24,795 Garden Web Discussions | Vegetable Gardening

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glib(5.5)

I have gardened in CA and you have my sympathy re: gophers. I think you can use weed cloth if you know what you are doing. for asp, IMHO, wood chips are the best muclh, as they prevent weeds but they let spears through.

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nancyjane_gardener(Zone 8ish North of San Francisco in the "real" wine country)

Thanks glib, I wasn't thinking about the gus getting through the weed cloth! I don't have them in rows, so the weed cloth wouldn't work. Maybe I'll go with some newspaper (not too thick as to crust up, but thick enough to help against new weed seed) and some wood chips. Our main problem is that we are right next to horse fields with some nasty weeds that blow in during the winters! Once those get established it's hell to get them out! Nancy

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matmcintyre

Yes, by saying poison I should have said the "active" bait. The system I used is actually advance not advantage. The active ingredient for treatment is Diflubenzuron & considered a Toxic level 3 by the EPA. I would not want it in my edible garden, I also wouldn't use pressure treated would for raised bed edible garden. But that's just me. Hopefully with monitoring this will eventually drive the colony out & keep future infestations from happening. Here are 2 links for more info.

http://www.doityourselftermitecontrol.com/termitebaiting.htm

http://www.beyondpesticides.org/infoservices/pesticidefactsheets/toxic/diflubenzuron.php

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Rocio Martinez

Lost 11 trees to termites in the past 2 years and 5 more about to fall down. We need help!! Someone tell me how to get rid of termites, fire ants and carpenter Ants!!

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rhizo_1 (North AL) zone 7

It doesn't become rainfast. You apply it to the pest problems as a last resort, any insect that comes into contact with it may be affected. It will wash off in rain, but it also degrades in sunlight.

What is the name of the product you're using...perhaps it has added ingredients that make it last longer.

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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

When one doesn't first fully understand the use, methods, durability, how it kills and what it kills, its water resistance, its rate and frequency of application and all the other factors associated with the use of a pesticide should they be using them?

Just because a pesticide is labeled 'organic' does not mean it has no negative side effects or that its use can't be abused.

For starters: Pyrethrins Fact Sheet

Dave

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carriehelene(5 Upstate NY)

That's really something you don't want to get wrong. If it were me, I'd check the companies website and if nothing there, wait until tomorrow to call them.

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rhizo_1 (North AL) zone 7

PHI is the length of time after application that harvesting is PROHIBITED. If the label says 3 days, you may harvest on the fourth day.

I don't mean this in any way but kindly, mjacobbe, but I worry that if you are not educated in the meaning of some of the label terminology, that you might not be able to make sense of the entire label.

Is there anyway we can help you with interpretation? Labels can be very complicated documents and not having a full understanding of the contents in their entirety can be dangerous.

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rgreen48(7a)

Yeah, Romanescos are an extremely vigorous and rigid squash. I've broken them trying to manage their growth. Depending on how long the vines, they will branch and can produce on those branches. I can't say for certain yours will produce, but if they've branched, then it's possible. It may even toss out a branch at the nearest internode back from the break and continue on like nothing happened.

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Mahonia [Sunset Zone 15, USDA 8B]

Thanks, I'll give it some time & see what it does. We're really not ready for the zucchini harvest to be done with for the season.

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Lynn in Parkton, Maryland

The white tail deer have begun eating my kennebec potato leaves. This is the first time I have ever had non-sweet potatoes leaves eaten. They started with buds and are coming back every night until now the plants are only a foot tall. My question is, will I still get potatoes or will production stop when the leaves are gone? I'm in the Maryland and the plants were not mature.

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cindy_7

Spraying the potato plants with seaweed/fish emulsion will definitely deter the deer.

They do eat mine when nothing else appeals to them, but usually just the tops. We now have five bucks around.

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glib(5.5)

It is nice that so many people are now in favor of compost in place. Traditional composting is good for exercise, like going out in midwinter to turn a pile, and bad for nitrogen content. It is also negative for earthworms and fungal flora, which are deprived of the food they need, and which are the two best friends a gardener has.

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wayne_5 zone 6a Central Indiana

I do sheet composting I would say...adding rotted horse manure with a lot of hay in it...leaf mulch,...and the crop residues chopped up in situ.

I even till these things in and have added other texture improving material to my silty clay soil to improve friability [looseness and workability].

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jungleexplorer(7)

Great Idea! Thanks.

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booberry85(5)

The one on the left is a banana / Hungarian sweet pepper. Not sure of the one on right.

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lsst(7b)

Here is a pic of my twin crookneck squash. Both had their own flower which opened one day apart.

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ccabal(7)

Here is one of mine. I have another one on the plant growing which is a little bit more symmetrical.

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catherinet(5 IN)

Yeah, but they are food-grade. But mostly it's because I'm 65 with a lot of painful arthritis throughout my body and having them raised will allow me to continue gardening. I'm fortunate to be able to afford them, and they will keep my spirits up. I've been gardening for 40 years and I can't imagine not being able to.

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gumby_ct(CT it says Z5)

I understand. Gardening continues my therapy.

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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

Some variety of squash would be my guess. Maybe one of the buttercup varieties.

Dave

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Peter (6b SE NY)

Your plants look like they have some serious nutritional deficiencies to me IMO. Not sure which exactly offhand, maybe someone else will, but I suggest some balanced soluble fertilizer ASAP as a quick fix... work on that soil in the future.

Also watering every other day is probably too much water and can contribute to the problem.

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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

Cuke plant looks like it has a severe case of powdery mildew and maybe even spider mites - can't tell for sure about them from the pics. But given all the interveinal chlorosis they were nutrient deprived before the PM developed. That plant is likely not salvageable at this stage.

The yellowing on the tomato plants combined with their retarded development and the leaf roll indicates over-watering along with nutrient deprivation. Neither is of a size to begin bearing fruit.

So what, how much, and how often have you fed them?

Dave

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Jim's(6 East end of Long Island)

I just trimmed up three of my summer squash plants and they seem to be doing fine, plenty of new growth. If I am not mistaken, it actually looks like a spurt of new growth, actually.

Several of mine were so large that I just cut the leaf at the tip of the stem. I have read that they should be pruned back to the main trunk/branch, but I could not get in that far. I do not know if I did any damage to it by doing it that way, but after several days they all appear to be just fine.

For what it is worth, my zucchini plant covers an area that is at least a 6 x 6 square foot area on the ground, so you may have a lot more growth coming.

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naturegirl_2007 5B SW Michigan(5B SW Michigan)

If there is enough room, you can also gently push the leaves away from the non squash plants that need more room and hold the leaves in place with a few long sticks. I'm moving sticks around often to "steer" leaves into areas where they won't interfere with neighboring plants.

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theforgottenone1013(MI zone 5b/6a)

Ah, my estimate on the size was way off. :) And looking closer at the other stuff in the pic makes it a little more obvious. Still, I would harvest and replant for fall.

Rodney

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Peter (6b SE NY)

It got bigger!

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