23,594 Garden Web Discussions | Vegetable Gardening

I guess that I'll never know what the worms were. They were nowhere near as big as any corn borer that I have ever seen. They were about the size of 1/4" to 3/8" long pieces of spaghetti and they were white. I guess that it could have been the larvae of some moth.

None of the other vines seem to be affected, so maybe I should just count my blessings. I'm just wondering, though, if there's some type of prophalactic treatment that could be given to the rest. What do you do for vine boring pests?

Spinosad has worked for me with various borers (including squash vine borer), in conjunction with digging as many as possible out of the vine with a bent pin.

Spray spinosad in early morning or late evening, as it can do harm to day-flying beneficials as well as the baddies.

Liquid fertilizer probably isn't needed. Why not sprinkle on a granular organic designed for vegetables? There are several to choose from and they also contain micronutrients. Feed the soil, and it will feed the plants.

Here is a link that might be useful: My raised bed garden

I use a sprinkler system a fanout spray type one. Here in N.Y. we got alot of rain the past few weeks so the soil is moist. The 2 main issues I have is the basil looks like somethings eating it and its not growing as nice as it usually does. the peppers are staring to flower, fruit, and a few tomato plants are starting. I planted string beans last week and nothing sprouted through the ground yet but I guess more time is needed. I just want to stay on top of my garden to make sure it keeps flourishing, One other thing I noticed is compared to my father in laws (a few blocks away) garden his lettuce grew fast while mine grew nice but seems stunted which is what makes me think I need fertilizer.

The mantids are good. So funny to look at. They turn their heads and look at you. I haven't seen any this year. Hope they are around.

I saw some a couple days ago and they must have just hatched as they were only a half inch long.

Rodney

I never try to outsmart a plant when it comes to producing fruit. I don't know more about it than the plant does.

If I don't like what it does, I have veto power. (I can pull it up and kill it!)

Doesn't sound like you have a problem. Jalapenos aren't necessarily that big, and it won't be straining an 18-inch plant to be working on some. I have six TAM Jalapeno plants that large going right now, and I have a couple of fruit on each at a time. They haven't stopped growing while fruiting, and I'm harvesting regularly.

Remember that peppers are perennials. They just keep going, and going, and going.

Not sure where you are, but if you're in the south, and it's getting hot, those peppers are going to start growing like crazy.

like above depends on where you are located like for here in CA right now the only thing i think you could plant where i am is corn or more tomatoes or squash or pumpkins or water melons mostly anything summer related due to the fact that we will probably see 4 more months of warm dry sunny weather here in the central valley. right now I'm struggling to get my broccoli to finish to harvest since i planted late but there are doing okay and the heads are starting to develop even though we been having some above average temps lately.

In my zone: starting Savoy cabbage next week for winter harvest, mid July: fall carrots, beets, late beans and summer squash, early August: turnips, escaroles, Asian radishes, early Sept, fall/winter lettuces. Still lots of time here for lots of stuff.

"Florida Weave" is what I do to tie up my tomatoes.
Below is the link on a youtube video.

Here is a link that might be useful: youtube video of florida weave

Wayne:

"You must live in a dry area!"

I live in the garden spot of the world (NW KS). Average annual precip. about 15". Last two years, 60+ days/yr over 100F. Every year since I have been gardening here (started 2004) I have had at least one 70MPH or higher wind. Can't keep corn upright unless it is rooted deep.

With enough irrigation, local farmers do grow lots of corn, but water is getting scarce. They are now dry-land farming where I used to fish.

I think our new economy is going to be based on wind generated electricity, if the government subsidies continue to waste our tax dollars to build otherwise uneconomical systems.

Our average 20-25MPH wind will spin those generators well. I'm afraid our 70-80MPH winds will blow them down.

This post was edited by tdscpa on Sat, Jun 15, 13 at 3:05

For facts about BER, rather than popular wisdom, see the Tomato Forum FAQ at http://faq.gardenweb.com/faq/tomato/

Here is a link that might be useful: BER is 2nd item in FAQ

BER is usually (not always) caused by the gardener, not the soil with Irregular watering being the culprit. The soil should not dry out or be too soggy. The problem is more common in sandy soils. It's not always that calcium is lacking in the soil, but that it isn't reaching the cells in the fruit. It is more common in larger tomatoes. You don't see cherry tomatoes with BER.

