23,948 Garden Web Discussions | Vegetable Gardening

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woohooman San Diego CA zone 10a

Like ltilton and edweather, if it looks good inside, it's getting eaten!

Kevin

    Bookmark     June 28, 2013 at 1:21PM
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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

Most (better than 8 out of 10) of those affected pepper on that link are not BER. victims.

Yeah I guess you could say that since 8 out of 10 of the pics aren't even of peppers.

But the pics that are of peppers was the point and they are pics of BER on peppers. Bacteria? Sure. That's how BER works - a damaged portion of the fruit is created by the mal-distribution of calcium in the fruit and bacteria invade the damaged area causing the discoloration and rot. That doesn't mean it isn't BER.

Just as all varieties of tomatoes are subject to BER given the right conditions, so are all varieties of peppers.

There is ample credible info available about BER. Unfortunately there is also a ton of highly INaccurate, anecdotal info about it available. One has to evaluate the credibility of the source of the info when it comes to understanding its symptoms, its causes, and its controls.

The only reason I say the BER or sunscalded fruit isn't salvageable is that many find the taste affected, off, bitter, etc. if it tastes fine to you by all means use it.

Dave

    Bookmark     June 28, 2013 at 1:30PM
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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

Is there something premade and nice looking that I can easily put up?

Yes there are many things but they are also quite expensive. Just browse all the fencing options on sites such as Home Depot and Lowes. It doesn't take much handyman experience to drive some stakes into the ground and zip tie some small-hole fencing or hardware cloth to it.

But instead I'd suggest you focus on the real purpose of a fence - function, keeping the garden varmints out - rather than appearance. Many times the most attractive fences are also the least effective.

Dave

    Bookmark     June 27, 2013 at 1:10PM
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AniaT

So what do most people use?

I was thinking maybe picket with hardwire cloth stapled to it?

I've been googling for days..LOL

How tall to keep rabbits out?

    Bookmark     June 28, 2013 at 12:02PM
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JWW_1(8B / 9A Foley, AL)

Yes, I was thinking of bedding under higher plants like tomatoes and under the shrubbery in the front yard landscaping.

The front yard landscaping may be ideal since the bed can have wood chips for mulch that also feeds the mushroom bed. It also would not be disturbed for annual planting.

One other spot would be under the fig tree after it gains some more height and spread.

I was hoping for someone on the forums to affirm and get me off to a good start with advice.

    Bookmark     June 28, 2013 at 8:45AM
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glib(5.5)

Yes, in my experience stropharia in the sun does not work. You may have tomatoes in there now, but next year the mulch will be in the sun and the fungus will suffer. So anywhere full shade, make your bed there. The northern side of the house is fine, I keep them under some arborvitae, which is hard on my back but good for them.

Two important things, the chips have to be fresh, from a live tree, which is not a conifer. Most chips from a tree company will, in fact, be from dead trees, which are already well inoculated with something else. I know a tree guy and he knows what I want. The other thing, start it well. Lots of moisture initially, perhaps a tarp on top to retain moisture. I now do only logs, and I always start them (summer or winter) in plastic bags in the basement, after soaking. They do get a bit moldy but the fungus takes 100% of the time. Once it is established, it is robust.

    Bookmark     June 28, 2013 at 10:12AM
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seysonn(8a WA/HZ 1)

rotated your pic.

everything looks fine.

This post was edited by seysonn on Fri, Jun 28, 13 at 11:02

    Bookmark     June 27, 2013 at 11:51PM
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shermthewerm(8 PNW)

Thanks for rotating the picture--much better! He's a keeper!

Keep the peas watered, they should be fine. I usually pull mine sometime in July, as they're pretty much done by then & I need the space to plant my fall garden.

    Bookmark     June 28, 2013 at 12:11AM
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seysonn(8a WA/HZ 1)

My opinion: don't assume, don't give up. Try NEEM oil spray.
Also try bacterial sprays. Without a lab analysis its just more of a guessing game.

This post was edited by seysonn on Thu, Jun 27, 13 at 20:50

    Bookmark     June 27, 2013 at 8:47PM
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nc_crn

That's looking a lot like downy mildew.

Look under leaves for signs of black/white moldy looking spots that may be present on some of the leaves.

Avoid overhead/spray irrigation in the future if you're doing that currently.

It's one of those things that you can't take care of easily once it's shown up...you have to be preventative and lower risk before it shows up.

    Bookmark     June 27, 2013 at 9:14PM
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thismembername

can you post a pic of your leaves ?

    Bookmark     June 27, 2013 at 6:42PM
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woohooman San Diego CA zone 10a

Get them out of the pots. Cucurbits don't like to be in small containers at all.

JMO

Kevin

    Bookmark     June 27, 2013 at 7:38PM
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JWW_1(8B / 9A Foley, AL)

I planted Fordhook or Jackson Wonder... can't remember now. I have the same thing happening. A few shot up vines about 24" long. I put in a string trellis along the edge of a 4x4 raised bed and have about three 36" vines on it now. I would not bother trellising or staking. Just turn the runners back over the plant mass and let it go.

    Bookmark     June 27, 2013 at 11:47AM
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ltilton

This is what I've got here. The little fencey thing is what I usually use to support my bush beans. It was already in place before these began their vining.

    Bookmark     June 27, 2013 at 4:58PM
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seysonn(8a WA/HZ 1)

If your concern is the lower leaves of squash family, potato, tomato, ...then those are normal. Plants abort theirs lower leaves, and even branches, when they are no longer functional or needed.

