24,795 Garden Web Discussions | Vegetable Gardening

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catherinet(5 IN)

Yeah, but they are food-grade. But mostly it's because I'm 65 with a lot of painful arthritis throughout my body and having them raised will allow me to continue gardening. I'm fortunate to be able to afford them, and they will keep my spirits up. I've been gardening for 40 years and I can't imagine not being able to.

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gumby_ct(CT it says Z5)

I understand. Gardening continues my therapy.

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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

Some variety of squash would be my guess. Maybe one of the buttercup varieties.

Dave

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Peter (6b SE NY)

Your plants look like they have some serious nutritional deficiencies to me IMO. Not sure which exactly offhand, maybe someone else will, but I suggest some balanced soluble fertilizer ASAP as a quick fix... work on that soil in the future.

Also watering every other day is probably too much water and can contribute to the problem.

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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

Cuke plant looks like it has a severe case of powdery mildew and maybe even spider mites - can't tell for sure about them from the pics. But given all the interveinal chlorosis they were nutrient deprived before the PM developed. That plant is likely not salvageable at this stage.

The yellowing on the tomato plants combined with their retarded development and the leaf roll indicates over-watering along with nutrient deprivation. Neither is of a size to begin bearing fruit.

So what, how much, and how often have you fed them?

Dave

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Jim's(6 East end of Long Island)

I just trimmed up three of my summer squash plants and they seem to be doing fine, plenty of new growth. If I am not mistaken, it actually looks like a spurt of new growth, actually.

Several of mine were so large that I just cut the leaf at the tip of the stem. I have read that they should be pruned back to the main trunk/branch, but I could not get in that far. I do not know if I did any damage to it by doing it that way, but after several days they all appear to be just fine.

For what it is worth, my zucchini plant covers an area that is at least a 6 x 6 square foot area on the ground, so you may have a lot more growth coming.

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naturegirl_2007 5B SW Michigan(5B SW Michigan)

If there is enough room, you can also gently push the leaves away from the non squash plants that need more room and hold the leaves in place with a few long sticks. I'm moving sticks around often to "steer" leaves into areas where they won't interfere with neighboring plants.

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theforgottenone1013(MI zone 5b/6a)

Ah, my estimate on the size was way off. :) And looking closer at the other stuff in the pic makes it a little more obvious. Still, I would harvest and replant for fall.

Rodney

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Peter (6b SE NY)

It got bigger!

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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

Agree with Peter. Many home canners just freeze their tomatoes whole in ziplock bags until they have enough to do one big canning session. Whether or not you want to core them first all depends on how you plan to make your sauce. Check out all the discussions about this over on the Harvest forum here - the canning and preserving forum.

Dave

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rich8150

Thanks all. It seems obvious and I figured as much but good to get some advice and confirmation from others. Y'all have a great weekend. :-)

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galinas(5B)

I never got sick from bacterial wilt affected cucumbers, and I usually eat them till they are still eatable, including smallest ones. But bacterial wilt sure affects the taste - they become less crunchy, more sweet and kind of viscous to my taste.

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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

If what you have is really BW then the pathogenic bacteria is systemic and in the fruit as well. I wouldn't eat them but it is your choice. If you have researched BW then you know there is an easy test you can do to determine if that is really what it is.

Squash plants can be affected by it but the odds heavily favor one of the more common squash problems instead.

If either plant recovers after watering or when "out of the sun" then it isn't BW.

Dave

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Marianne W (zone 10A)

You can pick them at any time. The rule with the Spanish tapas peppers is the longer they sit on the plant, the hotter they get. So, depending on how spicy you want them, either pick them right after they look edible size for mild or wait until they start blushing with color for hot.

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katyajini(z6 NYC)

Thank you Marianne. This hybrid of the original Padron pepper gets quite big, 7-8 inches as opposed to 2-3 inches (Padron). I am growing them side by side, as well as Shishito, it will be interesting to see how they compare with each other...

K.

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LoneJack Zn 6a, KC

I have heard of barking spiders but never heard of barking tree frogs. LOL

I need to get me a couple. They would be much cheaper to feed than my barking lab!

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zzackey(8b GA)

Thanks, Rodney!

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Peter (6b SE NY)

Krissy,

Her plant had squash vine borer (as evidenced by the above pic.) It was pulled out; it is no more.

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krissy Canto

Oh, didnt realize

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Peter (6b SE NY)

There are fast acting fertilizer organic options too. The big box stores carry them and even Scotts makes them now due to popular demand. Not that I am saying your plants need them....

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laceyvail(6A, WV)

They don't. And I use quality organics when I need it.

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tigrikt (Central NJ)(6B)

Cucumbers love humidity

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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

<You might want to check your sources in regard to your info: "Third, and most relevant to your info of "the plant stops growing...gets crinkled and dry looking...shows black spots" are not the symptoms of BW". Here is one of many quotes from university agricultural researchers. "Unfortunately, the disease doesn't take much time to progress, and soon the whole plant is wilted. After wilting, the entire plant, including fruit, leaves and vines, shrivels before dying." >

I don't understand as that is almost word for word what I said only you left off the last part of my comment. "With BW the plant remains green but collapses, wilts dramatically." That is the definitive symptom - collapse of the plant, usually while still green - not that it "stops growing..gets crinkled and dry looking".


But semantics aside, BW is easy enough to diagnose with the common stem cutting test for it.

Dave

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fusion_power

"Could sun be the big limiting factor?"

Not directly. Temperature is the most limiting factor for okra. I've seen okra at 80 degrees barely growing but sprouting half a dozen pods a week at 90 degrees. This is not to say sun exposure is unimportant, just that temperature is more likely to be the limiting factor. So long as okra has 6 or 7 hours of full sun each day, production will be reasonably good.

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sunrisemadness(7b)

Have trimmed Clemson Spineless okra leaves after harvesting each pod and have had no branching at all. Plants now about 4' tall and still producing with closer leaf nodes. Any advice appreciated. Temps in mid 90's and full afternoon sun. New leaves are noticeably smaller and lighter than earlier leaves.

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dhd47

The tomatoes got mulch with newspaper under it and the cucs got just mulch.

i didn't see any beetles on the plants but I did haveJapanese beetles on my roses this year. Those are way on the other side of the yard.

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daniel_nyc(7a)

I'd suggest fabric mulch.

Did you check the links in my previous post ?

Fungicide ?

Insect protection ?

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