23,948 Garden Web Discussions | Vegetable Gardening
If the flowers haven't opened up then the reason is probably related to the growing conditions. A squash flower won't get pollinated unless it opens (usually). Also, a female flower won't get pollinated without a male flower and if it doesn't get pollinated the plant aborts the fruit and the fruit shrivels (unless it's parthenocarpic, which means it doesn't need to get pollinated to set fruit).
If the plant is healthy the only thing I can suggest is to just wait for better weather and see if the problem corrects itself.
Rodney
Agree that if there have been no male flowers (some find only males and no females) then the plant is stressed and simply isn't ready to reproduce.
So there is no pollination problem since there is nothing there to pollinate them with. Usually they only open very early in the AM anyway - like just after dawn - so you may not see it.
As to why the plant is stressed, there can be many reasons. The rain is the most likely from the info you provide but nutrient levels and air temps and age of the plant also play a role.
I suggest you review the FAQs here on growing squash for more details.
Dave
Asiatic Garden Beetle. I have problems with them every year. They do look sort of like junebugs but are the size of japanese beetles. I don't know of any good control other than row covers. In daytime search around the base of the plants that are chewed and you will find them in the dirt and can add to your soapy water collection there. My basil lives under a structure from the moment it is transplanted because of those guys. Other crops they get into are chard, beans (especially cowpeas and long beans), and sweet potatoes. Basil seems to be the most attractive to them. Good luck!
Another cover crop is FENUGREEK. It is edible with many benefits, its root is a nitrogen fixer and its gree will be also rich in nitrogen. You can buy the seeds real cheap from Indo-Pakistani grocery store, by the pound, half a pound ..
You can plant it as a companion plant too.
I use buckwheat as a short-term summer cover all the time. In late July, it doubles as a nurse crop, because I pull out square-foot holes and plant fall seedlings amidst the shelter of the buckwheat. Buckwheat plants pull out really easy, so instead of turning them under I gather them and compost them.
A big problem with 3 sisters is the corn we grow today is nothing like the corn we grew a couple hundred years ago.
There's not many varieties of 8-12+ ft. corn out there...which was a lot more common back during the "supposed" popularity of 3-sisters type gardening. Many modern varieties top out at 5-6 ft....which many vine type beans can more than out-grow.
There's also fertilization issues in play (corn needs a lot of N, beans suffer pod set issues with excessive N).
It's one of those things that generally works better on paper than IRL, but it's not like it's impossible.
I ordered some seed from baker creek it is an Indian field corn variety I cannot remember the name of right now, I am not concerned if the corn works or not, and for that matter the beans I wanted to plant a small pumpkin patch and thought that planting corn interspersed would help with a little shade break midday, but saw the three sisters thing and it seemed like a plan I ordered rattlesnake beans if they work they work if not no big deal, just an experiment. I was going to border the North side and West side with sunflowers it is in the Northwest corner of my backyard and is walled off with a brick wall anyway it gets full sun from 7am until 6-6:30 pm the planting area is 16' by 16' and I wanted the pumpkins to grow out all over the yard.
That watermelon does looks a bit scrawny. It wouldn't be worth the effort to transplant it. Cucurbits don't like their roots to be disturbed. You can replant new seeds in a different spot of your garden if you are willing to try. However, watermelon plants get huge, much bigger than cucumbers. So if you are having trouble controlling your cukes you are going to have a devil of a time controlling the watermelons. (I saw your other post). As for growing vertical, watermelons are best left to sprawl along the ground.
Rodney
Ok.. so they're pretty well established. They can be transplanted but you want to go wide and deep with your shovel. Try to pull out the plant, dirt and all and lower it gently into the new hole, then break up soil around root ball, fill in soil, water deeply so plant and soil settle and then come back and level off with more soil. The main thing is the taproot -- if you can keep that intact, you should be fine.
By doing this, you're going to set it back quite some time. But peppers are very resilent -- as long as you have a decent warm season, you should still get a decent harvest.
it might just be easier(as others have mentioned) to trellis the cukes though, but still try to water the peppers less because of what I mentioned in first post.
