24,795 Garden Web Discussions | Vegetable Gardening

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glib(5.5)

No, no, it will like fertility. Congratulations, I always failed in sand. But I am in clay now, and this is one of my favorite vegetables. Very health giving too, for me at least.

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sunnibel7 Md 7(7)

Hey Glib, I think you were the one who let me know they needed a lot of water to be right. Thanks!I like them a lot and so does my husband so we're both very glad to be able to enjoy some of those bountiful leaves. I believe, as members of the thistle family they are helpful to the liver. Seems to me they have a bit of an effect on the old blood sugar as well.

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ltilton

Pinching off with fingernails also works.

You don't have to thin all at once to the mature spacing. Baby onion sprouts and spinach are not only edible but a delicacy in salads, so you can thin gradually until your plants become full sized.

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seysonn(8a WA/HZ 1)

I would look at it this way:
What is the diameter of an onion ? 3 inches " then i will grasually thin them so they are about 3" apat.

What is rh e diameter of a carrot? ONE inch : Then thin them one inch apart.

I will let the spinach grow in clumps. Thou you can tin and eat them as thin them. Same goes for things like parsley, coriander, chive. Let them clumpup. That is ok.

SNIPE them with your finger nails. Or just pull after watering.

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glib(5.5)

The compounds that cause it are unknown. But why lectins? Wheat has more, but there are many fewer wheat allergy cases, though of course many more people are gluten intolerant.

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beeman_gardener(5)

'Stomping'......using your size 11s to firm the ground where you will plant the brassicas.
Seems they don't like a loose root area and will not grow firm heads or sprouts, prevents plants from falling over.
I do know, since I remembered this my brassicas have improved tremendously.
Give it a try, nothing to lose.

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cugal(5b-6a NE Ks)

Reviving this thread to do a follow up post........

Still no heads on my cauliflower (Snowball), but some of my broccoli (Pacman) is maturing........ Last fall & this spring's plantings produced main broccoli heads the size of golf balls & the cauliflower produced zip! Can't imagine what could be different.... Oh well, I'll take whatever mother nature gives!

Here's a head from this fall's Pacman.........

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theforgottenone1013(MI zone 5b/6a)

Well, it appears I'm going to have a cold winter. I saw two woolly bears today and both of them were about two-thirds black.

Rodney

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Deeby

Thanks, Elisa. Caterpillars on payroll???

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n2xjk

If you ate any of this corn, was it still sweet? If it was mostly starchy, perhaps what happened is this field of corn was too close to an incompatible type like popcorn or flint that pollinated at the same time. The sweetness genes are recessive and pollination with any unsweet type wipes out the sweet flavor. If it crossed with something like popcorn, might explain the strange kernels.

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lana_lang

I did taste it, and it was sweet, but the kernels were tough. It's so weird.... even the spaces underneath the kernels were shaped funny. Crazy stuff can happen in nature, I guess!

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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

Yes you can and many do according to the past discussions over on the Organic Gardening forum. The point often made is that the better the quality of the compost, the more diverse its ingredients, the higher the quality of the tea.

Dave

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seysonn(8a WA/HZ 1)

Make tea for what kind of plants? I would say it is ok for small seedlings.

If you read the ANALYSIS on the bag (if there is one), you will see that bagged composts are very pour on NPK. They are just good soil amenders. So, soaking them in water (further diluting) and giving it to plants is not going to accomplish much. If I wanted to do such a thing, I would use MANUREs that there is some juice to it.
JMO.

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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

In part it is normal for the older bottom leaves to die and fall off. But is usually with much older plants than these appear to be.

Over-watering/overly wet soil is the most common cause of yellowing such as in your picture.

Excess N may cause a similar condition when very high N fertilizers are used but your fertilizer is not high N. Plus with excess N the younger leaves would be very dark green - yours are not - and here would be green veins in the yellow leaves - yours are not.

Too little N would show up most in the new leaves as yellowing.

So consider it a possible over-water issue. Excess rain? How often are you watering?

Dave

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ka0ttic(CFL 9b)

They were staying kind of wet with the mulch on there and that's another reason I took the mulch off. I was worried about them staying too wet and not getting enough oxygen.

When the mulch was still there, I was watering maybe 2x a week. I took the mulch off about 2 weeks ago and the combination of that and us finally getting cooler/drier air here in central FL, I've been watering probably every other day when needed (if i stuck my finger in and felt dry).

Very possible they were staying too wet with the mulch but I've been careful not to overwater them since taking the mulch off.

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wally_1936(8b)

Growing in cool weather helps with the sweet taste over bitter.

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ccabal(7)

Could it be turnip greens? In my picture I have some mustard (right) growing next to the turnips. The mustard leaves are much smoother. But it could be the specific type of cultivar. Turnip greens are darker green, and rougher leaves.

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daisies4ever(9)

All very interesting ideas. The weather just turned very cold so time will tell now. If I ever catch the thief and solve the mystery, I'll post it here. Thanks for the input.

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zzackey(8b GA)

Can you put a trap out for the mice?

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sunnibel7 Md 7(7)

New growth emerges a paler green than the older leaves and becomes darker over time. It is normal. You run the risk of becoming the new gardener who kills with too much attention. :) The tomato plant looks very happy.

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saoodhashim

Lol....

