23,594 Garden Web Discussions | Vegetable Gardening

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jean001a(Portland OR 7b)

Could be most anything when it comes from compost. As was said, very possible mixed parentage (hybrid seed which won't come true.).

    Bookmark   May 27, 2013 at 5:56PM
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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

Agree that it is most likely a cross of some kind or a hybrid throw back since it's coming from the compost pile.

Dave

    Bookmark   May 27, 2013 at 6:03PM
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kriswrite(zone 8)

I live where slugs and snails are ABUNDANT. Hand picking and either Sluggo or Cory's snail bait are really the only ways to go. Copper works, too, but if any bit of dirt, leaves, etc. that go over the copper will render it useless. And yep, you can eat slug/snail eaten leaves; just wash 'em first!

    Bookmark   May 27, 2013 at 2:54PM
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buenaventura43

Thank you. I will show all those responses to the family members so they will it .

    Bookmark   May 27, 2013 at 5:06PM
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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

It isn't Early Blight nor Late Blight nor even Southern Blight .

What you are seeing in merely environmental damage from the weather and the effects of the plant having been rootbound in its container.

Once you learn the causes and actual symptoms of the 3 different types of "blight" then you never have to panic. And you can learn much more about all of them over on the Tomatoes forum here.

Plus there are many pictures and info sheets available on all three as well as the other common tomato diseases available on the web and I linked one of the many resources below.

Dave

Here is a link that might be useful: TAMU - Tomato Problem Solver

    Bookmark   May 27, 2013 at 4:52PM
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planetes(7b (Cascadia - PNW))

Looks a bit like Septoria to me.. that's a fungal infection that the nightshade family is susceptible to (potatoes, tomatoes, peppers, etc)

    Bookmark   May 27, 2013 at 1:32AM
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annew21 (zone 7b NC)(7b NC)

Google "tomato spotted wilt virus". That's what it looks like to me. I believe this virus can infect potatoes as well.

    Bookmark   May 27, 2013 at 1:50PM
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dicot

Yeah, cutting it at the base was a bit severe. It might have kept producing new 'chokes at the axils if you just pruned the heads off. I'd just let it grow and fade on its own and then clean up.

    Bookmark   May 27, 2013 at 2:04AM
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sunnibel7 Md 7(7)

Wish I could help you more, but I've yet to have the wonderful problem you describe since none of my artichokes has made it through a winter yet. But here's a link to the UC Davis artichoke page. It's been a while since I read it, but maybe it will help you? Artichokes are perrenial there. Good luck!

Here is a link that might be useful: UC Davis Aritchoke Info

    Bookmark   May 27, 2013 at 11:05AM
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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

Winter squash is often harvested after first frost. Sometimes a light frost is needed to polish them up for harvesting. So if using the cover for season extension I'd think you can wait until just a few days before your frost date.

Of course you'll have some green fruit that will never ripen but that's normal.

Next year consider shorter DTM varieties or earlier planting under cover to get more fruit.

Dave

    Bookmark   May 27, 2013 at 11:05AM
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MKSinSA(8 (S Central TX))

Hmm, duplicate post I can't get rid of .. Fill In The Blank

This post was edited by MKSinSA on Sat, May 25, 13 at 21:48

    Bookmark   May 25, 2013 at 9:45PM
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HeyJude2012(10b/24 San Diego)

Oh my gosh, you are all so funny! I feel so much better now knowing I am not alone.

I went to the nursery yesterday to return a plant I wasn't happy with and came out much poorer. It was a trap. Easy returns but you're still going to pay! I have the stuff rolling around in the back of my truck. I'm hiding it from you-know-who. :)

Just to keep things straight, I really am not a hoarder. I just tend to get a little carried away periodically.

Many, many thanks to those in the military past and present.

I hope everyone has a wonderful Monday. It looks like its going to be great gardening/BBQ weather here today.

    Bookmark   May 27, 2013 at 10:27AM
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ceth_k(11)

@ farmerdill: your eggplants look great! These are my two eggplant and I wish they can bear fruits like yours!