Judging from the squash picture, it looks pretty normal. But a light doze of top dressing with an ALL PURPOSE fertilizer can help with color and vigor.

    Bookmark     June 27, 2013 at 3:09PM
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fruitychick(8a)

Thanks everyone. I'll give it a few more days with the blood meal then try some Epsom salts. The bed has dried out a little as well after my son "helped" water. I'll follow up with an all purpose fertilizer next time.

    Bookmark     June 27, 2013 at 4:57PM
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sromkie(9)

When I grow eggplant, I start off staking it with a 2ft piece of bamboo just so that it has support, but as it grows, the plant gets sturdier, and I find it no longer needs the bamboo. I don't cage my eggplant, but some prefer that method to keep the plant somewhat contained and supported (eggplant can get pretty big as it grows).

You can find tomato cages and stakes at your local garden supply store. Just make sure (if you go the cage route) to not get one that's too narrow. In my experience, my eggplant likes to grow a bit wider than my tomato plants.

Your plants look awfully close together. Is that four eggplant in 2 or 3 sqft? As they get bigger, they'll probably get too crowded.

This post was edited by Sromkie on Thu, Jun 27, 13 at 13:55

    Bookmark     June 27, 2013 at 1:52PM
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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

Got to agree you are way over-crowded there. Something has got to go. I eggplant in 2 sq. feet max. As for the holes, not an issue. Leaves get holes from lots of things - even just from whipping in the wind.

Those 3 ring tomato cage things ae a waste of time and money for tomato plants but work good for eggplants but you don't have enough room there to use them.

Lots of good articles on the web on how to grow various vegetables. Just Google "how to grow________ (name of vegetable)".

Dave

Dave

Here is a link that might be useful: How to grow eggplant

    Bookmark     June 27, 2013 at 4:46PM
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cb-garden(6b heatzone 7 Perry county tn)

I can always use slings they are easy to.make. besides it all a learning experience. Thanks for wishing me good luck.

    Bookmark     June 27, 2013 at 4:04PM
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AiliDeSpain(6a - Utah)

Here's a photo of one of mine.

    Bookmark     June 27, 2013 at 4:15PM
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Michael

Those may be being sold more for potted plants where you would want to lean towards higher N to get foliar growth early on and use the lower N one for getting the foliar growth to ease up and the plants to develop and maintain flowers and/or fruit. It is likely the Higher N fertilizer will be more acidic than the other, haven't scrutinized the labels yet.

    Bookmark     June 27, 2013 at 2:55PM
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seysonn(8a WA/HZ 1)

It does not mater who made them or selling them, they are basically different.
5-3-3- is richer in N, for things like leafy greens, 46%N, 27%P, 27%K'(comparatively)
3-4-4 is the opposite. 27%N, 36.5%P, 36.5%K. This better for things that flower/root/fruit. I would use this one for tomatoes.

I think they manufacture each element(N, P, K) separately and then mix them at various ratios with inactive ingredients.

    Bookmark     June 27, 2013 at 2:58PM
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theforgottenone1013(MI zone 5b/6a)

If the flowers haven't opened up then the reason is probably related to the growing conditions. A squash flower won't get pollinated unless it opens (usually). Also, a female flower won't get pollinated without a male flower and if it doesn't get pollinated the plant aborts the fruit and the fruit shrivels (unless it's parthenocarpic, which means it doesn't need to get pollinated to set fruit).

If the plant is healthy the only thing I can suggest is to just wait for better weather and see if the problem corrects itself.

Rodney

    Bookmark     June 27, 2013 at 12:03PM
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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

Agree that if there have been no male flowers (some find only males and no females) then the plant is stressed and simply isn't ready to reproduce.

So there is no pollination problem since there is nothing there to pollinate them with. Usually they only open very early in the AM anyway - like just after dawn - so you may not see it.

As to why the plant is stressed, there can be many reasons. The rain is the most likely from the info you provide but nutrient levels and air temps and age of the plant also play a role.

I suggest you review the FAQs here on growing squash for more details.

Dave

    Bookmark     June 27, 2013 at 1:03PM
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fruitnut Z7 4500ft SW TX

If it is going to fill out it will just be a couple days later. Don't expect the second ear to fill out two weeks or a month later.

    Bookmark     June 27, 2013 at 12:31PM
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Newatthis22

Yuck. They look like the June bugs around here! Maybe I've been seeing something other than June bugs and not realizing it.

    Bookmark     June 27, 2013 at 12:50AM
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sunnibel7 Md 7(7)

Asiatic Garden Beetle. I have problems with them every year. They do look sort of like junebugs but are the size of japanese beetles. I don't know of any good control other than row covers. In daytime search around the base of the plants that are chewed and you will find them in the dirt and can add to your soapy water collection there. My basil lives under a structure from the moment it is transplanted because of those guys. Other crops they get into are chard, beans (especially cowpeas and long beans), and sweet potatoes. Basil seems to be the most attractive to them. Good luck!

    Bookmark     June 27, 2013 at 9:58AM
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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

It is just doing what comes naturally. next time use a bush variety.

I would chop all the growth tips. Save a couple and let them run out into the yard.

Just depends on how many squash you want off it.

Dave

    Bookmark     June 26, 2013 at 9:39PM
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ejdiv(6)

about 15 in progress atm.

thanks melike and dave... yeah, clearly I didn't realize how this thing grew.. I was anticipating a bush type thing like my other summer squash... live and learn.

    Bookmark     June 27, 2013 at 9:15AM
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