23,594 Garden Web Discussions | Vegetable Gardening

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infectiousgardening

and final post today. Another shot of the infected area...

    Bookmark   May 17, 2013 at 6:57PM
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ltilton

I sure wouldn't pull those plants! They look fine. Except for that one strange thing.

    Bookmark   May 17, 2013 at 7:46PM
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kathyb912_in (5a/5b, Central IN)(5a/5b)

Uaskigyrl, you have a great attitude! All new gardeners make mistakes, so expecting them and having fun with them is the best way to learn. :)

Dave, you taught me something new. I had no idea about the roots of marigolds and sunflowers having a growth retardant affect. Does that apply in the main garden, too, or just containers? I don't generally companion plant, but I'd be curious how far away marigolds need to be planted from veggie crops to be "safe".

    Bookmark   May 17, 2013 at 3:47PM
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donnabaskets(Zone 8a, Central MS)

And me too. I knew about sunflowers, did not know about marigolds.....So maybe it was the marigolds in the early years that were causing less than outstanding tomatoes....maybe I double dug my beds for nothing? Either way, no more marigolds with tomatoes.

    Bookmark   May 17, 2013 at 6:32PM
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naturegirl_2007 5B SW Michigan(5B SW Michigan)

Compare planting depth, watering, and mulching for starters. Differences in them could be possibilities, especially planting depth.

    Bookmark   May 13, 2013 at 7:23AM
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woost2

It must be depth. Nothing was watered nor mulched. Just planted and covered and left for spring rains. This fall I'm going to have her at my side when planting!

    Bookmark   May 17, 2013 at 6:23PM
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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

Something to plant? No.

What you can do is add beneficial nematodes to the soil and let them take care of them but based on your previous post about this your problem is minimal you said - 8 worms in traps - so the cost of b. nems might not be justified. In such a small area as your garden using several potato traps should get most of them but be sure to check them daily.

If you have no objections to chemicals then this fall you can treat the bed well to kill them off before planting next.

Dave

Here is a link that might be useful: your previous post

    Bookmark   May 17, 2013 at 5:50PM
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jemsister(7)

Thanks loads, Dave! =)

    Bookmark   May 17, 2013 at 6:22PM
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howelbama(7 NJ)

Here is a link that may help you ID them.

Here is a link that might be useful: ID

    Bookmark   May 17, 2013 at 3:37PM
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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

See pics below. Note pic of flying ants vs. termites.

Here is a link that might be useful: Pics of migrating termites

    Bookmark   May 17, 2013 at 6:12PM
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AiliDeSpain(6a - Utah)

The cold front moves in tonight through Monday.*

    Bookmark   May 17, 2013 at 4:31PM
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lolauren(7a)

Oops. I misread the date on the OP. :)

    Bookmark   May 17, 2013 at 4:55PM
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eetchickn(7a)

The damage on the leaf in the posted picture looks like it was caused by a nip of cold. Mine got it worse than that and are now just fine. I would not worry if it were mine. Color overall looks great.

    Bookmark   May 15, 2013 at 8:19PM
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bobosaur

Glad to know!

The black part seems to be growing and spreading on the leaf and some of the other leaves is having tiny bit for dark parts on the edge as well.

edit: went out and took a quick picture

This post was edited by bobosaur on Fri, May 17, 13 at 15:20

    Bookmark   May 17, 2013 at 3:01PM
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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

Yeah just trench them in.

Dave

    Bookmark   May 17, 2013 at 1:05PM
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woohooman San Diego CA zone 10a

Harvesting should be done when heads are tight.

You'll know when it's a tad late when the florets start to separate. You'll then know for future harvests.

t-bird: give them some time -- most heading broccoli, in my experience, take about 80-90 days to harvest.

Kevin

    Bookmark   May 16, 2013 at 4:36PM
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laceyvail(6A, WV)

If your plants are still small and the heads are very small, then you bought plants that were root bound and the heads have "buttoned". You won't get big plants or big heads.

    Bookmark   May 17, 2013 at 6:22AM
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n2xjk

Yea, 40 is about the max for that space, maybe a few less is better. Trimming suckers is one of those topics people can discuss forever, but my opinion is leave them alone. Suckers often tastle, which is helpful in smaller plantings for pollination. Sometimes you even get some good ears on the bigger suckers.

Don't forget to side dress with a nitrogen rich fertilizer once or twice as the corn grows.

    Bookmark   May 16, 2013 at 10:57AM
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mckenziek(9CA)

Thanks! I'll plan on thinning to under 40 per box.

