24,795 Garden Web Discussions | Vegetable Gardening

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yukkuri_kame(Sunset 19 / USDA 9)

same plant

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yukkuri_kame(Sunset 19 / USDA 9)

last photo

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theforgottenone1013(MI zone 5b/6a)

Well like I said, I haven't tried using tulle. I was just giving a suggestion based on old posts.

disappointed in row covers/will netting work for cabbage moths?
http://forums2.gardenweb.com/forums/load/cornucop/msg0422501923825.html

French Tulle Netting
http://forums2.gardenweb.com/forums/load/cornucop/msg0505305828412.html

Help me kill the Flea Beetles eating my Eggplants!
http://forums2.gardenweb.com/forums/load/cornucop/msg0620524021153.html

The last two links say that using tulle keeps out flea beetles.

Rodney

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seysonn(8a WA/HZ 1)

French or Nylon tulle comes in many shades of color and tightness.Tighter ones can keep all insects out, even mosquitoes. So you wouldn't want to cover cucurbita with it because you need pollinators.

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Tex_86

Thank you guys so much! I can deal with ugly potatoes! :)

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nc_crn

Next season try (or tell the dudes planting to try) scab resistant varieties...especially if lowering the pH isn't an option.

It won't 100% wipe out the issue, but it helps moderately to greatly lessen scab depending upon variety selection.

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theforgottenone1013(MI zone 5b/6a)

It's probably due to inconsistent watering or too much rain. Lots of veggies/fruits can have this problem.

Rodney

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Dommt(Montana)

We have had a dry summer, but I do have a sprinkler system that waters daily for 10 minutes or so. I just picked about a dozen this am and only 1 was cracked. We'll see.

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ltilton

You use those same planters for lots of crops, don't you?

Did you make them yourself?

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edweather(Zone 5a/b Central NY)

I've used them for potatoes, beans, peas, and cukes. They came with the house. Just cleaned them up a bit and painted them. They're pretty old and made of pressure treated wood. Very heavy, not sure I'd recommend them.

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jrslick (North Central Kansas, Zone 5B)

Tokyo Bekana?

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ceth_k(11)

@ jrslick : That is absolutely right! I eat this veggie all my life and still don't know it has a japanese name. Thank you very much jrslick!

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seysonn(8a WA/HZ 1)

In the southern zones , You have to plant them real early. Like in GA, I use to plant them 4 to 6 weeks before last frost and would dig them sometimes in july. That would like 110 days or so. Then you can also do a fall planting, Like late July.

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ltilton

Climate is a limitation, fersure. But then, it presents a challenge!

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theforgottenone1013(MI zone 5b/6a)

It probably is SVB. To really be sure, you need to look closely at the vine for holes and frass.

Rodney

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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

IME damage such as in your picture is more likely to be squash bugs rather than SVB. SVB damage kills the vine itself. Squash bug damage is more leaf oriented than vine oriented.

But it is easy enough to determine with close examination.

Dave

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laceyvail(6A, WV)

And for another example, yews are deadly poisonous to us in all their parts. Deer love em.

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albert_135(Sunset 2 or 3)

My wife puts hot peppers and garlic on everything she feeds me. Is she trying to poison the dear [sic] ? ed - 5/4/14

This post was edited by albert_135 on Thu, May 8, 14 at 17:47

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sunnibel7 Md 7(7)

Your okra plants sound just how mine look, except I have no okra yet. But suddenly there are a ton of flowers on many branchy ends, so we'll see.

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tishtoshnm Zone 6/NM

Honestly, seysonn, zone has little to do with it.

This is the first year I have begun to understand the potential of okra, which is nice because another couple of dudd years on it would have put it on my why bother list. Very few of my purple tomatillos are actually purple but they are growing well so it is nice to have a few successes. My season though has mainly been hot and dry, are temperatures have been exceeding the normal average and while our drought has improved a teensy bit, it is still ongoing.

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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

I don't see it much different than spraying rose pride on my mildew prone roses before they get powdery mildew. It's a lot easier to prevent it than to cure it.

It pays to first understand how something actually works.

It is a big difference is between treating or preventing an airborne fungus disease vs. killing a live pest.

Bt only works after it is eaten. It isn't a repellent, it isn't a contact pesticide. It has to be ingested, chewed up, swallowed. Plus once diluted it is only effective for a short period and in liquid form (to inject it) it will all just drain down to the base of the plant anyway.

So you'd be wasting most if not all of it on the off chance that some borer might just happen to enter the stem where the Bt was injected and just might come in contact with some it still active and just might happen to eat some of it.

Dave

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CaraRose

I still see no difference. I'm spraying the roses on the chance that mildew spores will land on it and infect the plant. The spray has a longer effective time than BT, obviously, but it's limited too, that's why I have to spray every 1-2 weeks (and failing to, I get mildew infestation like I did last year and beginning of this year when I got negligent about it).

Since at this point I'm positive my plants WILL get SVB. No matter how hard I search for eggs, I'm going to wind up with them. It's not a matter of if, but when, then at some point my weekly injection will overlap a point of time when they're too small for me to see obvious signs of them, but already inside eating, and kill them before they do too much harm.

I got to them with injections this year before they did enough damage to kill the plants, but they still did enough damage to hurt production and weaken the plants. Taking a preventative approach, I may be able to kill them before my plants are weakened. You do a series of injections up the entire vine, and the amount you inject is actually pretty low to fill the cavity in the vine. I only mix a cup full and after injecting six plants, I still have some left over that I usually spray onto my broccoli.

This post was edited by CaraRose on Fri, Sep 6, 13 at 12:18

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seysonn(8a WA/HZ 1)

They look yummy. I mean the chips. LOL

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edweather(Zone 5a/b Central NY)

w........she ran them through the processor then boiled/blanched them for about 2 minutes. Rinsed them completely, and dried them between paper towels before frying.

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DixieGardner(7b)

Those look like I see on my beans where leaves are being eaten, thought they were BAD??? What do their larvae look like? I'm going to be spraying soapy mix tomorrow on their larvae if no one stops me.

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ltilton

Stop. Put the spray away. Go to Google and look up ladybug larvae. They're very distinctive and one of the most useful insects for gardeners. In fact, there is a shortage of them lately. Don't spray them.

Bean beetles attack the plants as adults, not larvae. Look them up, too. There are a couple of varieties.

See those little black specks on your corn tassles? They're aphids. They probably aren't doing a lot of harm, but the ladybugs are eating them.

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nc_crn

Farming is an input in/profit out business more than how much the crop is expected to be worth on the open market for the most part.

On no-irrigation land, if corn isn't demanding a high enough price a lot of farmers will grow drought tolerant wheat (or another area specific crop) because the risk and cost of additional inputs for water/nutrients/weed control/etc aren't worth it...that hasn't been a huge issue lately with high corn prices (which are expected to decline slightly this year, btw). This is just a single example.

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sunnibel7 Md 7(7)

Also, it could be being grown as a cover crop, if it is sudangrass or sudangrass-sorghum hybrid. No-till people use it.

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catherinet(5 IN)

Nope, its a cluster of eggs. And we don't have any lizards here. Someone on the Allium forum said it was probably onion maggot eggs.

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jean001a(Portland OR 7b)

Not eggs of onion maggot. Try again.

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