23,594 Garden Web Discussions | Vegetable Gardening
If you will go over to the Growing Tomatoes forum here and put AZ Arizona in the search bar there several discussions will come up from the AZ tomato growers there that will be of interest to you.
The same (and even more info on them) is also available on the Arizona Gardening forum here.
But from all my reading of their posts I 'think' March will be considered a late planting date. Not so much because the plants won't survive - they will if kept well watered - but because they won't set fruit (Blossom Drop) because of the air temps.
Of course this varies depending on exactly where you are in AZ but the AZ forum has folks from all over the state. Eg. planting times differ for the Flagstaff area from the Phoenix area where fall gardening seems to work best.
Unfortunately peppers also suffer from Blossom Drop (see FAQ here on it) but not quite as badly as tomatoes do. Sweet Potatoes, given good loose soil and tons of water and nutrients should do fine IMO.
Hope this helps.
Dave
Here is a link that might be useful: AZ Gardening forum
I watched the news tonight and worried for you all. Although my weather is not often as violent as yours, we do have violent thunderstorms and have had tornadoes within a few miles of my home. I usually have at least one hail storm and often have strong enough winds to knock down trellises and tomato cages at least once or twice each summer. Most of my plants survive, though some are set back and most wouldn't win any beauty contests after the storms. I garden because I love nature, not because I can control it.
We're at the northern end of tornado alley, so we get our fair share of them. We've got so much open space here, though, that the odds of them touching down in a heavily populated area are much more slim; they don't often hit the news outside of the province. Last summer, my in-laws were hit by a plough wind that lifted their large cattle barn roof right off the structure and flung it across the yard (news crew came and their clip made it to the national news that evening). Our own communication tower twisted and fell, just missing our house. The winds that night were nearly 100 km/h, if I recall. Lots of twisted grain bins in the ditches all over the area. When you're monitoring the live feed for Greg Johnson's storm chaser truck and he's headed pretty much for your property, though, it does rattle your nerves!
We lost about half of our broccoli last summer with the storms, a little over 20 heads. The main stalks snapped right off, so there was no opportunity to recover. The rest were bent flat against the ground for a few days, but they eventually righted themselves and still produced, albeit moderately. Anything with a large leaf was hit hard by wind and hail - mainly squash/pumpkins, rhubarb and the beans. The pole beans were shredded the worst, but surprisingly recovered and managed to produce eventually. We thankfully had the pole structures braced really well. The tomatoes weathered things much better than I thought they would, as did the peppers. A lot of veggies that were flattened - literally into the mud - I thought I'd lost, then they would gradually right themselves. They're tougher than you think!
I never grew Bodacious before...,
I planted my Sugar Dots Corn in Mid March directly in-ground, and some started to show tassels while they were about 30" or so. I thought that the tassels were coming out too soon, but they look alright now. At present, they are about 6' tall and tassels are all opened up, and many have corn ears with silk flowing out of them. They all look pretty normal.
Bodacious is a second early that grows a normal size plant and ears. Starting to tassel at 30 inches is normal. The plant should top out at 5 -6 feet. It normally sets ears at 15-20 inches above ground level. But much of this depends on weather conditions and fertilization. This is Illusion which has similar habits.
No. If anything it can slow fruit set and development as it encourages leafy growth instead.
But basically the DTM is genetically determined. When a short growing season is the issue then you need to use varieties with the shortest DTM.
Dave
I just discovered this site about two weeks ago. I have been impressed by the manner in which most people share information in here. My job can be nothing but conflict all day long, I come in here and I have not found that on here. My onlly problem is this, I am a newbie to gardening and am trying to start out slow and easy. You all have so much good info, makes it hard for not to get carried away but I will stay the course and take it slow and easy. Glad I found you all.
Well there are deer repellents sold but they get mixed reviews on effectiveness. Many discussions here about them. They may work on the chipmunks depending on which you get as some are combo deer/rabbit/squirrel.
But of course the most effective is the fence - for all of them. No comparison on effectiveness when it comes to fencing vs. anything else. Don't know about the cranes tho.
Can't imagine that you could grow melons and squash there without using fencing. IME most any of the varmint pests will go for those two things faster than you can say tiddly-winks if they can get to them.
Good luck!
Dave
Hi Joe. I'm up in Saskatchewan where both our ground water and our soil is highly alkaline (we actually see alkaline flats here and there). We also have off-the-chart potassium levels. People farm and raise wonderful, productive gardens here in the native soil all the time. Production and health improves when the pH is lowered to a more neutral position, but it's not necessary (I don't know anyone else locally who does it besides ourselves) for basic growth, which is the issue with your plants. The advice on adding nitrogen is spot on. It sounds like you need to keep up with adding organic matter there, too, though.
Not really adding anything to the conversation other than the reassurance that you can still grow a great garden with high pH and potassium levels. :)
What is BT that you recommend?
Just type BT into the search bar here for all sorts of info about what it is and how it is used. Or see article below.
Dave
Here is a link that might be useful: What is BT
shuttering: What Dave said.
Also, I'm no pest expert, but with the looper and moth, I consider them to be pretty much the same... their children do damage!
I think(emphasize think) the reason why they're called cabbage moths and loopers is because they're particularly attracted to brassicas(cabbage family). But they'll attack other veggies also-- peppers, maters, etc.
I know I'm not supposed to do this because you're supposed to identify pest FIRST, and then TREAT. But I use BT almost year round(almost as a presventative). But, in my climate and my year round gardening, there's almost always cabbage loopers flying around. Between my peppers and tomatoes in the warm months and my Brassicas in the cooler months, I use quite a bit of the stuff. Not surprisingly, I've seen a helluva lot less of the moths flying around this year.
I wouldn't do this with ANY pesticide -- just BT. the reason being that it's a very "target" specific pesticide(caterpillars only). Killing the beneficial insects isn't a concern with the stuff.
Kevin
The CRW sold at HD is very sturdy too. But it is just 40" tall. So if you want them taller, have to turn them around, placing the 40" on the ground and cut any height you want, 5" , 6" ..whatever. they come both in a panel 40" by 84"(=7') and a big roll.
As with cattle panels for trellis, those CRW also need to be installed on T-posts or REbars.
Extended cab pickup - short bed with a toolbox. And wheel wells. I'd have to see how wide it really is, but I'd say 4-5ft. Do they bend that much? And I'd be a little afraid to drive down with road with peak of arch(es) higher than the cab. Bungies won't hold spring-loaded panels if something moves.
Now, a battery-operated sawzall - that's an idea. I don't know if a hacksaw would work (slow). What gauge wire are they made of? I really have to get some up for my dad -he's ready to plant tomatoes and I can't stand seeing them sprawl. He also thinks he can plant peas now (I think it's too late, he can try for a fall crop but usually we just put in a spring crop in April).
Of course he planted his bush cukes and squash on the north side of the garden right next to neighbor's hedge, with 2 rows of corn to the south of them and then tomatoes are going to the south of those. So I don't know if maybe it's best to let tomatoes sprawl so everything north of them will get some light (at least the corn). Peas and beans are going in a different bed with some afternoon shade.
Yup, can them at the stage you want them to be. Cold pack them in a strong white vinegar brine and process just enough to make them safe, since it's low acid. Could probably even do it as a refrigerator pickle.
I plant dill twice so I'll have it all season, but don't put in the second sowing until early August. If you have spring volunteers they should do for summer pickling. I like to use the midseason seed heads in a green condition, think they deliver the better flavor that the first bloom.