I'll leave the suckers alone.

I wasn't planning to fertilize, but I guess I will on your advice. Probably I will just add compost.

Thanks again!

--McKenzie

    Bookmark   May 17, 2013 at 12:21AM
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seysonn(8a WA/HZ 1)

If you do not have a good hill ,and if you get a lot of rain and wind, then vines would fall down and with continued rain they will get stem rot and die. This has happened to me before..

I would drive few stakes(about 2 feet high) here and there and run a twine around them to hold the vines up. I have just one row(about 10 hills this year) and I am thinking about doing it myself.

    Bookmark   May 16, 2013 at 8:48PM
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sweetquietplace(6 WNC Mtn.)

Seysonn...we're on the same wave length. That's exactly what I'm going to do. I have a 30ft. row of LaRattes. This is my first year growing them, so I started one in a container in January to see how it behaves. Now, fully mature, it has 4ft vines!

    Bookmark   May 16, 2013 at 9:06PM
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2ajsmama

Do they say bolt-resistant or heat tolerant? If so, should be OK, if not, well, plant a few just to try, if you have the space.

    Bookmark   May 15, 2013 at 5:09PM
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woohooman San Diego CA zone 10a

All depends -- brassicas are cool weather crops but most can be planted in the late summer here. That's why I always start them under lights indoors. I'm still trying to get a decent brussels to grow-- I think I finally figured it out though -- I think I need to start them in the dead of summer or... not try any longer

They're all different though -- what may be good for kale and collards may not be so good for the finicky cauli. I've even read recently that cold can cause bok choy to bolt.

Kevin

    Bookmark   May 16, 2013 at 4:47PM
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raistlyn

Ive just asked a similar question! They are eating the roots of my lettuce and a couple of herbs, but always the smaller ones.

They are the larvae of click beetles as far as ive found out online and can live for years in the soil before becoming adults. The adults dont cause as much damage as the larvae and ive not seen one yet this year.

    Bookmark   May 14, 2013 at 5:12PM
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jemsister(7)

We have click beetles *everywhere*, so I'd like to do something about them as well as the worms. Yesterday I checked my traps and found five worms on one carrot. I was not happy. Well, I was happy about the fact that they're dead now (squish), but I wasn't happy to find so many there. I found probably eight altogether checking all my traps, and that was only a day or two after checking them last time. (I should point out the fact that my "garden" is just a hobby garden. I planted a narrow flower bed and one raised bed that I made from an old dresser. So eight worms in what is roughly a 14 x

    Bookmark   May 16, 2013 at 1:14PM
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maps31(5 salt lake city, UT)

worm tea, is an amazing amendment
I too have some stunted brassicas that didnt get the TLC needed in the seed trays.
I usually find a shady spot in my garden for chard and kale.
happy digging

Maryann

    Bookmark   May 16, 2013 at 10:50AM
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seysonn(8a WA/HZ 1)

By just looking at your soil, it occurs to me that it has TOO MUCH chunky compost.

It is a well know fact that such organic matter ,poor in nutrients , will absorb most of what you are trying to feed to your plants. This will continue until that compost,chips are satured with nutrients . Then will come your plants turn to hav something to eat. In the future, as the coarse compost disintegrates, the nutriens will be released.

From the most recent photoes, it seems to me that your plans are getting a bit more nutrients. That means, up untill then the compost(or whatever the medium) was absorbing the food.

    Bookmark   May 16, 2013 at 12:36PM
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edweather(Zone 5a/b Central NY)

I gave up on the split in half method.......rotted way to quickly. So I've had a whole potato laying sideways buried about halfway in soil for 3 weeks. It has tons of roots but no shoots "yet."

    Bookmark   May 16, 2013 at 10:41AM
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another_buffalo(6)

I rooted some cuttings from a sweet potato vine last fall before the first frost, and planted them in the greenhouse for the winter. They didn't have enough light and crawled around all over the place losing most of the leaves except at the ends. Now I can cut those long vines into about 8 inch pieces and they root and sprout in in water in just a couple of days. I could have hundreds of sweetpotatos from this easy method and have been giving cuttings away right and left. The problem is that I have no idea what variety they are.

An acquaintance offered me some thornless blackberry transplants this past week. I scored two new friends and 8 beautiful thornless blackberry plants. I plan to intentionally root new plants once the berries are picked so that I can pass on those plants to others. Keep paying it forward is the way to go!

    Bookmark   May 16, 2013 at 11:41AM
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