23,948 Garden Web Discussions | Vegetable Gardening
I use nylon 5' by 15' netting, spaced the 3 metal fence posts about 7'3" apart, i drove them in with a small sledge hammer while standing on a 5 gallon bucket. I wrapped the excess netting around each end post to give it a better connection and make it taught. I secured it with 4'' plastic zip ties. The height of the hammered in posts are 62 and 1/2 inches, support the center with zip ties also. The post are heavy duty galvanized steels posts around 5 bucks each at home depot. This trellis is bomber and will support heavy crops. Will provide pic's soon!
Did try with just the hose originally, the next day they were back just as strong as they were. First soap treatment pretty much obliterated them, second was just because I apparently missed some and they were starting to multiply again. Since then I've watched carefully but haven't really seen them return.
It is also called CILANTRO.
The ones shown on the picture are perfect for harvesting. You can do that t by: Cutting (with knife ..) or pulling up.
In zone 10, they will grow tall , flower and produce seeds(coriander) , if you delay harvesting.
Cutting celery has mostly hollow stalks and it doesn't taste or smell like cilantro. Do go ahead and start using the stalks in everything. My plants stand through winter and reseed. Right now I have cutting celery plants of all ages in good harvesting condition.
Zucchini is difficult to store long, but I grate it into muffin tins and freeze, then remove the "muffins" and put into plastic bags for freezing. I use it in soups and homemade dog food, might even work for zucchini bread.
You've got a wonderful garden going.
Do you know what you have there? Bean Plataspid, Megacopta cribraria, aka Kudzu bug, a new (2009) invasive species that was apparently bought into Florida or Texas from Asia and has now moved into parts of Georgia (per the most recent alert on them), NC, and AL.
Your state ag extension service alert asks that they be reported to them by you if you haven't already done so so they can be tracked and infestations contained.
Sevin has not been found to be effective on them. So far, from what I have read, nothing has been found to be effective except a parasitic wasp, hand extermination and crop destruction. Supposedly the USDA is currently testing pesticides trying to find and effective one.
There is a great deal of info available on them on the web - none of it good - linked one info sheet below for you.
Personally I would pull up the crop and destroy as many of them as possible in the process after notifying the extension office for advice.
Dave
Here is a link that might be useful: New Invasive Pest
This Clemson pub suggests they might be melon aphids. Do you live in cotton country?
Here is a link that might be useful: Clemson cucurbit pests
To the OP - Did you look up thrips as I suggested above? Look at the picture of them in a cuke bloom that I linked below - scroll down to the big pic in the middle of the page.
Dave
Here is a link that might be useful: Thrips in cuke blooms
Aphids can do that but you'd see the aphids. Bean rust also has a similar pattern but that is the wrong color and there is no sign of the spores either.
I'd be inclined to just call it environmental damage from sun scald and wind burn. Especially if it is just the older leaves as in the pic and not the new growth.
Dave
Thank you, Dave. I have noticed some aphids recently, but not many... Still, I sprayed them down with neem just in case. Hopefully this amends the problem. I'm going to remove all the leaves with damage so I can more easily track if its spreading. Again, thanks! :)
Look at the picture on this blog (of bean plants):
http://wickhamfarmscsa.blogspot.com/2012_07_01_archive.html
Looks like the damage you have. Theirs is from deer. I can't imagine a rabbit getting up that high. If it is a rabbit you will need fencing with smaller spacing (see link below).
Bury it at a 90 degree angle because rabbits will dig under a fence. If it's deer you need a higher fence - though I would think the netting would work. Quite a conundrum.
Here is a link that might be useful: 48-in x 50-ft Green Plastic/Polyresin Perimeter Fence
I vote deer as well. You said that you never see deer, but in my experience they dine at night. You may never see them. If the ground is dry you won't see hoof prints, but if it's wet you may.
I would recommend that you attach the mesh to the fence posts (if you haven't already - I can't tell from the picture) and make sure it is tight. They are highly motivated and will find a way in if they can so you have to make it as difficult as possible. Good luck!
Have a fair number of radishes that have large area's (such as you show) chewed out of them and then the ants seem to be coming later. I don't think they are the ones who have done the first chomp. To compensate, I just sprinkle radish seed everywhere. That way, I still have some for me and the spoils are of no consequence. The great thing about radishes, growing between rows of all crops is, they serve to distract the pests from dinning on my more valued veg. They grow fast and like weeds, so there is always enough for me and the bugs all season.
Ants can definitely eat and ruin your veg. I am currently fighting ants that are eating the stems of my cauliflowers and before that, my choy sum. They seem to enjoy brassicas and have left the other veg alone.
Ive tried using DE but it didnt really help. Since i dont want to spray chemicals, im trying some ant bait now. I also poured boiling water along their paths - that worked well for a while.
On top of the granite peaks we have in Maine, 2ft trees try to grow out of half inch gaps of pure granite. I don't think that shows your black thumb per say, life just tries to survive.
I do not know what is going on in your prepared bed, pics would help , a description on how you prepared it ect. We all make mistakes.. mine usually involve leaving in a state that has surplus deer =)..
Silverkelt
What is the suggested fertilizer to get them going? I remember reading that Bone Meal is helpful for peppers to get a good start... ?
Assuming your soil is well amended prior to planting then any balanced, low N fertilizer works fine but only after the plants are established and you have first fruit set.
Bonemeal, while a good source of P, is very slow acting (like 6 months) so it needs to be applied well before planting. You wont\'t see any immediate benefits from it.
Dave
Hi, Sorry I'm in hockey heaven right now and forgot to check back in here.
Thanks for the updates on starting from seed sounds like next year I better give that a try.
Good to know about the fertilizer, I knew there was something about not over fertilizing them and just getting too much leaf growth.
Now I just hope for better weather than last year, it was so dry the animals kept beating me to the harvest.
Well until recently twice a week. But here the past month or so, all my stuff has started wilting unless I water the beds every other day and the containers everyday. As for how much, I don't really know, I don't' measure it and don't have an irrigation system or anything. I try to do long deep waterings rather than short passes that only wet the top inch or so.
If it helps my watermelon and summer squash get the same amounts of water as the butternut, and they seem to be doing fine. All three were also transpplanted out at similar times.
GM, I live in a really moist area (creek-side) about 100 miles west of you. I think I'll get the cages out of the barn for the summer. Thanks for the tip.
They work good for them although some varieties get pretty big and may need additional supports too.
Dave