    Bookmark   May 26, 2013 at 11:43PM
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farmerdill

They look great at this point. By harvest you should be able to post some great pics. My photos were from prior years. This is what this years crop appear right now. A trial variety of Japanese eggplant (Black Shine)

    Bookmark   May 27, 2013 at 8:21AM
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silverada

Sorry, I meant paygep had the likely answer. Pot size or feed isn't an issue at this stage of development, I would think.

    Bookmark   May 27, 2013 at 6:19AM
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pnbrown

I have never had much luck with sweet corn between it's very finicky growing habits (as compared to dent and flint cultivars) and animal pests eating the ears as they begin to ripen. Sweet-corn regions tend to have very good ground, ideal climate and extirpation of pests. No doubt though we will all continue to try.

    Bookmark   May 27, 2013 at 7:22AM
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ceth_k(11)

The cutest is the young Black Beauty eggplant, hands down.

    Bookmark   May 27, 2013 at 12:17AM
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Slimy_Okra(2b)

Fairy Tale eggplant. Actually, any minature eggplant that is not a single shade of purple.

    Bookmark   May 27, 2013 at 12:54AM
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drippy(7bAL)

Yeah, my lettuce has been great this year, too. So satisfying not to have to go out and buy a bag of the organic gourmet mix for $$$.

    Bookmark   May 26, 2013 at 10:32PM
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ceth_k(11)

Your lettuce beds look prolific rayinpenn! Wish you have the same success with your other cucurbit plants too.

    Bookmark   May 26, 2013 at 11:17PM
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nancyjane_gardener(Zone 8ish North of San Francisco in the "real" wine country)

I usually keep new plants that I have BOUGHT under a tree, or something shaded or protected for a day or so. Nancy

    Bookmark   May 26, 2013 at 10:45PM
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ceth_k(11)

Don't forget to harden them "gradually", it is the most important thing before they go outside for good. I see some Cucurbitaceae plants that you should give a bit of shade in the first few days they were put out.

    Bookmark   May 26, 2013 at 11:04PM
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glib(5.5)

PN, read these

Western Diseases: Their Emergence and Prevention, by Drs. Trowell and Burkitt
Nutrition and Physical Degeneration, by Dr. Weston Price
Health and the Rise of Civilization, by Dr. Mark Cohen
Food and Western Disease, by Dr. Staffan Lindeberg
Gun, germs, and steel, by Jared Diamond

If you want a shorter list, Diamond (brief history of the last 13,000 years) describes the transition to agriculture. Cohen does the best job of reviewing the archeological record. Lindenberg is of interest to you because he describes the lack of all diseases of civilization in a near vegetarian island (heavy smokers too, but they eat fish every day, and pork rarely).

    Bookmark   May 26, 2013 at 10:00PM
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glib(5.5)

Actually, if you do not want to fork the money, most of the work of Lindenberg is discussed in many older posts at Whole Health Source (tag: kitava). I have two copies of the Diamond book, which does not discuss diet directly, I consider it the most illuminating book I have ever read.

Cohen's work is the foundation of many websites discussing the paleo diet, although Dr Cordain is much more quoted. You can find Cordain on youtube nicely summarizing the evidence for humans as top predators. I am also very fond of the work of Weston Price, a dentist, his foundation has collected a lot of articles.

http://www.westonaprice.org

    Bookmark   May 26, 2013 at 10:09PM
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wertach zone 7-B SC

I pull unless they are too close to the others and could uproot them. Sometimes they grow back if you just trim.

Don't toss the thining's, they are great in salads and/or cooked!

    Bookmark   May 26, 2013 at 2:40PM
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ill_gardener(5B)

thanks wertach. and great tip.

So from the picture, are they ready for thinning or should I wait a few more days?

    Bookmark   May 26, 2013 at 8:49PM
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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

Sorry to disagree but properly grown pepper plants have a root system that is at least as big as the diameter of the top growth and usually as much as 2x the size of the top. The primary reason for using proper spacing is nutrient and moisture availability. Overly close plants are competing for both. The competition leads to stressed plants, increased BER, lower production, leaf drop, and disease and pest susceptibility.

Dave

    Bookmark   May 14, 2013 at 10:03AM
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Tiarella(z7a GA)

I don't know what zone you're in, but my tabascos in containers get about 4' tall by 3' wide.

    Bookmark   May 26, 2013 at 7:26PM
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