I too feel that way. You guys on the GW forum have really taught me a lot. Thanks a lot for that.

Btw, I also learn as I ask too many questions. So part of the credit goes to me as well ;-)

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theforgottenone1013(MI zone 5b/6a)

If the seeds are germinating, then the problem can't be attributed to the seeds. Peppers take longer to germinate and they grow slower than most other vegetable seedlings but they don't take this long (once sprouted). The problems have to be environmental.

Lighting. If the CFL's you're using are the same that I have in my house, then I don't think they are strong enough/bright enough to grow decent seedlings. Just my opinion. And when growing under lights, you want the light as close as possible to the leaves without burning them. I use a 4-foot flourenscent shop light (it has two bulbs) to start seeds in Spring and the leaves can actually touch the bulbs and they won't burn (disclaimer: it's not good to let them touch it). Moving the bulbs away from the plants results in weak, leggy plants.

Growing media. What type of potting soil are you using? And what are the main ingredients in it? From the picture it looks heavy. And from another of your posts, the fact that it gets crusty on top seems like it has a lot of peat in it.

Pots. What size pots are you using? I seem to recall reading that you said they were in 4 inch pots. Anyway, a pot doesn't need to be that big when starting seeds. When a larger pot than required is watered, the potting soil stays wet longer than a smaller size pot. Especially is the plant doesn't have a good root system, which is what plants that have just sprouted don't have, because the plant can't utilize all that extra water quick enough. The fact that the pot stays wet longer is detrimental to a seedling roots because the roots won't grow well in wet soil (not moist, wet). And a plant without good roots won't grow well. The way around this is to use smaller pots, use a lighter potting soil, and/or use a pot that has a large surface area which allows excess water to evaporate quicker (flats, for example).

Rodney

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saoodhashim

Thanks Rodney for your reply. Seems to cover all aspects where I should be looking.

Btw, the same way (same CFL, same pot size, same medium) I got the tomato and the cucumber germinated and now they are outside in their own individual large containers. I believe the CFL should not hopefully be a problem. As for the pot size, since I think that cucumbers and tomato germinate fast and grow quickly the medium had not got very hard and compacted by then and therefore it did not hinder their growth. The pepper are a bit late to germinate and by that time the soil may have become a bit uneasy for them. So the pot size along with the medium could be a reason for this sluggish (or no) growth. I can get a flatter surface for germination, but my real problem is the seed starting mix. I cannot find any over here. The only thing available is potting soil - high in peat. How should I overcome this problem? I have perlite separately and fine sand along with the regular high peat based potting soil? Can I prepare one with what I have available? Will just fine sand be ok for germination?

Perhaps I may have even sown them a bit deep? How deep the seeds of pepper should be planted?

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farmerdill

If they are close, They will stand into the low twenties, so you you still have a fighting chance to get heads.

This close , maybe

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kimpa(z6b PA)

Thanks for your responses. Our average first frost date is October 15...We have had one night go down to 31 so far. At least the plants look good..Just like the picture you posted, farmerdill. I grew fall broccoli one year and it was the best I ever tasted. Finally tried it again and I thought it would be easy...!

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susanzone5(z5NY)

I wouldn't grow food in treated lumber, especially old lumber which may have been treated with arsenic compounds. It would leach poisons into your food. Stick to ornamentals or containers placed into the hayrack.

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seysonn(8a WA/HZ 1)

You've got the artistic idea. That is number one.

I would make a step to get on the wagon. Then have a 2ft walkway length wise in the center.Now you will have a "U" shaped garden on the wagon. That way you will have UP TO about 80 sqr-ft garden, if fully packed.
Then you pack both sides with rectangular containers, similar to plastic storage boxes. (of course you have to drill holes at the bottom)
This way you can dedicated them to differen things. Diffrent thing require different waterig an fertilizing need. This, IMO, is better than just filling the whole wagon as a single bed/container.

Of course, you will have to spend some extra money on those containers but it will worth it.

This post was edited by seysonn on Tue, Oct 29, 13 at 0:21

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seysonn(8a WA/HZ 1)

Ralph ... I think all tree roots and leaves/needles acidify soil, not just pine. I have used pine straw as mulch and never have had a problem. The advantage of pine straw it that it don't get wet and mushy, as opposed to leaves and wheat straw. Also, they make a good soil amendment, IF you don't have serious LOW pH problem.

Like you said, I also do think that a soil test is necessary at this point. Then if soil was acidic (pH less than 6. 6.8 being ideal) it can be corrected to some extent by adding lime, tilling it in and letting it work in during winter months.

But it is up to Kelby to decide what to do or not to do. To establish a garden one has to make some investment in time, efforts and money. I said INVESTMENT not EXPENSE. expense goes but investment has return.

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Ohiofem(6a Ohio)

Kelby: you've gotten a lot of good advice. I just want to add that using leaves for compost or adding to the garden will work much better if the leaves are shredded. You can use a lawn mower to do this as suggested. I have been using a leaf blower that has a reverse setting so it acts like a vacuum and shreds them while picking them up. This has been a wonderful experience. Huge amounts of leaves are turned into manageable amounts of ground cover with a small amount of effort. I got my leaf blower for $60 from a hardware store. If you don't shred the leaves, they can become a matted mess and take more than a year to breakdown in your garden.

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