23,822 Garden Web Discussions | Vegetable Gardening

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planatus(6)

I think sunscald is the problem, and that the little drop out in the leaf could be due to a physical injury to the dead tissue. Be patient and the plant will outgrow these little difficulties.

    Bookmark     May 31, 2013 at 7:35AM
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annew21(7b NC)

Dave - I'm really interested in the US soil map but I can't read the legend because the resolution's not so good. Do you know another place to find a map like that?

    Bookmark     May 30, 2013 at 9:30PM
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pnbrown

Anne, check out the national soil survey site by the USDA.

    Bookmark     May 31, 2013 at 6:53AM
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seysonn(8a WA/HZ 1)

Those leaves look like being damaged by hail, heavy rain drops from trees, gutter, hit by solids falling from trees, roof..etc. An one more thing; This has happened while back and the leaves have grown since then and the gaps enlarged. (like continental shifts of earth !)

BTW, JMO

    Bookmark     May 30, 2013 at 11:24PM
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Newatthis22

Well, a three-four weeks back we did have some hail! And in central Iowa, we have had TONS of rain already. Record, I think I heard! That would be AWESOME if it was from the hail or rain.

I am not looking forward to bug hunting all that much!

    Bookmark     May 31, 2013 at 12:09AM
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planatus(6)

I have done the hairy vetch/tomato "system" described in the link below, and it worked well. When adolescent overwintered hairy vetch is cut off at the soil line, it dries into a knitted blanket that can be rolled up like a rug. I think it would work well with sweet corn, too.

Lessons learned: The hairy vetch must be taken down a certain way, by slicing off the plants at the crown. In a garden bed I could do this with the serrated edge of my big garden knife, then went back a few days later and got the ones I missed. Do not let hairy vetch mature! When allowed to establish as a perennial, the roots get huge and gnarly and are very very difficult to dig out. The photo shows hairy vetch at the sage when it should be cut.

So, I would recommend using hairy vetch only as a short-term cool season cover crops to preceed tomatoes. There are lots of warm-season cover crop to plant after spring tomatoes. For ex, widely spaced sudex (sterile sudan grass hybrid) makes a great living trellis for vining field peas.

Here is a link that might be useful: ARS Tomatoes and Hairy Vetch

    Bookmark     May 30, 2013 at 8:09AM
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CommoDog

Thanks for the info. I was under the impression that if the vetch did not mature that I would not realize the N in the soil. that is why I posted here. thanks

    Bookmark     May 30, 2013 at 11:05PM
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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

Split it into 2 parts, drill drain holes in the bottom and plant away. If you layer the seed potatoes then yes, you can get production in layers most of the way up - how many depends on the variety used. Check out the many previous discussions here about 'potatoes in container' for more details.

Dave

    Bookmark     May 30, 2013 at 7:45PM
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BarefootMama(9)

Is it possible to take it apart and turn it into two containers? I'd drill holes into them for drainage and you should be able to use it as containers for potatoes. Make sure if you want potatoes to grow as you hill them that you get a variety that is "indeterminate". There is a lot of debate as to whether this is possible in potatoes etc blah blah blah. All in all, make sure you research the variety you plant to make sure it's a good variety for what you want and preferably indeterminate. I've also heard the reds give more potatoes than others...

    Bookmark     May 30, 2013 at 10:53PM
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brittanyw(8a)

It really depends on the variety. For tomatoes and peppers, if you buy transplants, they should tell you the rough number days to harvest. That's very much an average, though, and much depends on your local conditions.

Typically sweet potatoes need roughly 3.5-4 months in the ground to get full size. But that depends on how hot it is. I've included a link below to a Sand Hill Preservation Center page on sweet potatoes. Everything under "Sweet Potato Growing Information" will help you determine when to plant and harvest and give some info on best SP growing conditions.

Here is a link that might be useful: Sand Hill Preservation Center

    Bookmark     May 30, 2013 at 9:19PM
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nc_crn

In Phoenix, you generally put plantings of toms/peppers in late/end February to early March...and/or July (they tend to do better for fall harvest). During the "hell" of summer you will probably need shade cloth. Small fruited (cherry/grape) tomatoes tend to do better there during the heat of the summer.

Sweet potatoes go in May/June.

    Bookmark     May 30, 2013 at 10:39PM
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mckenziek(9CA)

I guess magicmoira and I got sucked in to an old thread. It happens.

--McKenzie

    Bookmark     May 30, 2013 at 3:18PM
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nancyjane_gardener(Zone 8ish North of San Francisco in the "real" wine country)

A couple of things....Chicken wire will do NOTHING! It's too flimsy and will rot within a year or 2 in the ground. It is also too big of a gap! Those gophers are like mice! They can slip through a VERY small space!
Flooding is pretty useless. Those little suckers have a way to seal their tunnels just for that reason! They seal tem in several places throughout their tunnel maze.
As I said earlier and on another board, the noisemakers have kept my raised bed garden area gopher free (except when the batteries went dead) for close to 4 years now! The rest of my 1 1/4 acre property is just riddled with gophers! I'm just reporting what is working for me! Nancy
Good luck and happy gardening!

