23,948 Garden Web Discussions | Vegetable Gardening
Ah, that makes sense. Hopefully the rain will leave us alone for a while.
I'd never considered eating radish greens, somehow the texture seems off-putting. But, I'm willing to try anything. Googling it, it seems they are used a lot in Indan cooking, which I love. Silver lining!
You may be surprised at how good radish greens are. I especially like them as an ingredient in soups such as Portuguese kale soup. They are tastier than many other greens. Cooked, texture is a non-issue. I have even found their texture to be fine raw in a salad of mixed greens.
Jim
This post was edited by jimster on Wed, Jun 26, 13 at 14:01
Chances are it's the rain situation here in the northeast. I'm on the island, and I've only hand watered my garden once in the last several weeks and I still had a yellow leaf, drop off issue with my peppers especially. All have rebound to normalcy, but we're do for a few more days involving rain for the rest of the week. Let your beds dry out, if you can, for a while and see the response. Under watering is many times less harmful than too much moisture. And when you do water, try to just water the soil, not the plants themselves.
AAAAAAAAAnd, a picture is always the best way to transmit your gardening issues to the forum.
Best of luck and be well..................elliot
Thank you for the quick and thorough response!! Do you think it would be worth the trouble of getting a different mix, and transplanting these plants, or should I just leave them be for this season, and water less often, and use something different next year? They seem to be growing well, and I just noticed small buds on them yesterday.
Stunting is a symptom of black walnut poisoning. First off, is this a black walnut? If it is an english walnut, it can not be the culprit. The leaves are very different, english having the same leaf as a hickory, large and smooth-edged, black having smaller, serrated leaves.
Assuming it is, what happened is that the tree sensed the good compost in those beds and eventually sent a root there. Every tree does that. It was not there in years past, but it is now. Dig a trench on the bed side facing the tree, find the root, and cut it. The roots are also black on the outside, and they should be fairly superficial. In fact, the farther back from the bed you can cut the root, the fewer these interventions over the years.
It will take some time for the juglone to dissipate. Unfinished compost, buried in the bed, will speed things up (not the sterile finished, the smelly, fermenting one, all crawling with worms). You can plant carrots, beets or chard, they will make it, and give you a crop in the Fall. Even they will not grow as much as they could, juglone is a nasty compound.
I would practically plant any thing that that does not require the fruits to fully ripen.
Another issue is that , zone numbers have very little significance when it comes to summer gardening. More important than zone number, is the temperature pattern and the average first frost date.
Therefore, for example, you can plant summer squash, cukes (no melons , no winter squash, no eggplants..), basils, small fruited peppers.
Thanks For Everybody's Help
I Googled "cabbage root maggot" and I got this Wikipedia page:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Delia_radicum
This is exactly what is affecting the plants.
I buried the stems roots with more soil.
it will all break down and be good nutrient, so long as vege's are washed and cooked for first season all other is pure fear hype, why waste money paying lawyers? never makes sense.
these 'taters are on our septic field:
len
Thanks to everyone for their comments and opinions. I did spray the leaves this morning and checked the undersides of the plants. I did not see anything more concerning than what was on the top. I did however see this little guy on one of my pepper plants :)
Once PM develops it remains active as long as the conditions (humidity and air temps) for its growth persist. When those conditions change it begins to slow and appears to die off but the fungus remains dormant on the plant. So it is still there even if you can't see it and eventually it will kill the plant. In the meantime you can harvest from it.
Fungicides only slow it, control it somewhat, they do not cure it. It can be prevented by spraying with fungicides before the fungus attaches to the leaves (so from the day of plant out or seedling emergence), but it can't be cured once it develops.
Leaf removal is no problem as it doesn't stress the plant anymore than it already is stressed by the PM.
Dave