23,948 Garden Web Discussions | Vegetable Gardening
There is also the sister product called Plant Tone. It is richer in nitrogen, and I tend to favor it over Tomato Tone. Why? Because many plants need more nitrogen...and SOME nitrogen can be lost through heavy rains...hello! Eastern and Midwest areas.
This post was edited by wayne_5 on Wed, Jul 3, 13 at 13:32
I do not know the answer to your question. My gut tells me it should be OK if you don't over-water. But I never use poison on gophers because my dog eats the gophers occasionally.
I use traps or plant in gopher-proof raised beds.
You have my sympathy. It is very hard to defend pumpkins against gophers. Sometimes they pop up under cover of the foliage and eat a little bit of the vine. Then everything downstream from that area dies! You can protect the pumpkins themselves by putting a little piece of scrap wood under each pumpkin.
Best of luck whatever you do!
--McKenzie
I've noticed my cucumber leaves really wilt and get floppy/soft in the heat and direct sun. They seem to perk back up when temps cool at night.
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They will get adapted in a few days. make sure they are watered more often than normal.
Yes they are, but as I posted before, rain and afternoon watering will cause melons to split. If Black Diamond don't grow to above 25 lbs, they won't ripen, and you've got a wasted melon. I've stopped growing it, because of that. There are better varieties to grow.
Don't know where you are, but a lot of the US has had flooding rains for most of the growing season. That will make them split.
I've grown Yellow Doll several times, and it's never done that, but I wouldn't be surprised if it did, with weather like this year.
This is a common question over on the Growing Tomatoes forum here but the answer is always the same. It is impossible to ID plants from a picture. Sorry.
If one is an indeterminate and one a determinate then you can measure the internode length to determine which is which.
Dave
The cherry tomatoes will usually have more flowers per truss than the "regular" tomatoes. The truss is a single group of flowers. That is the closest you can get to knowing. Just wait until they start growing, their sizes will be apparent in a few months.
It really depends on what you want from the saved seeds. If you're hoping to get the exact same varieties from the saved seed, you'll likely be disappointed (as radishes cross pollinate easily). However, if you don't mind getting a mix of fairly random hybrid radishes next season, then go ahead and save the seed. It could be a fun experiment/surprise. You won't know what you'll get until you pull it up, but no matter what, it'll be a radish! :)
Thanks Sromkie. I suppose you're right about that! Radish in- radish out! I'm going to pull all but one so I can put in some carrots or something. And actually, I think that the radishes (going to seed) are acting as a trap for the cabbage worms and protecting my cabbages too!
Excellent answer Dave.
Not my topic, but as I read through I realize I do everything you suggest in your answer except for mulch. I know, I have read it a hundred times in here, everyone says mulch, but until you said why I should mulch, it didn't really hit home.
What do you mulch with? I definitely have a splash back problem. And more so now that we have been getting hit with very hard rain this year. I think I may need to stop being stupid and mulch.
I agree with Dave, accept that some leaves will be nibbled by bugs and slugs but, for the most part, they won't make much if any difference in your harvest. I do plant tight and heavy though, to the point that once the greens, such as kale, chard, bok choy and lettuces begin to grow, you can not see the soil any longer. They produce their own grown cover, no need to mulch, no weeds and good water retention. They may not grow as large, though I don't see any difference, and you end up with more food per sq foot. I then regularly "pick" from each plants just enough for a meal OR take a whole plant out here and there, making more space for the others. My bok choy seems a favourite of the bugs this year (slugs?) many holes but I eat those leaves all the same, and still plenty left without holes as well, further up the plant. My bok choy has bolted now, will plant more soon, but have just found out the flowers and especially the flower buds taste even better then the leaves themselves, like broccoli, bonus!
I also do as lacyvail says, planting herbs and flowers that beneficial bugs are attracted to. Predators such as wasps, are a great help in the garden, attacking the veg eating pests. I keep dill and fennel out of the actual veg bed though, as they aren't always the best companions of veg.
Upside down planting is going against the nature of growing just about any thing. The name says it all :
Up side, down( and down side up)..It is like wearing your pants from the other end. You will have hard time to keep it on, AND you won't be able to walk..hehe
I didn't really have a lot of choice for places that are not in full sun 10-12 hours a day and ended up putting the container in an area that is shaded in the morning and early afternoon with direct sun in the late afternoon.
It's not ideal but after seeing what our recent 4 day heat wave did to my existing cucumbers, and seeing my experience poor wilted plants through almost all of last September, I think I need to try something different this year.
Well the fruits of a plant reflect the genes of that plant only, not of any other plant that happens to be pollinating with/around it. It's the seeds INSIDE of these fruits that *possibly* contain a cross-bred set of genes.
You'd have to specifically choose those seeds and grow them to be able to see the cross bred fruit. And that's IF the seeds you choose had a cross bred set of genes after pollinating. Mendel discovered this and a simple allele crossing chart (I forget the actual name of them) visual describes what I'm saying.
Here is a link that might be useful: 
I want to thank everyone again for the great input and advice. It is nice to see that people are still finding this post. Hubby and I have read through everyone's experiences, read around the web, and looked into different materials. We have also tried to figure out what is most important to us when it comes to the ability to take down and re-put up every year to enable easy tilling, also another issue for us is ease of mowing around. We have a yard that takes 2 hours to mow anyway and HATE to have to pull out a weed whacker so we were trying to come up with something to deal with that also.
I think we have a plan!!!
We are currently in the building processes right now. As a matter of fact I am taking a break to feed kids as I type this. I am taking detailed pics the whole way and we hope to have it complete (mostly anyway) by the end of the week, maybe two weeks as I am traveling. I will post as soon as we are done and hopefully ad to this for anyone else looking for advice in building a better fence for the future.
Thanks again for everyone's help. It was great! I am so excited about my new fence!
Hey everyone. I promised pics of the plan I came up with and we have finally finished. I started another thread and will link below, but wanted to say thank you to everyone for all your help and advice. I know it is now July and I am just officially finished with this so it wont be the garden of my dreams this year, but my fall garden will be spectacular and I am well on my way next year.
So thank you all again, you are greatly appreciated.
Here is a link that might be useful: New Fence
Thanks Dave!
The reason I ask is also because I bought some bags of it once and the dang stuff seemed to REPEL water. It was really annoying. Appreciate the links.
Angie
Well I took Dave's advice and checked out the suggested links. I have always used chopped tree (mostly oak) leaves and grass clippings and after reading through the posts I am happy with my method and have no reason to change. Not to say other mulches don't work just nothing to convince me to change, thanks Dave.