24,795 Garden Web Discussions | Vegetable Gardening

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ceth_k(11)

This looks like interveinal necrosis(dead between the veins), a deficiency symptom of potassium K.

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Beeone(4 N. Wyo.)

What temperature are you keeping them at? Growing tomatoes at too cool a temperature seems to promote this problem--most likely the cool temps inhibit potash (and other nutrient) uptake.

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fusion_power

Red Moon & Stars is a mediocre watermelon, but Yellow Moon & Stars is outstandingly good.

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wayne_5 zone 6a Central Indiana

I liked the taste of BCs Klondike Striped Blue Ribbon watermelon although it is kind of soft [not crispy]. I didn't do well with Moon and Stars. Granted, it was not in a best spot that year.

I prefer watermelons like Sangria, Raspa, Yellow Crimson, and Cooperstown [seedless]. I like Sugar Queen, Goddess, and Burpee Early Crenshaw for cantaloupes. All these are super delicious.

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drscottr(7)

Would just go directly to Rupp's website. They're a great company and have been reliable ove r the years. Sometimes their minimal sized package is too big for me but often a pound of seeds from Rupp costs about the price of a packet from Burpee or Johnny's.

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groall

Thanks Drscott....I went right to their web site and ordered their catalog.......thought they would only sell to retailers....I don't mind ordering a few extra seeds.....

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Creek-side(5)

Lots of great info. Thanks again. I'm wondering if any of the varieties mentioned here are ones from which I can be successful saving seeds.

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zeedman Zone 5 Wisconsin

"I'm wondering if any of the varieties mentioned here are ones from which I can be successful saving seeds."

Reading back over this thread, I realize I drifted away from the original question in my last post. "Fortex" and "Emerite" are pole snap beans, not limas. I have, however, been able to save seed from both. "Fortex" is very slow to mature, and a bit of a challenge to get dry seed here.

Not sure of your location Creek-side, but I assume your climate is not much different that my East-central Wisconsin location. Chances are that unless foul weather prevents you from planting on time, you should be able to save seed from almost any commercially available edamame soybean. "Envy" and "Agate" (and "Cha Kura Kake", if you can find it) are early varieties; you are almost certain to get dry seed from them, even in less than perfect years. "Butterbean", "Shirofumi", and "Sayamusume" are later, and might be racing the frost for maturity some years... but I have saved seed from all of them successfully. The later varieties tend to have the largest seeds & heaviest yields.

Limas are more difficult (especially if direct seeded) for the reasons already given. Small-seeded bush varieties like "Henderson" and "Thorogreen" are the earliest, and probably the best bet to save seed from. Large-seeded bush varieties like "Fordhook 242" and "Burpee's Improved" are possible to save seed from (I have) but you might get very little - or none - in cool or wet years.

"Sieva" and "Carolina Red" are two of the earliest pole varieties, and the only two that are reliable here when direct seeded. If planted on time (June 1st for me) they should produce plenty of dry seed. Large-seeded pole limas are difficult to get seed from in our climate, at least on a reliable basis. However, most limas will (usually) give you a good crop - and at least some dry seed - if started early as transplants.

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dirtguy50 SW MO z6a(6a)

So how did this years crop do that you planted in August?

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waiting_gw

It's funny, when I was about 9 (MANY years ago) I planted an area of turnips, probably about 15' x 8'. Knew nothing about turnips, didn't even like them. Just had a packet of seeds from somewhere.

We had so many turnips that year. Didn't even harvest them all, just left them to rot.

This August's planting was 2 10' rows. We're hoping we'll get enough for a couple of meals from the ones still going.

August temps were in the high ninetys and hundreds, same with most of September. Even October was mostly 80s. We kept them watered, but no precipitation at all.

Guess we'll try again next year.

gary

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NHBabs(4b-5aNH)

There are also some tomato varieties that are grown specifically for storage, such as Long Keeper, Ruby Treasure, Winterkeeper, and Yellow Out Red. If you do a web search you will find directions for optimal storage conditions as well.

Peppers will store for a while in the fridge as well.

And then there are the veggies grown for storage in a cold cellar such as cabbage, potatoes, winter squash, sweet potatoes, etc.

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grandad_2003(9A/sunset 28)

Regarding the paper bag approach mentioned above... My comments are: 1) IME it works well. 2) I did not use a paper bag. Instead I individually wrapped each tomato in a piece of newspaper and put them in a single layer in a cardboard box. This approach made it easy to identify a tomato which spoiled and to then discard it before it contaminated the rest of the bunch.