Here is a link that might be useful: Blossom end rot

Bulblet development in garlic is often a reaction to stress. Likely the head of garlic will be fine or possibly a bit on the small side.

As was said, you can plant bulblets at the normal garlic planting time. The result from planting a bulblet will be a larger ball -- called a "round."

You can eat a round when harvested. Or you can replant at the normal time, with the result that you will get a large head of garlic.

Well, let me chime in and say that I am a bit warmer than you - just North of Phoenix, AZ - and I harvested my garlic about 10 days ago. Here is a pic of what the bed looked like a couple of weeks prior to harvest. From what I read online, once the flower stalks appear (the white, spikey buds at the ends of long stems) one should cut back on or quit watering altogether to force growth energy to the bulb. Also, feel around under the soil of one bulb and check to see if you can detect the bulbs and feel the cloves under the skin. This is another sign of readiness. The flower stems will also start to "loop" and depending on variety, hard or soft neck, one should stop watering, cut off the flower heads, leave the flowers on or stand on one's own head after the flower stems "make" one or two loops, LOL.

Shortly after this photo was taken, I stopped watering all of it, hard and soft neck alike. I waited about a week, didn't cut any flower stalks off, and harvested. I cut the flower stalks off after harvest and hung 'em all up by their stalks - don't cut any of those off as each stalk is a layer of that white papery skin that protects the cloves. Since it is so dry here, I am letting then "cure" for 2-3 weeks on the back porch where it is completely shaded.

Hope that helps and good luck!

Congrats on the success!

Not a complete success! I should have many more flowers than I have!
I'm only watering about once a week (no rain here except for a freak storm that dropped about 1/4 inch)
I'm wondering if I ought to REALLY flush them, like flood them a couple of time to flush out the excess fertilizer? Do you think that would help?
Considering my very long growing period, can I expect more tomatoes???? Please? =) Nancy
PS maybe I'll ask this over in the tomato forum, also.

We have fought back persistent perennial weeds for several years, and we gain substantial ground each year by staying after them. Tap-rooted burdock and dock are especially un-fun, but with persistence, you can gain the upper hand.

For weeds in walkways and other places away from cultivated plants, I use boiling water. Once canning season starts, all the used boiling water goes on walkway and driveway weeds.

Well, if you want to kill all plant life in the area, you can mow (if needed) till, then water and cover with black plastic. Most seeds under the black plastic will germinate, then die. I have done this and it works well. It takes maybe 2 weeks. Earthworms and bugs are not harmed at all, at least for me in my climate. I did this in spring, so it wasn't that hot.

Solarizing with clear plastic is something that people do on lawns, and I believe it works, but I have never tried it. (I kill all my lawns by forgetting to water them). But anyway, to solarize a lawn, you water like crazy, then cover with clear plastic in the middle of summer for several weeks. The heat kills plants and most pathogens, too, supposedly. I don't think it would hurt mobile organisms like bugs and earthworms (I assume they would go deep during the day, and come up at night).

In any case, the plastic needs to be close to the ground for this to work. It isn't going to work if you have shrubs sticking up everywhere.

Black plastic works by totally excluding light, and maintaining favorable conditions for germination underneath. Black plastic will eventually kill any plant that needs light to survive, but for healthy shrubs, this may take much too long to be practical. Oh, and the coverage must be fairly complete. If light leaks in, the process will take longer or not work. Also, I don't think black plastic it will stop rhizomes or ground-creeping vines from snaking through the area.

Clear plastic works by raising the soil temperature extremely high so that most living organisms die. The high moisture is needed to let the heat permeate as deep as possible. There may be heat-loving decomposer type organisms at work in solarization, too. I don't know. If so, the moisture may help keep them alive. I have seen reports that it works even on Bermuda grass, so I assume it can kill rhizomes and vines. Of course the bermuda may start to spread back in once the plastic is removed.

--McKenzie

Sorry to discourage you Deli. Like I said, let's see what others have to say. My way might be a bit of overkill.

It's not too bad... an hour or less for each treatment for your setup. After a few weeks, you'll be able to relax for hopefully a few ...:)

By the way(with my experience with PM and squashes/zucchini),. you can actually control it enough to get some harvests out your plants, especially zucchini.

Good luck.

Kevin

I had powdery mildew on my squash and zucchini plants....I bought a Garden Safe product at Lowe's called Fungicide 3 (basically neem oil) and it worked pretty well and this was AFTER my plants were infected. I recommended to a friend and it helped her plants a lot too.