23,948 Garden Web Discussions | Vegetable Gardening

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CaraRose

SVB! SVB! ALERT ALERT!

I'm pretty darn sure it's a squash vine borer moth. Check your plants.

    Bookmark     July 10, 2013 at 5:33PM
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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

You'll have to get a much closer photo of the bug itself to even begin to ID it. Could it be an SVB moth? Possibly. It could also be 150 other things. So rather than panic just look up a pic of the SVB and compare it.

Multiple pics - just C&P the URLS in the post double spaced one after another.

Dave

    Bookmark     July 10, 2013 at 5:44PM
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farmerdill

Morning Glory

    Bookmark     July 10, 2013 at 4:28PM
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farmerdill

Morning Glory

    Bookmark     July 10, 2013 at 4:30PM
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gardenlen(s/e qld aust)

lots of reasons why raised beds?

saves doing any tilling or digging so saves teh back, alos depending on height saves bending our latest beds make gardening so much easier.

good for moisture control, no weeds, and these new ones up out of teh reach of any creature that digs,

len

Here is a link that might be useful: lens bale garden

    Bookmark     July 10, 2013 at 4:15PM
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plot_39(9a/24)

I have a tiny yard of gravel over sand. Love my raised beds.

    Bookmark     July 10, 2013 at 4:28PM
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dog_wood_2010(7)

I recently discovered that bell peppers freeze really well.

    Bookmark     July 10, 2013 at 1:25PM
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gardenlen(s/e qld aust)

as new 'taters they will taste a treat steamed in their jackets, with ot without a dollop of butter.

if you want put them in the fridge and if they chit(bud) for next season plant them, planting size is no mater as spuds will grow fro peelings.

flowering has nothing to do with harvesting, that occurs when plants die off. we hardly see flowers, just 'taters.

len

Here is a link that might be useful: lens instant potato patch

    Bookmark     July 10, 2013 at 4:21PM
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Jessica Johannesen(6)

slime mold? well eww.

i have never had slime mold before.

    Bookmark     July 10, 2013 at 3:09PM
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MzTeaze(6a)

Maybe this will help. It, evidently, is not harmful to the plant at all. No fungicide is needed based on this article.

Here is a link that might be useful: MSU Newsletter on Slime Mold & Plants

    Bookmark     July 10, 2013 at 3:21PM
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elisa_z5

You can cut the outer, larger leaves, and the inner ones will grow bigger and you'll have another harvest in under a week.

OR, if the plants are growing very close together, then cut some down to the base (but don't cut the base off -- this will regrow) and the ones that are left will have more room to grow, thus increasing your harvest as well.

Correct -- don't pull them up.
No dumb questions!

Elisa

    Bookmark     July 10, 2013 at 2:48PM
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insteng

Yes if you skip a few days it is amazing what changes you see in your garden. Mine is at my ranch and I am only there on the weekends. I have to have a neighbor come by a couple times a week to pick the garden because it gets out of hand otherwise.

    Bookmark     July 10, 2013 at 10:59AM
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richdelmo

I'm going have to try the trip to Washington gardening method, sounds like a winner.

    Bookmark     July 10, 2013 at 2:41PM
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planatus(6)

When only one plant is affected like this, I suspect either physical injury to the roots by a tunneling critter or a virus. If you had herbicide drift it would not be just one plant. If you had a root disease you would see leaf discoloration. Viral infection is a possibility because the growth pattern has gone wonky. I have often seen viruses infect a few plants and leave others nearby unaffected. If it were mine I would compost it.

    Bookmark     July 10, 2013 at 11:40AM
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AiliDeSpain(6a - Utah)

Thank you everyone. I did consider curly top as it does look consistent with the symptoms of such, I also considered that maybe this one got planted over a gopher tunnel, which I have many of, although no active gopher residing in them since early spring when I trapped the one I had. I think I will pull it. sniffles. ;)

    Bookmark     July 10, 2013 at 11:58AM
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insteng

Once they mature you will have more than you can eat.

    Bookmark     July 10, 2013 at 10:47AM
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planatus(6)

Throughout tomato season I keep at least one broad bowl on the table for collecting ripening fruits. The little tomatoes I wash as soon as I bring in, so that if anyone wants to eat them, they are ready.

I dry the cherries and plums, so I often must save up for a few days to get a full deydrator batch. The important thing is to keep them at warm room temps and never chill them.

    Bookmark     July 10, 2013 at 11:35AM
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uscjusto

I'm not a pepper grower but I was thinking about it.
Are the peppers in the photos spaced out sufficiently?
Looks a little tight.

