24,795 Garden Web Discussions | Vegetable Gardening

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woohooman San Diego CA zone 10a

Sunnibel: All brassicas will store in the freezer after a blanch and shock but I don't do this to the leafy ones anymore... kale, collards, cabbages. They just end up being a big mushy piece of ice. So, I use those fresh. Best way to get around that is to start a few of each early on, and then start a few more about a month later. Broccoli and cauli, on the other hand, freezes rather well.

Btw, cauli is great in escabeche with carrots and hot peppers.

Kevin

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nancyjane_gardener(Zone 8ish North of San Francisco in the "real" wine country)

Well, if you still have some after playing broccoli fairy, you might want to make some broccoli soup and freeze flat in a freezer bag (I use a foodsaver). This is a freezer space saver I do with all my soups, stews, chili. Then I just pull out a slab-o-soup.Each slab-o is less than an inch, so they stack nicely in the freezer. Nancy

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pnbrown

Also store-bought starts if they were sitting too long in the pots can get kind of 'stuck'.

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donnabaskets(Zone 8a, Central MS)

Last year I was late getting my carrot seed in the ground. It was in October when I sowed. My carrots grew, but oh so slowly. It was December before I started harvesting them. This year, I sowed carrots the first week of September. It has made a huge difference. I am very close to harvest size now. Perhaps timing was your problem? (I was late getting the beets sown this year due to space availability. Guess what? They are growing very very slowly. I may just get beet greens this winter, which is actually okay. but, as you can see, timing can be everything this time of year.)

Brassicas (broccoli, etc.) are heavy feeders. Perhaps they could use a nitrogen boost? Also, take a look at the sunlight levels they are getting. The sun moves in the sky in the winter and plants that are in full sun in summer are sometimes getting more shade in the fall and winter. Broccoli likes full sun.

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arwen2

This may be a little off topic, but I have used peat moss as bedding for my horses. There have been studies done that demonstrate that peat moss is 90% more absorbent when it is wet or damp than when it is dry. It is very effective as bedding because it can absorb so much urine and is also odorless (there is no urine smell), so the wet peat moss doesn't have to be removed when cleaning the stalls.
I guess the point I am trying to make is that when properly wetted, peat moss can absorb rainfall and serve as a sort of reservoir during the dry spells. That is how and why I use it in my raised beds.

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seysonn(8a WA/HZ 1)

peat moss can absorb rainfall and serve as a sort of reservoir during the dry spells. That is how and why I use it in my raised beds.
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that is yet another drawback of peat moss, that keeps the soil soggy. You need good drainage. To cure that the commercial grower add a lot of perlite , compost and pine barks.

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seysonn(8a WA/HZ 1)

Nancy
The map was just a snapshot in the early morning hour. The date an time is on the map.

My point was is that winter is inevitable, by a wide spread of BLUE from the Atlantic to the Pacific. Exceptions are : parts of CA, FL, Southwest.

4' x 8' x 1 ft deep: Is that a container ? It sounds like a large raised bed to me.

This post was edited by seysonn on Sun, Nov 10, 13 at 4:07

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nancyjane_gardener(Zone 8ish North of San Francisco in the "real" wine country)

It is a box raised up off of the ground to save my aching back.
Whatever the neighbors put in it (they said really good soil) started my spring plants, then either burned them up or something was missing cause they all yellowed up and stopped producing! I kept them watered and gave them slow release fert like the container people said, but they insisted I had the wrong type of soil.
I couldn't afford all new soil for all 3 beds, so I mostly emptied one and filled it with the 1/2 truckload I had and all is well in that container now.
Anyway, yes, winter is on it's way. Supposed to get our first rain Tuesday. Nancy

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laceyvail(6A, WV)

I stuff as many carrots and beets as I can into the vegetable bin in the fridge. They keep for months in there.

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theforgottenone1013(MI zone 5b/6a)

Edit: I posted this message in the wrong place. Sorry. lol

This post was edited by theforgottenone1013 on Sat, Nov 9, 13 at 19:33

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elisa_z5

It shouldn't need any protection in your zone, except maybe from hungry deer (I've heard they're all over the D.C. suburbs). One easy thing to do is clip branches from one of the Christmas trees that get put out for recycling, and lay them over the spinach for a bit of protection as we go deeper into winter.

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seysonn(8a WA/HZ 1)

That was a good method, Elisa. Thank you. I did similarly with my tarragons.

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seysonn(8a WA/HZ 1)

Coleman does recommend a shallower box -- (I think it's 8 inches in the front, 12
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elisa .... mine is about 15" front and 30" the back.Probably I will burry it 2 to 3 inches.