Cages for peppers? They're perfect! They're cheap, reusable, easier than staking, and there's nothing worse than going out to the garden and finding a broken branch of immature peppers on the ground because the weight of the fruit was too much for the strength of the branch.
Good luck.
Kevin
That looks like wilt to me. generally starts at the bottom and works its way up the plant. I would give it a heavy dose of fungicide and you might be able to stop it. I've had wilt strip almost all my leaves off but the plant survived. I'm not sure if you could plant another plant in the same spot. Here's a Pink Russian with all the bottom leaves gone, but the plant survived.
Hi, This could also be a magnesium deficiency which is evident by yellowing of the leaves in cucumbers and tomatoes. This can be fixed by mixing two tablespoons of epsom salt to one gallon of water and give your plants a drink. You can also use it as a foliage spray. You can pick up a box of Epsom salt at the supermarket for about $2.00 per box and it should last all season. I hope this helps. Good luck :)
Very much so. Triple digits is normal for June. I don't use nitrogen on peas. so vines are small but productive. I do not grow varieties that I have to trellis. Too much work for me. On the other hands the vines get about the height advertised. Alaska is normally a 2 1/2 - 3 ft pea. Our winters occasional dip into the teens but middle 20's is the norm. Peas planted in late fall handle freezing temps as long as the ground does not freeze in the root zone. Re reading your description, I don't think you have Alaska. It has very small pods and small peas. Never had a pea grow over six ft mostly snap peas, although Tall Telephone will also. Never got any production from Tall Telephone tho. Freezonian, I grew years ago, very productive but got 4 ft tall. I planted double rows and strung a fence between the rows. I was younger and more energetic then.
I grow sugar snap peas because they seem to like this climate (central NC), are highly productive and very tasty, but they get very tall. Like 8 feet tall. Mine always end up falling over on the top because I don't have any trellises or bamboo rods that are high enough for them. I've never had a lot of luck with English peas - the productivity just isn't that great. I'd need to plant tons and tons of plants to have enough so that it's worthwhile.
It is both temperatures and day length. My Bok Choys bolted weeks ago and our night temps were in 40s and days in low 60s then. So there was no temperature issue.
I prefer chards over spinach because of two reasons: one, easy to grow ;;two , there is more texture to it. Now I have discovered a third reason, they don not bolt as easily.
thanks for the replies... Sadly, I don't have any shade at the moment... The peas are booming up their trellis, but it is not in a place that provides much shade in the bed... At any rate, the forecast is calling for excessive heat (for here) in a couple of days and I suspect the rest of my spinach and lettuce is going to be a goner... At least the tomatoes and eggplant and beans will pick up, though.
Rich_manure: I know!!! I thought I really figured it out with the tulle netting. However, I think I had it too tight against the leaves. If I had it to do over again, I would get a larger piece (I think you can get it 108" wide) and float it higher using poles or sticks to keep it above the leaves. This was my setup about a month ago:
I just skewered one!
This year I am growing Romanesco Zucchini which is supposed to be more resistant. The stems seem to be a bit thicker skinned. Still this one got through. It's not on the main branch and if I lose that one part, I will be ok. I am going to try the injectable BT since I'm also growing Butternut Squash and I don't want those to get ruined.
Those may be being sold more for potted plants where you would want to lean towards higher N to get foliar growth early on and use the lower N one for getting the foliar growth to ease up and the plants to develop and maintain flowers and/or fruit. It is likely the Higher N fertilizer will be more acidic than the other, haven't scrutinized the labels yet.
It does not mater who made them or selling them, they are basically different.
5-3-3- is richer in N, for things like leafy greens, 46%N, 27%P, 27%K'(comparatively)
3-4-4 is the opposite. 27%N, 36.5%P, 36.5%K. This better for things that flower/root/fruit. I would use this one for tomatoes.
I think they manufacture each element(N, P, K) separately and then mix them at various ratios with inactive ingredients.