23,948 Garden Web Discussions | Vegetable Gardening
I don't think they like it too well, but like someone once said... they don't know until they try it. And enough were trying it on mine that I fenced mine in.
I used some deer-away spray on bush beans and things like that, and it really works. But I didn't want that rotten egg smell on my asparagus. (I now have everything fenced)
I have some relation who have a patch and the deer don't bother it at all.
But again, I was finding a few chomped on (and then they'd just drop it on the ground!!!) so I decided to protect my investment.
Just didn't have enough to go around......
They have chomped my asparagus, many times, in an area with high deer pressure. The only things that do not get eaten are things with thorns, roses, all manners of thistle, brambles, nettles seem to do well,
some small thorny trees (buckthorn I think). I am waiting for the border vegetation to grow, then fence and replant where asparagus has been killed (some of it is alive if stunted). I have also a bed next to my house with 20 asparagus, that goes untouched, but I think it is due to hostas and other tastier plants nearby, and the deer pressure at my house is low.
Are the puncture wounds on the leaf stems and fruit maybe from squash bugs? And the sawdust looking stuff that doesn't brush off at the base is some sort of mildew or dry rot? I have copper and Organicide (that says it can be used for powdery mildew or black spot on roses, I was planning on using it for the SB nymphs and what I think are leafhoppers anyway)?
I used a mix of vigero potting mix and vigero organic garden soil to fill the main beds, and straight potting mix in the cinderblock holes.
@ Cara Rose,
You have been using expensive stuff and definitely getting rewards for it. Everything looks great.
I had that happen to me last year when I planted late in the season.
I doubt though that what you are experiencing was under the same conditions as what I was working with then. Not enough sunlight during the day was probably my problem. My corn this year just shot up almost 2 feet in a week!
:)
Many of my corns showed tassels when the corns were that short. Shouldn't worry though. The corn should still grow more. Mine grew to about 5 to 6' tall.
But here in California, they were planted around March, and they were all harvested before the 4th of July.
I have the exact same thing - it's a fungal disease, probably Angular Leaf Spot. I have done nothing because the rain is incessant and very heavy. I don't have the resources or desire to spray fungicide several times a day (it has been raining that much). I remove the worst leaves and trellis what vines I can. Still getting fruit and new growth, for now. Angular Leaf Spot (bacterium - Pseudomonas syringae pv. lacrymans): This disease appears on leaves, stems and fruit. Spots are small, angular, straw-colored and watersoaked. Leaf spots often dry and fall out giving the leaf a âÂÂshot-holeâ appearance, similar to those caused by anthracnose. Spots on fruit are usually smaller and circular in shape. Bacteria overwinter in crop residue and on seed. Hard rains splash the bacteria to stems and leaves. The disease may reach epidemic proportions during periods of heavy rains, particularly if temperatures remain high. Crop rotation with non-cucurbit crops is helpful for control of angular leaf spot. Application of copper fungicide will assist in control. Cucurbits, however, are sensitive to copper when young, and repeated applications of copper may cause yellowing of foliage around the edges of the leaves.
Here is a link that might be useful: Texas Plant Disease Handbook
It might be angular leaf spot but mine are actually holes so I'm not certain its the same thing. I have been checking for beetles morning, day, and night and see none.
As I am get new growth, I trim off the worst leaves daily. The new growth seems to be unaffected. I wonder if it has anything to do with the slime mold that formed on my beds at the start of July. I covered my beds with Long Island garden mulch and it literally formed a solid surface on my beds. I removed it as soon as I noticed it and have since covered the beds with fresh compost.
I'm pretty sure once again I'm going to be disappointed with a shortened bounty after a great start. This is frustrating for me because at my old house (5 miles away) I used to have so many cukes that I couldn't even give them all away. Tomatoes too.
Duplicate post. See link below.
Here is a link that might be useful: original post
LOL! No matter how old you get and how much experience you have, parents never seem to want your advice! I'm nearly sixty and I told my Dad that it was not necessary to paint tar onto the wounds after he pruned trees. He told me that he didn't have a very high opinion of science....which made me wonder why he's willing to go to a doctor, but I didn't say that. Just chuckled and told him that they ARE his trees and he can do as he wants...
Sandpaper, I would second the motion for crowder peas or okra. They both come right up and do very well no matter how hot it is.
I mentioned this in the other thread, but nearly all stables in the Chicagoland area bed on wood shavings rather than straw. They also don't really compost, they just pile up used bedding and manure till they have too much and then have someone haul some away.
Decaying wood, I believe, consumes N. So you're manure component, may have been low on N to begin with, and been depleting any other N once it's been mixed in.
I got the compost from the horse stables on 130th and Lagrange ave. also plants are growing but are still small for this time of year and wore pal with tints of yellowing early season till I added tomatoe tone. And I think it used all of the n up in that. Here's my garden now