23,948 Garden Web Discussions | Vegetable Gardening
Have a fair number of radishes that have large area's (such as you show) chewed out of them and then the ants seem to be coming later. I don't think they are the ones who have done the first chomp. To compensate, I just sprinkle radish seed everywhere. That way, I still have some for me and the spoils are of no consequence. The great thing about radishes, growing between rows of all crops is, they serve to distract the pests from dinning on my more valued veg. They grow fast and like weeds, so there is always enough for me and the bugs all season.
Ants can definitely eat and ruin your veg. I am currently fighting ants that are eating the stems of my cauliflowers and before that, my choy sum. They seem to enjoy brassicas and have left the other veg alone.
Ive tried using DE but it didnt really help. Since i dont want to spray chemicals, im trying some ant bait now. I also poured boiling water along their paths - that worked well for a while.
On top of the granite peaks we have in Maine, 2ft trees try to grow out of half inch gaps of pure granite. I don't think that shows your black thumb per say, life just tries to survive.
I do not know what is going on in your prepared bed, pics would help , a description on how you prepared it ect. We all make mistakes.. mine usually involve leaving in a state that has surplus deer =)..
Silverkelt
What is the suggested fertilizer to get them going? I remember reading that Bone Meal is helpful for peppers to get a good start... ?
Assuming your soil is well amended prior to planting then any balanced, low N fertilizer works fine but only after the plants are established and you have first fruit set.
Bonemeal, while a good source of P, is very slow acting (like 6 months) so it needs to be applied well before planting. You wont\'t see any immediate benefits from it.
Dave
Hi, Sorry I'm in hockey heaven right now and forgot to check back in here.
Thanks for the updates on starting from seed sounds like next year I better give that a try.
Good to know about the fertilizer, I knew there was something about not over fertilizing them and just getting too much leaf growth.
Now I just hope for better weather than last year, it was so dry the animals kept beating me to the harvest.
Well until recently twice a week. But here the past month or so, all my stuff has started wilting unless I water the beds every other day and the containers everyday. As for how much, I don't really know, I don't' measure it and don't have an irrigation system or anything. I try to do long deep waterings rather than short passes that only wet the top inch or so.
If it helps my watermelon and summer squash get the same amounts of water as the butternut, and they seem to be doing fine. All three were also transpplanted out at similar times.
I have never thought of shade cloth for peppers. We had probably our hottest spring and summer last year and my peppers were productive - bells, jalapenos. The lettuce bolted pretty quickly and I had them thickly mulched and kept them moist. So far, this year has been cool and wet- peppers and tomatoes not growing much, lettuce is doing great.
Dave
I shaded the peppers through the highest heat- they can get extra spicy otherwise. It seemed to work, the previous year without shade yielded some peppers that were too much for us! Lettuce is a spring and fall thing here, pretty good this spring down here, too.
we grow through winter, so ours take longer generally around 4 months, our trick si to get good plant growth before winter comes, we have that and have mulched them up higher.
by the looks of the plants we should get a good crop, found more spuds with sprouts in the fridge to replace those seedies that didn't grow. from the 1st planting, they will grow slower now that winter is here.
but a good haul you got in such a short time.
len
I prefer not to use the powerful insecticides recommended in that article. Would neem or spinosad be effective? As a spray and soil drench? Since I started growing Diva cucumbers, I haven't had significant problems with cucumber beetles. They are supposed to be less attractive to cucumber beetles than many other varieties. But I have seen them in my yard.
My first few peas harvested June 7; still quite small but at their sweetest.
The picture is of peas planted together late February, pre-sprouted. The bright green ones are Alaska, approaching 5 ft tall. The lower, darker green plants are Maestro which only grow to about 2 ft and look to be much more productive.
The photo (sorry it's sideways but I don't know how to change it on the forum) is from June 6th, a full 104 days from sowing. Later plantings made around March 25 are at almost the same stage; maybe 2-3 days behind after just 73 days, so the early start was almost no advantage. My catalogs claim normally 60-62 days to maturity.
I also have some very low-growing Novella in a double row and I'm going to see how well they hold themselves up with no staking. So far it looks as if they'll be fine. They have amazing numbers of aggressive-looking tendrils for hanging on to each other.
Weird stuff going on this season. The top 4 or 5 inches of several of my garden plants are breaking off overnight. Since I'm having a HUGE slug problem this year, I'm wondering if the raccoons are picking them off the plant and breaking the stem. Wish I had a nightvision camera.
I once found a horse hair worm in a puddle as a child and carefully carried it home to my Mom. She kindly put it in a jar and we looked it up together. What a trooper! Though I think she was mostly trying to make sure it wasn't some horrible parasite. Since I'm not an insect, we were good to go. She did make me release it out into the pond.
This may be what we've seen!
I agree, the flea beetle damage I see here is usually even a little more extensive and the tiny perfect holes. I've seen them on my radish leaves but not so much on my tomatoes. Maybe someone with a better eye for pest damage can say what it is?
I read it's a different species of FB that attacks tomato, potato, peppers than the brassicas. Looks like I have both. The ones I've seen on tomatoes move a little slower than I'm used to but still...
I posted to my BWF group and hope someone can confirm this is FB damage - I was worried it looked like gray spot, but if it's confined to the determinates which are isolated (by 1000ft) from main crop I can afford to wait and see. As wet as our weather has been the past few weeks (and forecast for more named storms this year) I may have to start a regular fungicide spray program.
Funny that it's the hybrids (Best Boy and Independence Day, with SuperSweet 100 being lesser affected, maybe due to hardening off location) that are the worst. Then again, the seed packets don't list any disease resistance.
Look at the picture on this blog (of bean plants):
http://wickhamfarmscsa.blogspot.com/2012_07_01_archive.html
Looks like the damage you have. Theirs is from deer. I can't imagine a rabbit getting up that high. If it is a rabbit you will need fencing with smaller spacing (see link below).
Bury it at a 90 degree angle because rabbits will dig under a fence. If it's deer you need a higher fence - though I would think the netting would work. Quite a conundrum.
Here is a link that might be useful: 48-in x 50-ft Green Plastic/Polyresin Perimeter Fence
I vote deer as well. You said that you never see deer, but in my experience they dine at night. You may never see them. If the ground is dry you won't see hoof prints, but if it's wet you may.
I would recommend that you attach the mesh to the fence posts (if you haven't already - I can't tell from the picture) and make sure it is tight. They are highly motivated and will find a way in if they can so you have to make it as difficult as possible. Good luck!