I will have two shelves inside. The back shelf will be about 20"H and one in the middle about 10"H(sort of like wooden steps). Under the shelves will be used to store things like empty pots/trays and also put trays to germinate seeds. I like deeper box better. It has more air volume and the temperatures don't fluctuate as fast. Plus it can accommodate some taller seedlings as well.

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elisa_z5

I see -- I thought you were planting in the ground under the boxes. Sounds like your shelves bring everything up into the light, and the more air volume/more consistent temps makes a lot of sense. It's almost like a mini green house!

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Maxim1122

Thanks to everybody!
I finally fixed the raised bed, and I'm going to transplant it back tomorrow (going to do it with extra care)

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glib(5.5)

Here is your problem. You can not transplant squash. It has a tap root.

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rhizo_1 (North AL) zone 7

Yes, a cabbage looper. There are species of parasitic wasps specialize in those caterpillars and that's probably what's going on. Natural and beneficial control for the pests.

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Allen84

Those might be Tachinid fly larvae as well, they are also parasitoids.

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nc_crn

black rot, aka gummy stem blight...fungal disease

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seysonn(8a WA/HZ 1)

Some kind of fungus growth.
It happens to bottle gourds while curing but not with severely pronounced deep pattern like that. I will wash it with vinegar (use a brush) to kill the fungus, possibly.

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sunnibel7 Md 7(7)

Sounds like how our fall started over here in Maryland. Especially the part about wanting to calm the allergies and green things up. It did finally turn into quite a nice fall here, with some warm days, some cold days, some sunny days and some rainy days. The good thing about the weather is it is variable. It always changes eventually!

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nancyjane_gardener(Zone 8ish North of San Francisco in the "real" wine country)

Seyson, you're rain and drizzle all the time, aren't you?
I'm just north of SF in the wine country (Sonoma, NOT Napa!). Very Mediteranian.
But this year is even dryer and warmer than I've ever remembered!
I hope we aren't in for another drought! Nancy

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seysonn(8a WA/HZ 1)

Zackey .... those are called bulbil. You can the escapes after certain stage and keep them in water for a while. The bulbils will mature(like wild onion bulbils). Then you plant those and you'll get small single clove garlic. If you plant them again, then you will get normal garlic.

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theforgottenone1013(MI zone 5b/6a)

Garlic bulbils don't always produce rounds in the first year. I used to think this too because of everything I had read. Last fall I planted some bulbils and most of them that I planted made whole bulbs this summer but they were small. Below is a link showing the small bulbs.

sweetlydark- How big are the bulbs in the picture and do they have individual cloves or not? Where were they planted (inside or outside)? Were they in pots and if so, how big were the pots? How much light were they getting? I know it's a lot of questions but the more info you provide the better.

Rodney

Here is a link that might be useful: My Bulbil Experiment

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donnabaskets(Zone 8a, Central MS)

on the root ball. The more you can loosen the roots, the better. But ,of course, you should take care to not break anymore roots than you have to. Put them in really good soil and water in well. If you live in Zone 5, you probably ought to provide some protection from cold too, like floating row cover, cloches or a cold frame. I suspect the plants were marked down drastically because it's very late for them to go into the ground and make much to eat this year. As the weather gets colder, the plants almost stop growing, if they don't freeze to death. But I live in Zone 8, so I could certainly be wrong! Good luck. You have very little to lose, so it's cheap experience.

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elisa_z5

Thank you, donnabaskets!
I'm actually on the outer banks of North Carolina right now, helping a friend with a very small garden. It is SO fun to plant things in this zone (I think it's 8) that I know won't freeze, and may not even vernalize. Back home it's snowing!

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ameera(z11 Dubai)

Before I initially I posted this thread, I had done a google search for "camel manure fertilizer". I had read that it is very popular in Australia. But I just now did a google search for "camel manure fertilizer UAE" and got this info from a veterinary site here in UAE:

"Dogs that are walked on the central grassy reservations pick up lots of ticks. We believe this is because the lawns in Abu Dhabi are fertilized with camel manure that includes loads of ticks..."

So I am giving up on that plan! d

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daninthedirt(Cent TX; HZ10, Sunset z30, USDA z8a)

Hmm. Not too surprising about ticks. But of course if you're going to dig the manure in, not sure what difference it would make. For the lawns, I'm pretty sure it isn't dug in. I think ticks require blood feeding at each several-month stage of their life-cycle to survive. So I would think if you got some older, dried up patties, you might be good to go.

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ameera(z11 Dubai)

Wow that is a lot of damage. It looks like a plant couldn't survive that!

What kind of squash is it?

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CaraRose

It was a zucchini. I hadn't realized how bad it was till I went to cut it down after the frost.

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