    Bookmark     July 10, 2013 at 10:52AM
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shermthewerm(8 PNW)

The peppers look nice & green, but a little small to be fruiting. One thing to keep in mind when you're planting is the watering needs for the vegetables, Cucumbers need a lot more water than peppers, so it's going to be tricky to keep the cukes well-watered without over-watering the peppers.

    Bookmark     July 10, 2013 at 11:34AM
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seysonn(8a WA/HZ 1)

Just try to get rid of the snails/slugs. The slimy substance is the "foot print " of the snails. If you are concerned, just wash it off with spray bottle filled with water.
But the main thing is to kill and/or keep the snails away.

    Bookmark     July 10, 2013 at 12:49AM
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sunnibel7 Md 7(7)

Iron phosphate pellets will work for the snails and are considered organic. They come in various brands like Sluggo, Escar-go, and the one I have is Slug Magic (which brings some amusing pictures to mind). The slime trail left behind isn't anything to worry about and actually was a very helpful clue to the nature of your pest. Cheers!

    Bookmark     July 10, 2013 at 11:28AM
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lonmower(zone8 Western Oregon)

I DID send a photo to Dixondale and got another email back from their President which I include below. (to me this is still a mystery)

Uneven irrigation of onion fields increases the incidence of this disorder.

Fields that are over-irrigated, allowed to dry completely and then over-irrigated

again often have many split bulbs. This condition is more prevalent in areas

of the field were stands are thin or uneven. These openings can provide an

entrance for secondary microorganisms, which cause bulb decay.

The Sterling variety is not particularly prone to this splitting of bulbs but the

other varieties may have been more evenly irrigated. We have had no other complaints.

Is there anything different about the soil or drainage in the area you planted the Sterling?

Bruce L Frasier

President

Dixondale Farms, Inc

    Bookmark     July 9, 2013 at 4:11PM
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sunnibel7 Md 7(7)

Well, it seems they are doing their best to help you understand. They have a good reputation, so probably the problem does lie somewhere in your planting area if not in the cultivar. Or maybe a better way to say it is if all other things are equal, maybe that cultivar isn't suited to your conditions. I understand the explanation just fine, it's the same thing that causes splitting in fruits like tomatoes and melons, splits in carrot roots, etc. Were these in a low spot in your garden maybe? You thought you were keeping them evenly watered but weren't? I still haven't seen an onion split from the roots before, but I'm willing to concede that my experience is limited to quite a few less onions than the folks at Dixondale. :)

    Bookmark     July 10, 2013 at 11:21AM
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laceyvail(6A, WV)

Bacterial wilt resistant cukes include County Fair (a great cuke) and Little Leaf--both bacterial wilt and downy mildew resistant.

    Bookmark     July 10, 2013 at 6:46AM
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ltilton

I've tried some of those last year. Bacterial wilt killed them.

Also, the cukes that claim resistance all seem to be pickling varieties.

    Bookmark     July 10, 2013 at 9:43AM
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fern1knits

Sounds like lack of pollination. You could try hand pollinating, or just wait to see if conditions get better for pollination. On my eggplant, I had several flowers bloom and then die, but I now have loads of fruit growing.

Info from the below website:

What to do for eggplant blossoms drying out due to a lack of pollination:

An eggplant flower is normally wind pollinated, meaning it does not rely on insects like bees and moths to pollinate it. A pollination problem can occur when the weather conditions are very wet or very humid or are very hot. When the air is very humid, this causes the pollen eggplant flower to become very sticky and it cannot fall down onto the pistil to pollinate the flower. When the weather is very hot, the pollen becomes inactive because the plant thinks that it cannot support the stress of an additional fruit along with the hot weather. In a sense, the plant aborts the blossom so as not to stress itself further.

Eggplant flower hand pollination:

If you suspect your eggplant flowers fall off due to a lack off pollination, then you can use hand pollination. Eggplant flower hand pollination is easy to do. All you need to do is take a small, clean paintbrush and move this around the inside of the eggplant flower.

http://www.gardeningknowhow.com/edible/vegetables/eggplant/what-to-do-for-eggplant-blossoms-drying-out-and-falling-off.htm

    Bookmark     July 10, 2013 at 9:18AM
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mandolls(4)

I am in Wi about an hour for the twin cities. My peas are doing really well. I planted them later than I should have and they are right now at their most productive phase. They are only getting about 5-6 hours of sun, which I think is helping them survive the warmer weather we are having now. I am growing Super Sugar Snaps, Oregon Sugar snaps and Mr. Big.

    Bookmark     July 10, 2013 at 7:14AM
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seysonn(8a WA/HZ 1)

It is time for beans. Generally. in most places that daily highs climb over 85F, peas will not do well, instead there is an opportunity for beans. ...got to go with the flow.

    Bookmark     July 10, 2013 at 7:38AM
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