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superoxide

oh that white stuff is some leftover perlite I threw in
Someone told me I am over watering, can that be the problem?
I don't think I have used too much fertilizer, potting mix is coco peat, compost and perlite

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woohooman San Diego CA zone 10a

I don't know where you're located but if you're anywhere in the North America, growth is going to be slow. Overwatering or fertilizing may be an issue though. For overwatering, that's easily fixed --- wait until you see the plant wilt before watering.

What are you using for ferts?

Is that particle board/plywood? The glues and chemicals used in processing can't be good for any soil.

Kevin

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ceth_k(11)

They are so pretty! Thanks for sharing jrslick.

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squirrellypete(z7b AL)

Thank you Donna for the info about ripening, and thank you for the list Farmerdill!! I'll have to order and try some of these this year.

Jay, your peppers are just lovely!

I think I'm putting Lilac and Tequila on the top of the list based on both of your recommendations.

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sunnyinsandiego(USDA 9/Sunset 20)

Well you know. Patience has not always been my strongest suit :-) I still have several more SmartPots going, but I emptied one out just to see what was going on and I would say, out of 5 plants, I probably got about 7 pounds. Could definitely see lots of babies that undoubtedly would have grown bigger, but what can I say, we had a good dinner :-)

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sweetquietplace(6 WNC Mtn.)

Good for you! They look lovely. Thanks to you, I've just made up my mind to add another row to my potato patch.

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jean001a(Portland OR 7b)

link to your other post:
http://forums.gardenweb.com/forums/load/gourds/msg1216491422433.html

Here is a link that might be useful: other thread

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seysonn(8a WA/HZ 1)

Getting thing like tomatoes, peppers, eggplants, early in ground in cool air and soil temperatures, without special provisions has NO advantages and often causes stress and delayed growth. If Nothing else, they will not move much.
Provisions to extend your season (in spring) are: Wall O Water, Cold Frame, Hoop, Row Cover, covering soil with black plastic.
Peppers, in particular need warmer temps to take off but they actually do not need real hot weather.
As mentioned, you have to look into prolific types. I am personally in the same situation. I have abandoned growing bells. Instead I plant things like Cubanelle, gypsy, banana, cascabel and some mild peppers with some heat.

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laceyvail(6A, WV)

In over 40 years of gardening I never had much success with bells--late fruit and then not very many. Then I started to grow Corno di toro, an Italian pepper that, while not bell shaped, tastes like a bell. Seed is available for both red and yellow. Corno di toros are very early and very prolific.

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lavender_lass(4b)

I don't understand spraying the leaves. Isn't that unhealthy, if you plan to eat the plants? Maybe try some diluted fish fertilizer around the roots, next time? My mom has success with that...I just put lots of aged horse manure in the soil and don't fertilize with anything else. So far, so good :)

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Natures_Nature(5 OH)

"I don't understand spraying the leaves. Isn't that unhealthy, if you plan to eat the plants?"

There's no toxic chemicals in compost tea.. Only thing that would be a concern is the bacteria and other pathogens.. If you are using tap water, that would be a second, that's about it..

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sunnibel7 Md 7(7)

Looks like some type of cowpea to me. Here's your link in a clickable form.

Here is a link that might be useful: Your link

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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

The first reply on the other forum got it right - cowpeas, aka field peas. Classic eye on the seed.

Looks like mostly Haricot Rouge or a similar red one. Might also have some Black Beans in there but the black ones could be just very old dried peas.

Dave

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Natures_Nature(5 OH)

If i was in your shoes, i would add compost and an organic source of nitrogen(blood,feather,alfalfa meal,etc.. I wouldn't go out of the way throwing sulfer or any synthetic chemicals to lower pH or fertilize.. Most plants do just fine in that pH... Plus the compost will probably help balence the pH..

So i would add a compost(least couple inches, ideally)and mulch(couple inches) with leaves, grass clippings, straw, etc.. Probably add some organic fertilizer, or compost if the plants seem yellow and deficient.. Keep adding compost every season.. That's about it..

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sunnibel7 Md 7(7)

Nancy-literally!

Not much to add, except I think chard, beets, and maybe spinach all like a higher pH. So your soil might grow some really good ones.

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daninthedirt(Cent TX; HZ10, Sunset z30, USDA z8a)

Well, if we're talking about baking compost, get out the clothespins and put them on your nose! Ick. Don't do that.

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Creek-side(5)

I have grown hundreds of pepper, tomato and other vegetables per year for the better part of 50 years, using just soil from my garden with a little perlite and dried moss mixed in. I have never any sort of issue with losing plants, or even with any significant number of weeds to deal with. Call it dumb luck.

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