23,821 Garden Web Discussions | Vegetable Gardening

Thank you Dave. The leaves are kind of sparse right now because of the looper attack so I know we don't have a hidden giant. I guess it may have run its course although its only been producing fruit for about a month. Is that normal?
If we scrap it, when is it a good time to plant another one?
Thank you so much!

Well without seeing a picture I'm not convinced that what you had was cabbage loopers rather than some of the more common cuke pests. Possible but on cukes that would be very very unusual. Far more common is pickle worms.
But be that as it may, the lack of leaves would explain why the plant has shut down. Not enough leaves for photosynthesis. No photosyn = no energy for production..
As to when to replant in your zone I can't help with that as planting times in your zone would be very different from mine. The zone 9 planting guide I pulled up says end of Feb. to end of April only for planting cukes.
Even in my zone cukes won't survive during the summer heat. Once the air temps reach the 90's the pollen becomes non-viable. They are primarily a spring vegetable.
Dave


Agree it is a chafer. While they can damage lawns in the grub stage if the infestation is severe they are garden neutrals for the most part. Not something to worry about.
Lots of bugs in a garden and 95% of them are beneficials or neutrals.
Dave

Second Dave's Chafer...some are naughty like the Rose Chafer (yellow scales) but most adults don't feed like the Northern Masked Chafer which would be in Zone 8a or there about...
Isn't it odd that there are creatures that don't feed as adults - assuming their primary purpose is just to procreate.


A bee covered in pollen...
Hope it doesn't have allergies (ha, ha).
Possibly a Cuckoo Bee
Here is a link that might be useful: Cuckoo bees


Organic does not necessarily mean harmless. Almost anything can be toxic if applied in high enough doses - even water. Even though you followed directions, the fertilizer may have been too intense if it was indirect contact with the stem. Then again, it could be a coincidence. We gardeners are always learning.

Sorry about your tomatoes. I did something similar to what you did but had the opposite outcome.
I put down Espoma Tomato-Tone about 10 days ago and never watered it in because I had a hunch we were in for an extended rainy period (which we are still currently in) in NJ.
My tomatoes have gone bananas since then. All I did was measure three tablespoons and applied it in a circular fashion around the stem no less than 3 inches from the stem. See pics below from another thread.
The shorter plants are those that I started from seed three weeks after the first set of plants but they are all healthy and happy it seems. I'm no expert but if it worked for me....maybe give Tomato-Tone a try next time??
Here is a link that might be useful: my tomatoes

What if determinate leaves are angled downwards and touching the soil?
What if some branches are too thick to just pinch off? Should I use something to cut them? and how far from the stem?
In 11 years I have never grown tomatoes that outgrew cages of the size that you see in the pics right now. Looks like that's about to change. I guess that the Promix I used in combination with my new GeoPots is proving to be a winner. This is the first time I am using either of the two. Maybe I'll just stick longer bamboo sticks in the center of the containers and support the stems as they continue to grow. Or should I stack a 2nd cage on top of the first?
Since I have two of each tomato plant, I'll probably want one to grow larger tomatoes, and one to grow more tomatoes. How does the pruning technique determine this?
I'll toss the arugula in my compost bin. I started it from seed when it was still quite cool in early May. Maybe next year I'll start it indoors?

In 11 years I have never grown tomatoes that outgrew cages of the size that you see in the pics right now. Looks like that's about to change. I guess that the Promix I used in combination with my new GeoPots is proving to be a winner. This is the first time I am using either of the two. Maybe I'll just stick longer bamboo sticks in the center of the containers and support the stems as they continue to grow. Or should I stack a 2nd cage on top of the first?
I would just stack two cages on top of each other. I've grown tomatoes down here before that were over 8' tall. So having them out grow the cages are common. I use 4' cages now and just let them droop back down over the top.

tomncath, JFYI, If you have firehouse subs in your area you can buy their pickle buckets for $2 each and save a little money. My local Lowes charges $4.50 each! Plus they donate the money to charity.
elisa_Z5, You do know that sweet potatoes set roots and produce more potatoes from those roots if you let them sprawl?
drayven, Like others have said, peppers, cukes, melons, ETC. I don't have any now I disposed of them years ago after they fell apart and were unusable as cages.
The parts are still in use several places around the farm. I used them to repair fence, replace lost clips on my tractor, made hangers for storing stuff. I even used some pieces for a gas welding repair in a pinch.
I like the Christmas tree idea! I won't comment on Madonna!

I still use the heavy duty ones for the first 4-5' of growth on my maters. If I can get a pic, maybe I'll post what my caging/trellising contraption is now. All others are used up on my peppers-- great for peppers.
I even use them to cage my baby seedlings for all my brassicas et al to keep my dogs from trampling -- once they reach about a foot in height, I pull them off. I also use them to lay down over freshly sown seeds to keep the dogs from trampling there also. it's so much easier than fencing off with chicken/hog wire. Like others have mentioned, bush beans and cukes. I've even used them lying down and draping plastic over them to protect seedlings during downpours.
Kevin

I seem to have plenty of bees around here. Plenty of bumble bees, and I think someone nearby is keeping bees because I see a lot of honeybees too. I still hand pollinate my first few squash early on, until the bees find them. Later on there's so much bee activity it's not necessary for me.

I have gazillions of honey bees, Plus other bees. I think they are wild. I don't know how to tell the difference between wild and domestic honey bees.
I am pretty sure there are no beekeepers within miles of me.
There isn't a lot of commercial farming near me. The closest one that would use pesticides is about 1/2 mile away, usually corn for silage or some other type stuff for silage, it is a dairy farmers field.
I have a wheat field that joins my property but I haven't saw them spray anything and normally wheat doesn't have bug problems in my area.
I have a lot of things that attract them though, fruit trees, crimson and white clover. They love my figs, they get more than half of them.

In my experience, the worst thing cucumber beetles do is spread disease, which is what kills the plants. That's why I think you need to be aggressive in getting rid of them. I grow a variety that is supposed to be unattractive to them (Diva) and also spray with spinosad, an organic insecticide, as soon as I see them. The best control is probably row covers so they never touch your plants. I haven't figured out how to do that in a container.

Ohiofem, Actually, if they kill the seedlings, they don't even get going good. I would call the sudden appearance yesterday the first emergence which was so much later than usual that it caught me a bit off guard...just trying to warn the folks about them on seedlings.

My broccoli and cabbage got true leaves fairly quickly, but my brussels sprouts did seem to stay small a lot longer. I germinated the BS inside, then kept the containers outside on a sheltered porch until they were ready to transplant. Here I thought maybe not growing them inside under lights was keeping them small, but it sounds like they just grow a lot more slowly than other brassicas.
When I transplanted them outside ~3 weeks after sowing, they were pretty tiny, with only 1 set of true leaves. Now a month later, they are closing in on a foot tall and looking great. Our cooler-than-usual summer must be agreeing with them.
Kathy


Thanks for your reply. Let's assume that after a few days none recover....
would it be advisable to re-dig & re-sow in the same rows? Is carrot fly maggot infestation caused by the recent crop failure an issue?
I prefer to replant & have full rows of carrots rather than leave one surviving carrot every 10 inches.
I'd leave them alone, I'll bet they're fine.