23,594 Garden Web Discussions | Vegetable Gardening
I blanch for 5 minutes at boiling point and then set the ears out to cool off. Once cool, they are put in a vacuum bag and the air is pulled out and the bag is sealed.
On cooking the ear, I bring the water up to boiling for another 5 minutes and then eat.
OK do this.... get a thin metal wire and poke it into the hole. you might impale it and kill the grub looking booger... given the small amount of frass it might not be that far inside. flexible wire that bends might be better. Also if you can get a syringe, mix up some BT solution . (natural caterpillar killing bacteria, common at gardening centers) and inject it into the hole. you can inject the rest of your main vine every few inches for good measure. That should do it.
This post was edited by ccabal on Fri, Jun 7, 13 at 22:37
I might add, looking at your picture it seems the stem is swelling up about an inch above where the red circle you drew is... I bet the borer is in there. so if you inject, make sure you do it above that. Or if you poke with the wire, make sure you poke upwards.
I am impressed this year with my tomato plants I started indoors under lights. I was really looking forward to trying a few new [to me] varieties and did not want to get my hopes up but most of them are doing very well. The Brandywines red and yellow gave up but the others are big and blooming. It was very encouraging to try more varieties next year. Bring on the canners.
kim
Figures this would be my first year to try proper gardening (instead of one or two potted veggies).
Tomatoes from transplants are okay, but I wouldn't say they're thriving. Squash: I planted four mounds and only got two plants to germinate on one of them. I replanted the others last weekend. Peppers from transplants are growing and seem to be fine. Of a row of bush beans only three came up, and those three were half eaten by something. These were also replanted last weekend. Cherry tomatoes are struggling to grow but are laden with tiny immature fruits. Lettuce is thriving (surprising since I planted it so late). Carrots are okay, but that was mainly my fault in sowing them too carelessly.
Looks like the next week is supposed to have some sun and warmth. I'm going to get some herbs going in pots and see if I can't get something to eat out of all this work.
My lawn is going bananas though. I can barely keep the grass low enough to see the clover. :)
You need to go out very early in the morning to pollinate by hand. Female flowers open around sunrise and then close up pretty early. Male flowers stay open longer. I grow my squash under floating row cover tents to keep SVBs off them. I grow only 3 vines at a time, so it takes 2 minutes to do the hand pollination, as long as I get out early enough.
Sproradic diseases triggered by bad weather are such a bummer. The UMASS reference would say to pull the plants and start over, but that it won't spread beyond the beet/spinach family. At least there is time to start over. I often have good luck with chard planted late and set out in early to midsummer.
Here is a link that might be useful: UMASS Cercospora
I think , your plants will reflect the state of soil in most cases. But when in doubt, a light dose of all purpose fertilizer , from time to time, cannot hurt but can help. I use liquid (14-14-14) and mixed it haf strength in watering can and feed most of my plants. For laeft veggies I just use Ammonium sulfate (21-0-0 ). Because I I want is foliage , no flowers, no fruits. My strategy is using about 1/3 strength but ever so often. Then from the state of my plants(growth rate, color, bloom...) I can pretty much tell what is going on.
If you are using Biotone, or some other organic fert, then you dont need to worry so much about over fertilizing (just the expense). Its the man-made chemical fert that can burn your plants if you use to much.
Biotone is a good suggestion for a new raised bed, since it will add to and promote the growth of good soil bacteria, which hasnt had time to establish itself.
Starting squash, cukes, melon inside does not have a big advantage. Because , they develop tap roots fast and are NOT transplant friendly. also the germinate fast and easy. Try this,: transplant your seedling and next hill to it plant seeds. In a month from now, probably there will be no difference in size between them.
Good for you for starting to garden! I'm not experienced compared to most here but I agree that you are a bit late getting your plants out. Get them hardened off and baby the peppers and tomatoes when you plant them. Fertilize them soon; they're hungry. I did the same thing last year (my first) and the peppers struggled along during summer but did better in fall. Get the basil in sun soon too and you may be pleasantly surprised at its growth in two weeks.
Read this forum a lot; there is so much valuable information from truly knowledgeable gardeners. I love seeing what's being planted in my state.
I had hard time growing my first artichoke. It did not give fruit/artichoke in the first year. It was planted in an area where it had full sun almost all day. Then I dug it up and moved it to a more shady part, and it grew way better. The long exposure to sun in Southern California seems bit too harsh for artichokes.
I would not use it. Because of the reasons you already mentioned and also I don't think it is deep and sturdy enough. You can buy 6" by 6ft(5/8" thick)cedar boards from HD or Lowes for about $1.50 a piece. With six of them ($10.00) and a few wood screws you can may a box : 6ft by 3ft one ft deep. You also need 2"x2" cedar for 4 corners.Cedar will last for years.
So the whole thing will cost under 12 bucks.
they have also 5 1/2" by 5ft by 9/16". which cost $1.36. with this one the boxe will be 5ft by 2 1/2ft by 11" deep.
ps: I have made 8 of them.