    Bookmark     May 30, 2013 at 9:25PM
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nancyjane_gardener(Zone 8ish North of San Francisco in the "real" wine country)

Squash happens! But I do agree that seems to be a very small pot for squash! Mine get to be 4-5 feet across!
You might want to re-plant either in the ground or in a very large container! I don't think it will thrive in that small container. Nancy

    Bookmark     May 30, 2013 at 8:48PM
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socks

You have a baby zucchini there! See? Just give it a couple days. You are over-thinking this; let Mother Nature take charge and you'll have zucchini.

    Bookmark     May 30, 2013 at 8:50PM
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farmerdill

A hoe! There are chemical herbicides that will kill nutsedge, but they not for use on sweetcorn. If you take out the plant and make sure you take out the tubers you will eventually bring it under control.

    Bookmark     May 30, 2013 at 8:26PM
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nc_crn

It takes a little while for transplants to get going...they have to establish new small/feeder roots. Depending on day/night temperatures it can take up to 2-3 weeks before you notice them growing well again.

    Bookmark     May 30, 2013 at 6:45PM
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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

And what has your weather been wherever you are? Cool and wet like many have been having equals no growth. Save the fertilizer for when the plants are established and showing growth. Only makes the problem worse right now.

Dave

    Bookmark     May 30, 2013 at 7:41PM
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nc_crn

It's usually wind or over-fertilization that causes mid-rib breakage.

Corn responds best to timed fertilization (and different types, NO3 vs NH4, depending on the time (though that's not crucial)).

That said, as long as it's just a few leaves it generally doesn't effect the plant too negatively unless the breakage is at the collar of the leaf.

In the future, time your fertilization efforts appropriate for your area (generally pre-planting/very-early and at silk emergence). Some areas may need/suggest side dressing during the season between these points. You can find suggestions from successful locals or your local extension agency.

    Bookmark     May 30, 2013 at 7:00PM
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susanzone5(z5NY)

Organic veggie fertilizer will burn tiny seedlings. Use a very diluted (1/4th strength) soluble fertilizer like Miracle Gro, once a week. Too much heat isn't good after germination. They like it around 65-70 degrees. 16 hours of light a day is enough and the lights should be 1" from the seedlings. I think you are over-loving your plants!

    Bookmark     May 30, 2013 at 4:18PM
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shaxhome

ltilton...This should answer your question

Here is a link that might be useful: Old Thread

    Bookmark     May 30, 2013 at 9:46AM
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ltilton

Thanks, shax.

    Bookmark     May 30, 2013 at 1:48PM
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Williev810

This is the first year I have ever had a garden so I am trying to learn as fast as I can.

My garden is 14' x 28', we just bought the house last year and the garden was already there. Last fall I poured about 5-6 bags of grass clippings into it and tilled everything together this spring. After tilling my neighbor mentioned I should use landscape fabric to handle the weeds which sounded like a good idea. Now I am not sure as I am learning more and more.

I used scotts 4' x 200' landscape fabric and covered the entire garden. I then cut holes out to plant all of my vegetables. I have corn, tomatoes, eggplant, squash, jalepenos, Strawberries, cucumbers, carrots, lettuce, and spinach.

Everything is growing very well but I don't know if the fabric is the best way to handle weeds. Do you think I should take it out and lay down a layer of Compost or mulch instead? Would this help the plants grow even better?

I didn't want to add mulch on top of the fabric because I don't want to have to deal with pulling it up when I want to till next year. Please let me know your thoughts, thank you in advance.

    Bookmark     May 30, 2013 at 12:10PM
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bart1(6/7 Northern VA)

I went from using landscaping fabric from the local garden center to something called Lumite from Shaw Fabrics (via a tip from Gardenweb) and I couldn't be happier.

The Lumite is woven strips of some kind of plastic and lasts for years. I plant my tomatoes between two 3-foot strips of Lumite and run a soaker hose between them.

I can only access my garden on the weekends so it saved me huge amounts of time (not) weeding.

This year, I'm using a 4-foot wide strip to plant my peppers and eggplants and basil in/under. I have 2 rows of holes about 14 inches in from the outside edge, again with soaker hoses underneath.

The best way to cut it is using a torch so it melts the ends so it doesn't unravel.

Here is a link that might be useful: Lumite

    Bookmark     May 30, 2013 at 1:47PM
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ediej1209(5 N Central OH)

Sluggo Plus it is. Thanks much!

Edie

    Bookmark     May 30, 2013 at 9:58AM
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another_buffalo(6)

After the discussion of roly bugs here, I went to the garden yesterday and put more yeast in the bowl. It rained last night, but the bowl did not overflow. There were a wide variety of insects already floating in the bowl, including roly poly and - bellieve it or not - a squash bug. It was the first I had seen of the season, so I took it out for closer inspection. Yup, squash bug. I inspected the squash plants and found a nest of eggs under one leaf. Its gone now! I checked all squash and found one more bug far away on a trombocini squash plant. I squashed him and found no eggs on those plants.

Just thinking that by eliminating the first generation of squash bugs, what a difference that could possibly make on the season. I'll be on close watch now and will likely add more bowls of yeast in all areas where there are squash plants.

    Bookmark     May 30, 2013 at 1:23PM
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