23,948 Garden Web Discussions | Vegetable Gardening
It's possible for herbicide damage, I guess. I don't use any herbicides, but I live on a corner lot of a relatively busy street, so who knows what has come by on cars. The lot next to ours is an open field. I don't think they use herbicides but I can't be sure. I do not see similar damage on any of my other plants (12 other containers).
I'm hoping it is not viral :( It's probably too late to start another tomatillo plant and get much from it, and I had a difficult time finding the seedlings anyway.
I just recently started my garden in my atrium (located on the southeast corner of my home) here in Vegas about two months ago and my plants were doing fine. I have 2 Tomato plants, a habanero, 2 morning glories. the hab seemed to stop growing (which i read somewhere that it was normal), my tomatoes are healthy and thriving.
This past week has been (Chronicles of Riddick you step into the sun you burst into flames) hot, so the last two days I have noticed that leaves are turning crispy (still green not brown) and falling off. Today I watered in the am (5-6) and my hab was fine and happy, but I just checked them all the habs leaves are crispy and falling off.
The plant food I use is an up to two month Scotts blend and they have another month before i feed again. My plants receive 4-7 hour of direct sun
Any suggestions on how to keep my habs from dying I want it to produce at least one pepper before it dies.
This post was edited by Demannu on Wed, Jul 3, 13 at 19:45
I'll say it again... Mulch., mulch, mulch! 3-4 inches if need be. As mentioned above, evaporation is one thing, but you guys are struggling because of SOIL temps. Shade cloth, sheets, trees are all very helpful too for that afternoon heat. Try to rig something up when those afternoon temps hit 95 and up. When it cools off in the evening, pull the shade off. Make it a daily ritual, if you can. Otherwise, plant in containers that can go under partially shaded patio covers.
But, MULCH!
Good luck.
Kevin
Quintoga: In a Southern California tract home backyard, yes. Real estate is always at a premium here... even if it is just veggies. 1st time growing melons--- from what I've read, you don't want to let them dangle on a trellis. I make slings out of pantyhose.
pnbrown: lmao --- I have a flyswatter just for the loopers and spray BT almost year round.
Thanks for the props.
Kevin
Well I took Dave's advice and checked out the suggested links. I have always used chopped tree (mostly oak) leaves and grass clippings and after reading through the posts I am happy with my method and have no reason to change. Not to say other mulches don't work just nothing to convince me to change, thanks Dave.
There is also the sister product called Plant Tone. It is richer in nitrogen, and I tend to favor it over Tomato Tone. Why? Because many plants need more nitrogen...and SOME nitrogen can be lost through heavy rains...hello! Eastern and Midwest areas.
This post was edited by wayne_5 on Wed, Jul 3, 13 at 13:32
I do not know the answer to your question. My gut tells me it should be OK if you don't over-water. But I never use poison on gophers because my dog eats the gophers occasionally.
I use traps or plant in gopher-proof raised beds.
You have my sympathy. It is very hard to defend pumpkins against gophers. Sometimes they pop up under cover of the foliage and eat a little bit of the vine. Then everything downstream from that area dies! You can protect the pumpkins themselves by putting a little piece of scrap wood under each pumpkin.
Best of luck whatever you do!
--McKenzie
I've noticed my cucumber leaves really wilt and get floppy/soft in the heat and direct sun. They seem to perk back up when temps cool at night.
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They will get adapted in a few days. make sure they are watered more often than normal.
Yes they are, but as I posted before, rain and afternoon watering will cause melons to split. If Black Diamond don't grow to above 25 lbs, they won't ripen, and you've got a wasted melon. I've stopped growing it, because of that. There are better varieties to grow.
Don't know where you are, but a lot of the US has had flooding rains for most of the growing season. That will make them split.
I've grown Yellow Doll several times, and it's never done that, but I wouldn't be surprised if it did, with weather like this year.
This is a common question over on the Growing Tomatoes forum here but the answer is always the same. It is impossible to ID plants from a picture. Sorry.
If one is an indeterminate and one a determinate then you can measure the internode length to determine which is which.
Dave
The cherry tomatoes will usually have more flowers per truss than the "regular" tomatoes. The truss is a single group of flowers. That is the closest you can get to knowing. Just wait until they start growing, their sizes will be apparent in a few months.
It really depends on what you want from the saved seeds. If you're hoping to get the exact same varieties from the saved seed, you'll likely be disappointed (as radishes cross pollinate easily). However, if you don't mind getting a mix of fairly random hybrid radishes next season, then go ahead and save the seed. It could be a fun experiment/surprise. You won't know what you'll get until you pull it up, but no matter what, it'll be a radish! :)
Thanks Sromkie. I suppose you're right about that! Radish in- radish out! I'm going to pull all but one so I can put in some carrots or something. And actually, I think that the radishes (going to seed) are acting as a trap for the cabbage worms and protecting my cabbages too!
Excellent answer Dave.
Not my topic, but as I read through I realize I do everything you suggest in your answer except for mulch. I know, I have read it a hundred times in here, everyone says mulch, but until you said why I should mulch, it didn't really hit home.
What do you mulch with? I definitely have a splash back problem. And more so now that we have been getting hit with very hard rain this year. I think I may need to stop being stupid and mulch.
I agree with Dave, accept that some leaves will be nibbled by bugs and slugs but, for the most part, they won't make much if any difference in your harvest. I do plant tight and heavy though, to the point that once the greens, such as kale, chard, bok choy and lettuces begin to grow, you can not see the soil any longer. They produce their own grown cover, no need to mulch, no weeds and good water retention. They may not grow as large, though I don't see any difference, and you end up with more food per sq foot. I then regularly "pick" from each plants just enough for a meal OR take a whole plant out here and there, making more space for the others. My bok choy seems a favourite of the bugs this year (slugs?) many holes but I eat those leaves all the same, and still plenty left without holes as well, further up the plant. My bok choy has bolted now, will plant more soon, but have just found out the flowers and especially the flower buds taste even better then the leaves themselves, like broccoli, bonus!
I also do as lacyvail says, planting herbs and flowers that beneficial bugs are attracted to. Predators such as wasps, are a great help in the garden, attacking the veg eating pests. I keep dill and fennel out of the actual veg bed though, as they aren't always the best companions of veg.
The herb is Basil. There are no mulberries in the photo.
good ID florauk the mulberries were in the link i posted. They arent doing too good. but the herbs are doing 80 percent better since I watered it more. Jean was right it was dying of thirst.