Just try to get rid of the snails/slugs. The slimy substance is the "foot print " of the snails. If you are concerned, just wash it off with spray bottle filled with water.
But the main thing is to kill and/or keep the snails away.

    Bookmark     July 10, 2013 at 12:49AM
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sunnibel7 Md 7(7)

Iron phosphate pellets will work for the snails and are considered organic. They come in various brands like Sluggo, Escar-go, and the one I have is Slug Magic (which brings some amusing pictures to mind). The slime trail left behind isn't anything to worry about and actually was a very helpful clue to the nature of your pest. Cheers!

    Bookmark     July 10, 2013 at 11:28AM
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lonmower(zone8 Western Oregon)

I DID send a photo to Dixondale and got another email back from their President which I include below. (to me this is still a mystery)

Uneven irrigation of onion fields increases the incidence of this disorder.

Fields that are over-irrigated, allowed to dry completely and then over-irrigated

again often have many split bulbs. This condition is more prevalent in areas

of the field were stands are thin or uneven. These openings can provide an

entrance for secondary microorganisms, which cause bulb decay.

The Sterling variety is not particularly prone to this splitting of bulbs but the

other varieties may have been more evenly irrigated. We have had no other complaints.

Is there anything different about the soil or drainage in the area you planted the Sterling?

Bruce L Frasier

President

Dixondale Farms, Inc

    Bookmark     July 9, 2013 at 4:11PM
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sunnibel7 Md 7(7)

Well, it seems they are doing their best to help you understand. They have a good reputation, so probably the problem does lie somewhere in your planting area if not in the cultivar. Or maybe a better way to say it is if all other things are equal, maybe that cultivar isn't suited to your conditions. I understand the explanation just fine, it's the same thing that causes splitting in fruits like tomatoes and melons, splits in carrot roots, etc. Were these in a low spot in your garden maybe? You thought you were keeping them evenly watered but weren't? I still haven't seen an onion split from the roots before, but I'm willing to concede that my experience is limited to quite a few less onions than the folks at Dixondale. :)

    Bookmark     July 10, 2013 at 11:21AM
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laceyvail(6A, WV)

Bacterial wilt resistant cukes include County Fair (a great cuke) and Little Leaf--both bacterial wilt and downy mildew resistant.

    Bookmark     July 10, 2013 at 6:46AM
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ltilton

I've tried some of those last year. Bacterial wilt killed them.

Also, the cukes that claim resistance all seem to be pickling varieties.

    Bookmark     July 10, 2013 at 9:43AM
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fern1knits

Sounds like lack of pollination. You could try hand pollinating, or just wait to see if conditions get better for pollination. On my eggplant, I had several flowers bloom and then die, but I now have loads of fruit growing.

Info from the below website:

What to do for eggplant blossoms drying out due to a lack of pollination:

An eggplant flower is normally wind pollinated, meaning it does not rely on insects like bees and moths to pollinate it. A pollination problem can occur when the weather conditions are very wet or very humid or are very hot. When the air is very humid, this causes the pollen eggplant flower to become very sticky and it cannot fall down onto the pistil to pollinate the flower. When the weather is very hot, the pollen becomes inactive because the plant thinks that it cannot support the stress of an additional fruit along with the hot weather. In a sense, the plant aborts the blossom so as not to stress itself further.

Eggplant flower hand pollination:

If you suspect your eggplant flowers fall off due to a lack off pollination, then you can use hand pollination. Eggplant flower hand pollination is easy to do. All you need to do is take a small, clean paintbrush and move this around the inside of the eggplant flower.

http://www.gardeningknowhow.com/edible/vegetables/eggplant/what-to-do-for-eggplant-blossoms-drying-out-and-falling-off.htm

    Bookmark     July 10, 2013 at 9:18AM
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mandolls(4)

I am in Wi about an hour for the twin cities. My peas are doing really well. I planted them later than I should have and they are right now at their most productive phase. They are only getting about 5-6 hours of sun, which I think is helping them survive the warmer weather we are having now. I am growing Super Sugar Snaps, Oregon Sugar snaps and Mr. Big.

    Bookmark     July 10, 2013 at 7:14AM
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seysonn(8a WA/HZ 1)

It is time for beans. Generally. in most places that daily highs climb over 85F, peas will not do well, instead there is an opportunity for beans. ...got to go with the flow.

    Bookmark     July 10, 2013 at 7:38AM
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shermthewerm(8 PNW)

We had an unusually dry June & so far no rain in July. We can go from the 90's back down to the 60's the next day, but mostly we've been having pretty sunny weather this summer (so far...).

I don't remember ever having tomato plants grow to 5" before August, but that's what I'm seeing this year. Kind of a nice change.

How about your weather? I think you guys are getting our rain.

So, am I correct that I could/should harvest & replant towards the end of summer?

    Bookmark     July 9, 2013 at 9:02PM
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pnbrown

Yes, setting out basal bulbs and/or top sets in late summer at a good spacing (6-8 inches) with some compost or manure will result in bigger plants than just letting them "walk".

We had a lot of rain until a couple of weeks ago but it's now getting a little dry. Looks like rain today.

    Bookmark     July 10, 2013 at 6:52AM
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smoochas(zone 7a-NYC)

Thanks Rodney, So for production sake, its best to let the tip keep growing and also all the suckers? So that there will be new spots/armpits for new cukes to grow?

    Bookmark     July 9, 2013 at 11:01PM
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uscjusto

If you keep pinching the growing tip, new growth will occur in the middle of the vine still.
Vines will grow out from the middle of the main vine.

    Bookmark     July 9, 2013 at 11:10PM
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theforgottenone1013(MI zone 5b/6a)

len, what nancyjane_gardener basically has is a raised planter with a bottom, on legs, and with a total soil depth of 1 foot.

Rodney

    Bookmark     July 9, 2013 at 4:52PM
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nancyjane_gardener(Zone 8ish North of San Francisco in the "real" wine country)

weirdtrev that's exactly what I have! Sorry I didn't describe it better!
We jacked it up enough to hold it for now, but will have to do some re-building after the season. Nancy

    Bookmark     July 9, 2013 at 8:54PM
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wayne_5 zone 6a Central Indiana

I agree with rita.

    Bookmark     July 9, 2013 at 7:14PM
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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

Agree. Mine were finished 3 weeks ago. In your zone you probably got another week but that's it.

Dave

    Bookmark     July 9, 2013 at 7:34PM
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elisa_z5

Nila, thanks for the tip on using almost open flowers. I was able to get two male flowers from a close neighbor today -- his plants were a fraction of the size of mine, and no female flowers, but lots of male flowers. Go figure.

Are your squash inedible because of cross pollination this year, or were the seeds of cross pollinated fruit?

    Bookmark     July 9, 2013 at 6:17PM
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tcstoehr(8b Canby, OR)

Cross pollination will not affect any qualities of the subsequent fruits. But it will affect the fruit of plants grown from the cross pollinated seeds.

    Bookmark     July 9, 2013 at 7:12PM
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